Been a while sice Ive posted. I finally finished the romperstomper and took it out for the first run at the Top papp memorial. It ran great. Since I lost the tune I had on the dyno I had to start all over on the water because I didnt want to take the motor back out. I got a pretty good base tune but it still needs a lot more tunning.  When I rigged this boat I spared no expense on the cooling system and fuel system using all an hoses and hose ends. My first question is after about 6 to 8 high speed laps around elsonore one fuel tank ran dry and the other was about half full the passenger side ran out first. the boat would not run with one tank empty? good thing I was close to the dock when it ran out. so I refilled both tanks and boat fired right up. shortly after at a 5 to 10 mph speed the the driver side tank was over flowing and dumping fuel out the cap. I know why this is happening kind of. My fuel system is rigged as follows. 2 12 gal tanks with -8 bungs welded at the rear bottom of the tanks. both fuel lines go from the rear of the tanks to a - 8 y block mounted above the hand hole cover above the pump in the rear of the boat. from there 1 -8 hose routes to the passenger side rear of engine block to a water fuel seperater then up the block half way to a airamotive fuel filter then to the airamotive fuel pump mounted on the hull directly behind the engine then up to the fuel rail on the tunnel ram. on the other side of the intake is the return where the regulater is mounted then to a -6 y block and 2 -6 hoses returning to each tank that was sopposed to return fuel evenly to both tanks. I think what is going on could be a few things one since the fuel pump is in fact closer to the passenger tank it may draw fuel easyier from that tank. I think my return set up is not working as planned sending fuel un evenly to the 2 tanks. I have no idea why. I want to know if it is possible to instead of running 2 return lines to each tank if it would work if i ran a y block right before the fuel pump returning the fuel from the fuel rail directly back to the fuel pump eliminating my fuel return issues. I'm worried this may cause a issue at low speeds or at idle because it will have more fuel returning than the engine will be using. besides a rise in fuel pressure what other things would i expect to happen? have any of you guys had this issue with efi, or even having issues with your fuel tanks not draining evenly. If any of you do have efi which I know is rare in a boat like these please let me know how you rigged your set up or any issues you had.

question # 2. Damm msd has to have a full 14 volts to run rite. Im having issues with this as well. I have 2 gold top duralast batteries on each side of the rear of the boat wired together with a perko switch there rigged to work as one but I can switch to run 1 to another if I want but cant because of my set up. there is too much wiring to run the boat on just one. I recently replaced with the motor a complete new wire harness from hardin marine. my question is. Is 1 altenater enough to power 2 good size batteries. I'm going to pull it off the boat and have it rebuilt to put out more power I hope this works. this efi set up draws a ton of power just the fuel pump alone will drain the batt fast if left on. do you guys have any issues with this sort of thing what is your adivice. I going for my second tryal next weekend I was hoping some of you experts can steer me in a time saving direction.

                                                           Thank You for you help and bare with my spelling
                                                                       Jimmy..

The fuel issue sounds like typical jet boat fuel shit. Make sure your hoses from your tanks are the EXACT same length from between the Y and the tanks. Otherwise it will always pull from the closest tank first. As to why the one tank is filling from the other? I couldn't tell you. Someone else will have to pipe up for the MSD issues.

bigger pictures

Could you just run one fuel bypass with a selector switch into which tank it goes into?

And what did you use to tune the fuel map at the dyno, your personal lab top?

Used a close friend of mine's lap top. of course his lap top crashed after I lost the tune so kissed it good bye. If i told you guys the bad luck I've had with this project and everything I've done twice or three times it would probably crash this site before you could read it. That's what type of luck I have with this boat. Now I'm using my brothers lap top and yes were saving each tune onto a flash drive to prevent that costly and time consuming error again. learn the hard way you learn more but it really sucks!

whats up bro when are you going out for testing i will meet you out there

ROMP:
  I posted on this site how to modify my tanks for large pickups and in my 8-71 EFI build up I showed the cross-over balance hose. I will try and find the links later. Here is what I did.

