what do i do

« **on:** December 27, 2009, 02:33:36 PM »

im getting ready to put new carpet in the boat got all the carpet out and i seen this WTF

how bad is it? can i just put 2 flat bars one on each side 2"x 12"x1/4
the two holes hold a bracket for my seat this is right under my ass

« **Reply #1 on:** December 27, 2009, 02:45:19 PM »

kind of a wierd spot to break, but definately not good...looks like someone tried to fix it before...broken stringers are definately not something to mess with, but where the break is at doesnt appear to be substantial...like if it was back towards the motor...im just thinking like this because there are 1/4 stringer boats...im sure some of the more professional guys will chime in soon

« **Reply #2 on:** December 27, 2009, 03:21:27 PM »

obviously the rite way is to replace the stringer, but, there are a lot of 1/4 stringer boats out there and if this is under the seat, i dont think it will be a problem.

Unless you are running big power. If it was me i would put a full rail kit in it. From the transom to where the front bulk head is at until you can fix it rite.
jmo
ralph

« **Reply #3 on:** December 27, 2009, 03:26:18 PM »

Quote from: Ralph Brunt on December 27, 2009, 03:21:27 PM

obviously the rite way is to replace the stringer, but, there are a lot of 1/4 stringer boats out there and if this is under the seat, i dont think it will be a problem. Unless you are running big power. If it was me i would put a full rail kit in it. From the transom to where the front bulk head is at until you can fix it rite.
jmo
ralph

Ralph what does it $ to put new stringer in a boats i have so much $ in to this fccking boat there is no turning back now and where to get it done at

« **Reply #4 on:** December 27, 2009, 03:47:52 PM »

Quote from: challenger on December 27, 2009, 03:26:18 PM

Ralph what does it $ to put new stringer in a boats i have so much $ in to this fccking boat there is no turning back now and where to get it done at

Probably looking at around $1000 to $1500. I agree with Ralph, grind off the bad glass from around the area, fill the holes, re do the glass, add backer plates of 1/8" aluminum from transom to bulkhead and you'll more than likely be fine.

« **Reply #5 on:** December 27, 2009, 04:16:59 PM »

for 12 foot of 2X2x1/8" and 12 foot of backing plate i see about 80 bucks definately cheaper then new stringers for the time being...and that was 6061 aluminum

« **Reply #6 on:** December 27, 2009, 05:41:34 PM »

challenger,

In all seriousness, I would cut the stringer in half longways for about a foot and a half on each side of the break and cut angles into the ends to act as a wedge, graft in a new piece and dowel and reglass it in, it broke for a reason, that is an odd one for sure..should be able to fix that on the cheap..

A day of work today could save you a week later...

GT

« **Reply #7 on:** December 27, 2009, 05:55:22 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on December 27, 2009, 05:41:34 PM

challenger,

In all seriousness, I would cut the stringer in half longways for about a foot and a half on each side of the break and cut angles into the ends to act as a wedge, graft in a new piece and dowel and reglass it in, it broke for a reason, that is an odd one for sure..should be able to fix that on the cheap..

A day of work today could save you a week later...

GT

ok GT like this

« **Reply #8 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:06:41 PM »

Quote from: challenger on December 27, 2009, 05:55:22 PM

ok GT like this

Exactly like that...

Could not have drawn it better myself...Keep in mind, to dowel it like that, the dowels will have to go all the way down through the top of the patch piece..I would use 1/2" hardwood dowelling...Probably clear Douglas Fur or Mohogony for the patch piece..

Good Luck...

GT

« **Reply #9 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:21:58 PM »

i tend to disagree for one you wont be able to get your dowl pins to slide into the ajoining pieces because you would half to slide the new piece in from the side

it would half to be more like this

in all honesty i still agree with ralph as being a strong and actually stylish way of repairing yet fairly inexpensive

also you count mount alot of goodies to it

also quick edit you are only fixing half of the stringer as it is, and with stress and this is where your seat is who is to say that it wont just pop right up after a gnarly wave?

shall i do a kindergarden diagram of a ralp fix?

« **Reply #10 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:25:52 PM »

Quote from: Nordie on December 27, 2009, 06:21:58 PM

i tend to disagree for one you wont be able to get your dowl pins to slide into the ajoining pieces because you would half to slide the new piece in from the side

it would half to be more like this

(Attachment Link)

in all honesty i still agree with ralph as being a strong and actually stylish way of repairing yet fairly inexpensive

also you count mount alot of goodies to it

Jee whiz, I said he would have to drill all the way through the top of the patch, my way is way stronger and could/should be considered permanent...

GT

« **Reply #11 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:26:55 PM »

thanks for your help will do this then put 2x2x1/8x24" then call it done

« **Reply #12 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:29:15 PM »

...a good home tip advice sand your rails with 400 and step it up to 2000 all wet sandpaper....then hit it with some zephyr pro 40 and bam you got polished rails...least thats what i would do....just remember to ground out the glass far away from the crack to get new glass on there, and to stick to the old stuff...

« **Reply #13 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:37:27 PM »

is the stringer cracked all the way down to the hull? or is it like this

this was a hole that cracked, so i drilled it out bigger and stuck a dowl pin in it then reglassed it. then whent with the full rail kit.

i will not argue with gt on this

as he has more experience than most of us here on scjb with this kind of stuff. hell when i found the crack in my liberty i called him and asked him for his advice. that repair is still golden

« **Reply #14 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:38:33 PM »

I am not trying to say it cannot be fixed with a rail kit, or sandwitching with some metal, just saying the stringer should be repaired regardless. I really hate doing sh!t twice and this would be easy and cheap, probably about 6 hours worth of work and maybe $50 in materials..

