how do you guys break in a cam. i should be doing this this weekend as long as all goes as planned. so i am wondering should i hook up water to my motor and run a dry pump for a while to break in the cam.

or do i fire it up set the timing then take it to the water for a cam run.

Make sure you run some break-in additive! And if you have a ten quart pan use two bottles!

I'm sure this won't be the end of this thread but the last couple edelbrock cams I've put in came with some red moly lube, that I thought was suposed to be drained out (with oil change) after 30 min run in. Also I thought the idea was to vary the r's between 2000 and 2500 r's, for 25 minutes. I'd pull the drive line and do it in the driveway.

Break in additive , better safe than sorry! And itis only 10 or 12 bucks a bottle , cheap insurance if you ask me.

i was told by the engine builder to us a diesel oil like rotella and just run it for 20 min at about 2k. how does this sound to you guys. he said nothing of a break in additive.

Thats what my engine builder did and I lost the cam.  Comp 280H FYI.  The second time around he put the additive in it.  (We were the ones who informed him that the additive must be used or it will void the warrenty on the cam.

If you do not mind, who built your engine?

I used a TON of molly lube, primed the oil pump, used Rotella oil and disconnected the driveline.  Ran it for 25-30 mins @ 2000 RPM's with a few bursts to 2500-3000.  I used the springs that came with the cams, single for 1 and double for second.  All went well.  I would use the additive next time just because I believe you can't be too careful.  My cam builder (Clay Smith) said Rotella was not good enough and recommended a VR-1 50wt (Not for Street Use) oil that he carries. 

Its the zinc that is gone in oil.Vr 1 and sweepco still has zinc and some diesel oil but they are cutting back too.Zinc prevents scuffing on the lobes.Use the comp oil additive at every oil change.I think Joe Gibbs has oil too with zinc.Roller motors dont need zinc and thats what all the new cars have now.Guess it cheaper to produce the oil without it.

Its the zinc that is gone in oil.Vr 1 and sweepco still has zinc and some diesel oil but they are cutting back too.Zinc prevents scuffing on the lobes.Use the comp oil additive at every oil change.I think Joe Gibbs has oil too with zinc.Roller motors dont need zinc and thats what all the new cars have now.Guess it cheaper to produce the oil without it.

Vami your right ,most all the oils we grew up with have had the "additive pkgs" (zinc, moly etc)  removed to get them "competetive' for sales in pep boys CSK etc  go for the good high dollar stuff (joe gibbs ,royal purple ,red line etc) you'll never regret it

I bet that would leave your ears ringing for a little while 

Yup and someone called the cops too. 
T.J.

There is an azzhole in every neighborhood (but the ones who call the cops probably say that about us who start our boats)

i have to pull the motor half way out to get the drive line off.
so i plan on running rotella with additive
disconnecting the drive line and run for 20 mins at 2k to 2500rpm.
set timing while doing cam break in.
change oil and head to the river.

does this sound ok to you guys.

Sds good ,this is best done with a "helper" (GF or buddy) to "man" the hose , get out some basic tools (timing lite dizzy wrench ,screw driver etc ,monitor the temp and oil pressure watch for leaks etc use your watch or cell phone to mark time ,don't scrimp on the time factor  (20 min drags on) if you have to abort for something start the process over . make sure the fuel tanks are full ,boat is level side to side and bow up slightly  NEVER turn the hose on till the engine starts . It does hurt to fire the motor for a few sec's prior to the breakin to make sure it will start and idle prior to. And we always pre fill the block with h2o ahead of time (thru hulls we disconnect the riser hoses to prefill ,headers we pinch or shut off the header water) Good luck! Tom

You definately want to vary the RPM's like Tofast says. The cam gets oiled from the splash off of the crank, and you don't want to leave a section dry (or lightly oiled) during the break in. You want to run GM EoS in very liberal amounts, and no long cranking. Make sure that thing will start when you turn the key.

If you are running a Chevy, this is especially important. Chevy's tend to eat cams do to thier design anyway, startup proceedure is really important.

The machine shop/engine builder I go to recommends and uses Joe Gibbs Racing oil for break-in.  I mix in a quart on every oil change.  For "off-road" use only. 

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/br.html

Cheers, Mark