Seriously, dont piss GT off with wacky setups. Lol

I don't get pissed anymore,  you fukkers have made me numb to all things.



GT

One more thing, what the hell is with that steering tiller bolt spacer thingomobob?  Lose that spacer and replace the bolt with a shorter one. To get the cable to move at the tube, replace the rubber insert and loosen it up.

http://www.placediverter.com/proddetail.php?prod=place_diverter_steering_extension_kit

I put the spacer in there because the steering was at a gnarly angle coming through the steering tube.


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I put a real straight snoot on which has a 4* pin.  Had a porpoising issue at middle to wot before. Cleaned up my launch, cruising as well wot...very stable. Having the 9 gives me an extra 2" further out. I can tell the difference from the shorter modified split C I had on prior.  I might ad a bowl to snoot 2" spacer to achieve further exit.

This is my setup. Curious how the new powerplant will work with it. I funking love it at 75% to WOT, it frees up like I am floating. Ya!

This is basically the same as my setup. I have a Dominator Bowl, 8 degree adjustable wedges, set at 3 degrees up, and an AT droop with a regular nozzle

See! You are a badass like me!

Never... I could never even be compared to the badassery that is fordlover

Not sure. It rode good. But ill check back in a month or two when the new badass blue oval gets dropped, tuned and the badassness starts flowing out

JMHO, that nozzle may hurt your end performance. Beautiful boat.

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Hey GT. I got a 20 ft open bow mod V Baker. Droop n ride plate. Would a straight do anything for me? I'm run 86.4 at 6200 with a bronze AB. Thanks for input.


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In all honesty I'd be more inclined to recommend a full droop on a that hull. Do you get good lift or if it?  By the sounds if it it rocks pretty good. The rudder is probably hurting you more than anything,  not that I would take it off,  it's just a small amount of parasitic drag.

Sounds like a stout build to me.

The best advice I can give to anyone is that you really don't know what is going to do until it's bolted to the boat. Trial and error works 100% of the time.

I would however be doing a disservice of I didn't say I thought it would hurt the end performance.

JMO

GT

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It's been several years since I experimented with PD's full droop & HPH on a Rogers Bonneville. I went to PD and talked with Tim about my set up at the time. Stock bottom running 750hp ish.

Full droop did not work well at all. Boat was all over the place, did not feel safe at full throttle.

HPH was the right nozzle for that application. Ran 93 on gps and always felt solid on the water.

Currently I've gone with what I think is the best of both worlds on my Daytona. 6" extension with the ability to wedge down in front and back up to get the thrust line height where the Daytona likes it and move it back as well. Driving down to B1 today to pick up new loader, going to get the experts opinion too. We'll see.

I tried that just rode bow high n porpoised on me just at cruising speed.


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When I was looking for the right nozzle angle I went up wedge until it porpoised then came back down. If compare mine to your pic I have 1 degree down wedge where you have up wedge. The other difference is I have a mini droop to your full droop. Bottom line is we both want the bottom pin on the droop 3/4" above the ride plate.

Side note - Chris at B1 doesn't like the extra hardware of the extension, I didn't think he would. He gave me really good advice on what I have. Big thanks to Chris at B1 Racing for taking the time to talk with me.

I went n bought stainless bolts all different lengths because the studs I didn't care for. The bolt head is a much cleaner look. But I have just gone back to my droop no wedge n and my place Diverter.


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Ironically,  studs are almost twice as strong.

GT

And I imagined bolts wouldn't bend with the wedges.

That's actually the issue. Thread engagement is compromised. Mainly because of the side loads on the bolts.

When you screw in studs, they go in nice and straight,  use red Loctite. Then when you install wedges, nozzles etc., the nut becomes the clamping force,  completely leaving the threads in the aluminum un-disturbed.

Just facts,  not trying to offend.

GT