deck flex

« **on:** November 30, 2012, 01:01:16 PM »

I bought this 1985 Bahner this past June...its been taken good care of by the original owner, my only concern is the deck flexes.

I had a 1978 Rebelcraft 18' as my last boat and could hold a dance on that deck... this one no way. I have not been able to get a lot of info on the web concerning this issue and was wondering if anyone had any info regarding Bahner hulls. It does not look as if there is anything missing from under the dash / bow. Any thoughts??

Thanks for the consideration...

« **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2012, 06:20:02 PM »

I have an 84 Bahner and under my dash there are two pieces of plywood that are bolted to the stringers and run the rest of the length of the stringers up into the bow. One of them came loose once and I sure noticed the deck flex right away. I can take pictures of them if you would like.

« **Reply #2 on:** December 01, 2012, 09:51:41 AM »

My '83 bahner has a pretty flexy deck. Both of the ribs are gone. I just make a point to stay close to edge if i go on it.

« **Reply #3 on:** December 02, 2012, 12:47:33 AM »

Run it.

Sent from DROID RAZR MAXX HD

« **Reply #4 on:** December 04, 2012, 01:31:11 PM »

Quote from: riptide84 on November 30, 2012, 06:20:02 PM

I have an 84 Bahner and under my dash there are two pieces of plywood that are bolted to the stringers and run the rest of the length of the stringers up into the bow. One of them came loose once and I sure noticed the deck flex right away. I can take pictures of them if you would like.

That would be cool. if there is 'something missing' id like to know...

Thanks

« **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2012, 09:42:10 PM »

Hope these help...Let me know

« **Reply #6 on:** December 14, 2012, 07:30:00 AM »

THX for the phots Rip....

mine has a floor that runs all the way to the nose...stringers can't be seen unless you open the door to the ski locker, but I can see how that would stiffen the deck considerably.

I can't see where there was any past repairs or holes where they may have been attached at some point like on yours, so im thinking it did not come with them.... there is no stress cracks or crazing on any of the deck surfaces, so it may just be " what it is". In the meantime, i'll stay to the sides if I need to go on the deck.

THX again for the photos

« **Reply #7 on:** December 14, 2012, 09:34:34 AM »

skip all the nonsense with bolting or screwing things to the stringers... glass in a bulkhead. its really the only way to tie in everything.

measure and cut a 3/4" plywood piece

tab it in with fiberglass (if you can paint, you can glass...) all the way around.

slap some carpet over it. it'll make a *HUUUUGE* difference in your deck and how your boat rides. its simple and easy to do, you'll have somewhere to install some speakers if you want, and it'll keep all the crap under the deck from constantly flying out back at you.

« **Reply #8 on:** December 14, 2012, 09:51:53 AM »

anytime Muff

Ka0tyk- That is the route I would go too. It looks really clean and contains everything. It gets old trying to hold jackets and other crap with one foot and trying to drive at the same time!

hahaha

« **Reply #9 on:** December 14, 2012, 10:48:19 AM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on December 14, 2012, 09:34:34 AM

skip all the nonsense with bolting or screwing things to the stringers... glass in a bulkhead. its really the only way to tie in everything.

measure and cut a 3/4" plywood piece

tab it in with fiberglass (if you can paint, you can glass...) all the way around.

slap some carpet over it. it'll make a *HUUUUGE* difference in your deck and how your boat rides. its simple and easy to do, you'll have somewhere to install some speakers if you want, and it'll keep all the crap under the deck from constantly flying out back at you.

I can see how that's the way to go, and I have done some minor fiberglass work in the past. QUESTION

I have a floor where you have hull and stringer, I'm going pull the carpet and see what type of flooring and how it is fastened. And for my particular application / Since I have a floor would it be OK to attach ( tab ) it to the floor with "L" type brackets and glass it in that way instead of cutting the floor to get to the hull or is that the point; to attach to the new bulkhead to the stringers like in your photos?

Am I making any sense??

« **Reply #10 on:** December 14, 2012, 10:55:52 AM »

skip the brackets, once its glassed it will be plenty strong enough. boats flex and twist... screws and bolts only elongate holes and eventually strip out. just cut your bulkhead to accommodate the floor, and then "tab" it around at the edges. tabbing is where you take like a 4" strip of fiberglass and in an L shape glass it to the piece and the floor/hull.

« **Reply #11 on:** December 14, 2012, 02:03:38 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on December 14, 2012, 10:55:52 AM

skip the brackets, once its glassed it will be plenty strong enough. boats flex and twist... screws and bolts only elongate holes and eventually strip out. just cut your bulkhead to accommodate the floor, and then "tab" it around at the edges. tabbing is where you take like a 4" strip of fiberglass and in an L shape glass it to the piece and the floor/hull.

Ok; I see what you mean now on the tabbing. I'm going to buy 3/4" marine plywood for the bulkhead,....when you lay the glass is it better to be a little generous with the resin or is that counter productive where the floor meets the edge? Also.....should I just leave the rest of the bulkhead 'raw' or maybe shoot some paint on it and carpet it or glass both sides???

I re-glassed my rear seat mounts a few weeks ago.... had some water damage.... and was going to use the same resin BUT...... Another question answered by your photo...use epoxy resin.

ok good deal.... when I'm done with the rebuilding the carb.......rewiring the trailer....rebunking the trailer......rebuilding the surge brakes...it should be about March...

Thanks for the info.

« **Reply #12 on:** December 14, 2012, 02:59:59 PM »

for coating the piece, if you're going to use epoxy (epoxy sticks to anything, including poly...) mix it with the hardener, then thin it down with some acetone. this keeps the piece lightweight, but water resistant and extends the coverage of your resin... lets face it, this stuff isnt cheap. you dont need to cover the piece in mat/cloth, its already strong enough.

as for the tabbing, you need to make sure that the mat or cloth you're going to use is FULLY saturated with resin, no air bubbles, then what i do is use a fiberglass roller to squeeze the excess resin off of the work, and make sure that its fully saturated. coating it heavy with resin isnt going to increase strength, it just adds unnecessary weight and if you want to keep things clean, unnecessary TOUGH sanding. also epoxy likes to run, so you'll have a giant pool at the lowest spot and then it'll harden there.

« **Reply #13 on:** December 16, 2012, 01:10:13 PM »

Ok, so I'm thinking: coat the bulkhead in poly ..( cheaper but will be a little more water resistant than raw plywood) then use epoxy for the actual installation. And I'll follow the advice re: technique

Thanks, and I'll follow up with pics during the process.....

muffbro

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