The last rail kit I built was from raw materials and I had a week in it not to mention the $250 bucks in hardware and aluminum. $:-\$

GT

« **Reply #15 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:47:58 PM »

no i agree, but i just see the full length deal being strong tying the stringer together...im voting both as mentioned because the sandwhich will also help hold the fix it peice in and tie it to the stringers well with the glass included...

« **Reply #16 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:54:28 PM »

did mine today but stringer wasnt cracked just glass

« **Reply #17 on:** December 27, 2009, 09:21:52 PM »

I tend to agree with you guys on the rails to support it and run it, But Glenn has a point. Why did it break there would be my concern? Bad section of wood or actual stress point in that hull? That would worry me some.

Personally, I would try to do exactly as Glenn says, wedge a new piece in and dowel in into place, glass it back over. Would be a new experience for me, either way. While half my boats are "1/4 stringer", I would also assume the bottom of those hulls are laid up heavier as well. But I'm not anywhere near an expert. Maybe both WOULD be the way to do it, as Josh said.

To kinda validate what Nordie said about 1/4 stringer boats, he has also witnessed how the engine in the Moo visibly rocks around almost like it would in a car, even idling (Due to the cam), compared to the rest of the boat. He, Skip and Branden assumed rubber mounts, but nope! The whole back half of the bottom of the boat actually flexes quite abit. I haven't noticed this on many full stringer boats, but have on several 1/4 or 1/2 stringer boats. Not just mine. I would have to assume they are different animals and are designed to do this, hence the CJ rule #1 change to full stringer only given the HP involved!

Ray

« **Reply #18 on:** December 27, 2009, 09:29:04 PM »

I whould do the repair they talked about and the full rail kit but would mount the rail to the lower part of the stringer this will give more support to the hull my 02

« **Reply #19 on:** December 27, 2009, 09:38:46 PM »

You also have to take into account that most 1/4 stringer boats have floors glassed into them also, but most are much heavier lay ups. My boat (White Trash I) only has 3/4" clear Mahogany stringers and no floors whatsoever, the stringers go all the way up until they taper out. That hull is stupid light (I flipped the hull over in my garage by myself), but also extemely strong...A 1/4 stringer boat would be a much heavier lay up and not as rigid...Like Ray mentioned.

My Carrera has what looked like 1/4 stringers, but they actually go all the way to the front of the hull, just are cut down to allow a lower floor level, it also has a floor glasses in and it attatches all the way around the the hull and to the stringers. A heavy SOB too...

GT

« **Reply #20 on:** December 27, 2009, 09:44:11 PM »

Quote from: honda1 on December 27, 2009, 09:29:04 PM

I whould do the repair they talked about and the full rail kit but would mount the rail to the lower part of the stringer this will give more support to the hull my 02

yes and no i see your point, but this is how i see it...the stringer appears to be cracked towards the top, and this is how i see it i might be wrong, but the stringer is going to see more flex at the top because the stringer at the bottom is glassed to the bottom of the boat...ralph posted a pic of his stringer as well and lone behold the stringer began to crack at the top...i got a picture in my head, but hard to explain

« **Reply #21 on:** December 27, 2009, 09:49:23 PM »

Quote from: Nordie on December 27, 2009, 09:44:11 PM

yes and no i see your point, but this is how i see it...the stringer appears to be cracked towards the top, and this is how i see it i might be wrong, but the stringer is going to see more flex at the top because the stringer at the bottom is glassed to the bottom of the boat...ralph posted a pic of his stringer as well and lone behold the stringer began to crack at the top...i got a picture in my head, but hard to explain

The force is strong with this one...

GT

« **Reply #22 on:** December 27, 2009, 09:50:50 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on December 27, 2009, 09:38:46 PM

You also have to take into account that most 1/4 stringer boats have floors glassed into them also, but most are much heavier lay ups. My boat (White Trash I) only has 3/4" clear Mahogany stringers and no floors whatsoever, the stringers go all the way up until they taper out. That hull is stupid light (I flipped the hull over in my garage by myself), but also extemely strong...A 1/4 stringer boat would be a much heavier lay up and not as rigid...Like Ray mentioned.

My Carrera has what looked like 1/4 stringers, but they actually go all the way to the front of the hull, just are cut down to allow a lower floor level, it also has a floor glasses in and it attatches all the way around the the hull and to the stringers. A heavy SOB too...

GT

I was gonna mention that too, Glenn. Both the Moo (an 18' Sleek Rebel) and the Saguaro are "1/4 stringer" technically. That is kinda of a misnomer, as both actually have stringers going well past the bulkhead, but in front of the motor box they are both tapered down by about 3/4 their width at the transom. And yes, both have floors glassed in (The Saguaro's removed at the moment). They are BOTH much lighter hulls than either the Full Stringer 18' Hallett of Brads I have here and the 20' Sleek Streaker.

Long and short of it, fix it as Glenn said, ver batim, IMO. There is obviously stresss there, and I would be concerned that rails, and the holes required to secure them, would flex more than just the repair itself.

Ray

« **Reply #23 on:** January 02, 2010, 05:53:12 PM »

i got my stringer fixed carpet now i know why they charge so dam much its a bitch

« **Reply #24 on:** January 02, 2010, 08:33:02 PM »

challenger

Nordie

Ralph Brunt

challenger

Luckie Stiff

Nordie

GT Jets

challenger

GT Jets

Nordie

GT Jets

challenger

Nordie

Ralph Brunt

GT Jets

Nordie

honda1

IRRebel

honda1

GT Jets

Nordie

GT Jets

IRRebel

challenger

GT Jets