Oil "weights" do not mix, you pump 15-40 for a while then yop pump 60 for a while. Old fork oil trick, 30% 70wt 70% 30wt, the 30 goes thru fast and then slows for the 70. ANYWAY, the bypass at the filter bypasses the filter if it gets clogged.

Nope, the only oil valve in the motor is where the filter screws on. Did you warm the engine up good? Mine does that too while it's cold, 20-50wt

I ordered the remote dual filter mount kit, but im still worried, I definitely dont wanna hurt the engine. What should I try?

Hope I didn't miss this but the "simple test is to screw in a manual guage (to proof out) 90 in a bbc "cold" usually drops to 70 warm depending on oil and clearance . We use Torco 20 50 (dinosuar oil) 

im gonna probably get a mechanical gauge tomorrow and test it after an oil change. I got the temp up to about 160 on the hose and when it would come down to an idle it would be about 90PSI but anything above idle pegs the gauge and the gauge goes to 100PSI.

I replied to your PM before reading this thread, so a couple of the questions I asked were answered here 

Let us know what happens after the oil change.

I would NOT screw with a dual remote on a boat.

I'm running one Terry, and it dropped my oil pressure down to reasonable numbers as well, without having to change up on what oil I'm using?  I get it that it's more to have leaks with, and vibration and chit is a BEAR on a boat (Especially mine), but it worked, lol. Why don't you like them? and in my case, have you ever tried to find a filter that'll clear the stringer on a Ford??
(At least in the Moo boat, the Blue one clears a standard filter easily, ask Jeremy, lol he's changing it as we speak).

I love that guy, fixing everything and finding things on my boat, guess he had an excursion today with a bad dizzy cap and rotor and never got off the dock! (RJ's been running the hell outta that thing for weeks now with no issues, lol) Good thing it was in the front I guess, lol.......anyway......

Mounting location is everything on them. Mine is on my custom, one-off, never to be duplicated (because noone in their right mind would ever do it) engine sheild. Which is STILL not upholstered, guess I need to get off my ass and get it done, lol.

FWIW though, I also had oil pressure readings almost identical to Andy's, and yeah, completely fresh engine. (Was a treat taking the filter off when I installed the remotes, lemme tell you, that thing was SWOLLEN solid to the block. 2' pipe wrench!)

Ray

Did he say sand?........................dude

Yeah he did, but in the water passages, Terry. It's in his other thread that I'm too tired and drunk to look for at the moment, lol.

Seems like he did a good job prepping the short block for the new heads and cam. And the Cam break in, engine install he had Omar there to help him. Proly to drink more beer, but still, Omar'd tell him he was focking up on something I would bet.

Ray

Lol yeah it is! I told Andy on the phone I was running VR1 straight 50 in the blue one, looks like he's going another route, which is fine, and to order the remote kit and if he didn't need it he could always return it. But it solved the Moo's excessive pressure problem. It went from a buried needle at idle to 70-80 PSI no matter the temp or rpm. I'm running basically the same pump he is, just the ferd version, M84.

I think the VR1 50 is what Jeremy is putting back in mine, (He found it was milkshaking a little more than I had ever seen, time for the new intake and carb, as I'm betting the water's getting in from the intake.)

Ray

So you have a bone stock 454 with a high volume pump and two quarts of 60-wt oil added to your 15w-40?  Dude, your bypass IS blowing. Your 60-wt oil coctail is way too thick for the OEM clearances combined with HV pump.

Drop the oil and filter and go with 10w-40.

LO

X2, the oil pump bypass cannot bypass more than about 15% of its capable volume, you may as well have put some gear oil in that badboy, I like racing 30w or 40w max for a break in type scenario. (Thinner, not thicker)

Most oil pump bypasses use a 100#spring. FWIW, they can get stuck, I had an LS7 that loved to blow an oil filter off the block once in a while, a new oil pump fixed the problem. 

GT 

hey guys, lol omar cruised over the other day and we got the engine nice and warm and drained the oil. The filter was another story lol I broke my oil filter wrench, rounded off the nut on the bottom of the K&N filter and ended up having to pound the biggest philips screw driver thru it a few times to get it off. I then refilled it with the VR1 straight 50 weight ( i couldn't for the life of me find VR1 straight 30 or 40, and I checked all over the place). WHen I ran the screw driver thru the filter it came out all nice and nasty lol. The oil coming out of the holes that I made in the filter was signifigantly darker than the oil that came out the drain plug. When I got her fired back up I still had the really high pressure, but it seemed to start coming down more than it did before, I saw it at about 90 at about 2k rpms which is alot better than it was before. The remote setup that I ordered should be here on tues but Im still not sure if i even want to install it until I get these pressures down. I wanted to try and run straight 40 weight to see if that helped but omar was telling me that his boat had the same problem pegging the gauge and what not but once he dropped it int he water and ran it around for a bit the pressure came down. Keep in mind that I got the engine up to about 160 and the pressure was still at 90. Any ideas guys?

hey guys, lol omar cruised over the other day and we got the engine nice and warm and drained the oil. The filter was another story lol I broke my oil filter wrench, rounded off the nut on the bottom of the K&N filter and ended up having to pound the biggest philips screw driver thru it a few times to get it off. I then refilled it with the VR1 straight 50 weight ( i couldn't for the life of me find VR1 straight 30 or 40, and I checked all over the place). WHen I ran the screw driver thru the filter it came out all nice and nasty lol. The oil coming out of the holes that I made in the filter was signifigantly darker than the oil that came out the drain plug. When I got her fired back up I still had the really high pressure, but it seemed to start coming down more than it did before, I saw it at about 90 at about 2k rpms which is alot better than it was before. The remote setup that I ordered should be here on tues but Im still not sure if i even want to install it until I get these pressures down. I wanted to try and run straight 40 weight to see if that helped but omar was telling me that his boat had the same problem pegging the gauge and what not but once he dropped it int he water and ran it around for a bit the pressure came down. Keep in mind that I got the engine up to about 160 and the pressure was still at 90. Any ideas guys?

Did you check it with a mechanical to double check your #'s?  

It sounds to me like you have a contamination issue if the oil filter held that much goo...

The 90# of pressure is about right for 50wt oil IMHO....You would probably see about 70 with 40wt...

GT