I put large pickups (-12AN bungs with huge tubes on top of the tanks) in both tanks but only use ONE to feed the Aeromotive pump. I return to only ONE tank (-6AN) from the regulator. However, I have a balance cross over hose linking the 2 tanks together at the bottom of each tank. This makes the whole system act as one tank. I have never had a problem. I have even ran them down to ¼ of a tank and it was good. I now only fill up one tank at the gas pump and the balance hose (-12AN) takes care of filling both tanks evenly. Also I posted here where I made separate vents for the tanks because I do not trust the vented caps either. I think I have had these tanks out 4 times to weld/modify  them. Welding on these tanks is a little scary. Proper prep and procedure are a must.

T.J.

Man I wish I lived out West.

You ain't the only one! You could really make a lot of people's lives easier if you were out here. You ever think of doing an e-commerce type shop?

could you use 1 of these



http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitems/fuel-tank-selector-valves/light-truck-6-port-motor-driven-valve?&forward=1

item#270495872752 on Ebay $59.03
 



 
 

You do not need any sort of selector valve if you are running a balance hose set up. Yes gravity will even out the 2 tanks making them act as one. That is the main reason why I did this. Plus it makes filling the boat up easy cause only filler has to be filled.

Sequential (easier to tune and idle vs batch)  MSD 7AL with the wiz bang MSD coil.A MSD Pro-billet Dist. that is modified for a cam-sync signal. I am swapping pulleys (going 10% over) and dyno tuning it in about a month or so. I know a good EFI tuner that is well known everywhere.
 
I have not dyno’ed it yet so last season I ran conservative. 6psi boost and AA stainless impeller. Don’t really know that top speed because I can’t see shit. My eyes water too much and afraid to stay in it, got to get better goggles, and yes I have a kill to and wear my safety vest. All I know I sawed off 2 bigger cube blower boats (Daytona and a Sleek) out of the hole and they never caught me. One was a real shit talker to his buddies too and I sawed him off in front of a sand bar where his buddies were watching.

Nice love to hear you smoke on some shit talkers. I was going to run a pro billet but the fast duel sync just had came out so I went with it. I'm running a bronze a-b and it seems like its not enough. I don't have my top end tuned completely but it feels like it will easily rev to 8000 rpms. that's with out the 300 shot of nitrous. I may have to get a bigger impeller. I wounder how our boats would do in a race TJS. My first dyno tune put out 1020 hp at around 6700 on nitrous and 110 vp. about 750 hp without. I don't think it was that great of a tune tho. My brother is really good with tunning efi by expierance and trial and error. he's done electromotive hall-tec and now fast. he's gonna run excel on his 69 camaro 383 so he will soon be familiar with excel. I love and hate efi because there is so much you can adjust to really dial your motor in but it takes time to see what you motor likes, there all different.

I would think that in order for gravity to balance the tanks, the cross over hose would have to connect at the bottom of the tanks. Although I like the idea of filling both tanks from one side, wouldn't that create a safety problem--filling the bilge with fuel (emptying both tanks) if there was a break in the line? I thought that is the reason that newer tanks feed from the top. I could see some safety inspection and/or insurance issues with this setup.

We also found that the aeromotive high pressure fuel pump we used was much better at pushing than it was at sucking. Had to blow into the fills to help prime the pump a couple of times.

I think Nordie has some experience with this same phenomenon as well, on his carb'd deal at the AVI.

Ray

TJS, I'm with Skip, you NEED to move out here somewheres.<~~Agreed

Ray this is true i know my tanks have some very serious issues that need to be addressed....my port tank leaks from the sending unit when tank is full....my starbord tank leaks from the fill hose that goes to the tank, and also has a pin hole somewhere in the bottom...tanks are coming out this weekend when the weather lets up, and i need to find a welder....it is true that the tanks definately vent differently...my port tank loses 2-3psi on the fuel pressure guage vs the starbord tank....my plan is to have the tanks rewelded and a new sending unit that will work with the guage, and new hoses and fuel fills...it will be inexpensive vs a human life, and save me some gas