i hate it when you start thinking

dont open up that motor that runs great

get a block crank and rods from lakes only and send it to dave at a&d open your wallet start spending money

450hp is easy with a 460, no need to stoke. the most important part is going to be the bottom end staying together..... (daves job )

let me know if i can help.

get block crank, rods and pistons for the c9's and send to dave

Remember...U do not need to spend alot of $$.
2. Focus on  CID.   why 429 
3. Have sht checked out & make sure u have a sound foundation....It can be in-expensive.(based on your goals).


I agree with Ralph on this....

I think you made a good choice on the 460.  I had a 1970 429 in my cv 23 for 2 years
before it broke a rod.   It was a stock short block from the junk yard with 21000 miles.

I heard the rumors they liked to break rods but I never ran over 4600 rpms so I went
with it.  I paid $50.00 for it, how times change....

Thing only ran like 30 minutes after all the guy put into it.

Thats because the boat was pissed off it was painted like a cow, it just could'nt go on any longer! 

Josh, 450 should be very do able with a 460 (even for a ford). like Ray said you have some nice parts that will transfer over to a 460, I think you are already further along then you may think.

A 429 will run in a jet boat but between a 429 and a 460 I'll take the 460 almost every time, especially if you have an A impeller.

The main issue with the 429 is that there is only one set of forged shelf pistons available for them, the TRW/Speed-Pro L2366. Those pistons and D3's put you at about 8.75:1 c/r, and C9's will put you at about 10.5:1 c/r. They also weigh 1000+ grams with the pin.

If you switch to a 460 crankshaft (uses your same rods) you will have dozens of pistons options in dish, flat top, dome, etc. A 460 crank is the cheapest "+31 cubic inch stroker crank" out there for you, and you can run compression ratios pretty much wherever you want, from 8.5:1 to 13:1 with readily available shelf pistons. And 450hp is a walk in the park with these engines.

I have to agree that taking apart a good running engine is not always the greatest idea. Perhaps it might be better to keep it as a spare and build another longblock and can transfer the bolt-ons (pan, induction, distributor, exh, etc) between the two. Sounds like you already have some C9 heads. I have blocks cranks rods, heads, etc, stock, modified, if you want anything. Feel free to call.

LO

p.s.: If you want more power out of your current engine, you might swap the D3VE's out for the C9VE's (if that's your current combo). There is more to this than just the swap (valve train) but if you are considering it I'll get into greater detail.

leave your god damn motor alone!

if you want to build something bigger/better/faster....start from scratch. youre better off that way if you dont finish before next spring, you still have a running motor.

YA! keep asking questions josh, im taking notes! i got to do this too....

Nordie you wwont be disappointed

Dang another frickin homo

According to a pic I recently saw on here, '76 apparently knows his way around a crank, uses both hands pretty effectively, got the face into the action, even from an office chair pretty readily, soooo who's gaying up the thread?  Also seems to have a clown fetish, I dunno................

I think I've figured out the Nancy Boy thing, but will wait until everyone else catches it, lol.

Ray

Mark, we're just ridin yah. HARD! YES!, lol. Could be more serious, like if Omar was in on it, THEN I'd worry.

I think it might be time to bring back the way SCJB looked on April fools a while back. Some of these guys might feel a little more at home 

ok back on topic...

for now im on the hunt for block...crank...rods...pistons...bearin gs...basically a shortblock correct?

shortblock, correct