Just curious why no one is running a slosh box?
Take a bottom tap from each tank on put it to a tank (very similar to a puke tank) and pull the fuel from it with the fuel pump, it keeps a small amount of head pressure on the pump and almost eliminates the equal fuel level problem, we had two 24 gallon tanks in the beer can and had a setup like this, the beauty of it was you could put two fuel pumps on the surge tank and a switch in the dash to flip if one died...I really wish I had some pictures of it.

As far as trying to replicate a tune on an engine, I highly recommend a diary, as things get changed, mark it down...
Some things we used to log;
-tongue weight (seems weird, but the engine would move to and fro on a regular basis to change the center of gravity)
-total weight full and empty of fuel also how it effected the COG.
-ignition timing, base and total (we had two distributors, one as a spare)
-jet sizes for different altitudes
-thermostat washer and temp it runs with it (we used a restrictor washer in the t-stat hole to control the water/oil temp ratio)
-compression numbers (checked at the end of each day)
-battery voltage while cranking (seems odd, but will point to a problem if it changes)
-header outlet temp at WOT (had an infra red thermometer in the boat at all times)
-oil pressure and temp at speed and idle
-spark plug gap and heat range (seems dumb, but when three or four people work on the boat, it good info)
-WOT RPM (you would be surprised how much this can fluctuate)
-cooling water pressure in the block (almost 15# every time we checked it)
-carburetor spacer (we would run from 3/4" all the way to 1 1/2")
-timing set indexing (another OCD thing

)
I am sure there are more, but you get the idea....
We marked everything with wrecking yard paint pens, we could literally change the distributor with a 9/16" wrench and not have to time it....

Two fuel pumps, two ignition boxes, two starter motors, two batteries.....You can't win a race if it don't start..

GT