MATERIAL
The performance of any impeller can be improved (or destroyed if modified wrong) regardless of construction material.
Aluminum
The first picture is of an aluminum impeller in an application that slightly exceeded the horsepower limits of the material. This is one situation where, if you are living life right on the edge, it's better to step up to a stainless. Nothing sucks more than being stranded in the middle of the lake from a damaged pump, the wife and kids cooking in the blazing sun, on the first day of your vacation.
Aluminum should really be relegated to applications below 500 horsepower. It's not a matter of if it will fail, but WHEN it will fail.
The quality of the earlier castings are absolutely horrible for performance and efficiency. The crude castings have a lot of issues with cavitation. These can definitely benefit from a mild reworking, IF the impeller is in otherwise usable condition AND it matches the application.
Usually used aluminum impellers are beyond their practical life expectancy. If the application justifies replacing with another aluminum impeller, the new castings from American Turbine and Place Diverter are very nice and don't really require detailing. The shape of the hub, shroud, and vanes are pretty decent (for the application) right out of the box.
Aluminum impellers are the easiest to detail and modify because of the free machining characteristics of the aluminum. We just feel that there are better ways to spend your money.
Bronze
Bronze impellers are commonly favorites of performance enthusiasts "looking for a deal." I don't believe bronze impellers are currently in production, but at one time, bronze impellers were marketed as more economical than stainless steel but with greater horsepower handling capabilities than aluminum (but less than stainless).
If you have a bronze impeller, I don't think that it is necessarily worth upgrading to stainless (for moderate performance applications). I would never specifically search out a bronze impeller. In the event that your bronze impeller is damaged, depending on the damage, there is no way to repair a cracked bronze impeller.
Another minor issue is that the bronze castings are not nearly as nice, in the as cast condition, as most stainless and modern aluminum impellers. Again, cavitation is an issue. This is not really an issue after proper detailing, they can be made to work well. Compared to a good stainless, a bronze impeller will never quite bite as hard as a good stainless. The reason for this is the thickness of the vanes. Thinner vanes slice through the water with much less leading edge cavitation.
Stainless Steel
First, I want to say, just because an impeller is cast from stainless steel, that alone doesn't make it magically work well. For example, there are some extra heavy duty castings that were marketed by Berkeley as being specially designed to tolerate ingesting rocks and debris. These castings are very heavy as every feature is made excessively thick to protect against rock damage. The vanes are very thick and blunt. The fillet radii are huge and extend way out into the hub and shroud. The shroud is also very thick, closing off the intake opening with a very poor transition. These are well suited to fishing boats that regularly run over sand bars and not to performance boats.
There's not much I can really say about stainless steel as a material for impellers. Stainless impellers are successfully run at all horsepower levels. The highest horsepower application that I am aware of one of our American Turbine impellers is in is around the 3500 horsepower level.
Type 17-4 stainless is the material of choice. The number 17-4 represents alloying elements 17% chromium and 4% nickel. When I had my prototype inducers cast, this was the material I specified.
I have seen 304 and 316 castings also. The 316 is miserable to cut because of the work hardening characteristics.
Other Alloys
For the super baller who has everything, American Turbine has cast titanium impellers. EXTREMELY light weight!!!
Precision Jet Drive offers billet impellers in both 1018 and 8620 steel. These are very nice impellers and the performance potential definitely sparked my interest. I really wish these were available in 17-4 stainless, corrosion is the issue.
COMMON FAILURES
If you are inspecting your own impeller, purchasing a used impeller, or you are an inspiring pump guru, there are some areas you need to watch for cracks.
1. The leading edges of the vanes, near the hub.
2. The shroud at the trailing edges of the vanes.
I am always suprised to see how damage occurs in practice, it seems like it is rarely what I expect. One such example is the trailing edges of the vanes that have been thinned (foiled) by an overly ambitious guru with a grinder. The trailing edges will bulge outward from pressure building inside the impeller, not from the force of the vanes pushing the water.
Rock Damage
If you have spent a lot of money on building a really nice jet pump, most people suck up rocks only once. Some don't learn the first time. Yeah, yeah... I know... It's always the wife's fault.
So, now that you (I mean the wife) sent some rocks through the pump, what can you do?
If the damage to the leading edges (picture 2) isn't too bad, they can be cut back. You won't change RPM cutting the leading edge back and re-detailing them.
If the rocks pass through and rattle around between the trailing edges of the impeller and the leading edges of the bowl, the trailing edges of the impeller might only get bent. Sometimes, this can be straightened and blended. Excessive damage could require cutting the impeller to a smaller size, increasing RPM. It is a bad idea to repair the vanes unevenly, because that will cause the impeller to push the shaft to one side, throwing off the balance and even causing contact with the wear ring.
Damage to the bowl (picture 3), on the other hand, can be dressed out, but it will never work as good as it once did.
Rock damage is one of those things where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Water Hammer
If the pump is unloading and loading, the shock to all pump components can be detrimental, including, but not limited to, breaking the impeller and bowl, even twisting the pump shaft (picture 4).
Cavitation Burn
Cavitation is the process of boiling in a liquid as a result of pressure reduction rather than by external heat addition.
My favorite video on cavitation... Yes, I'm weird like that: Watch "16. Cavitation" on YouTube
Hopefully you see how irregularities in the leading edges (picture 2) of the impeller vanes cause cavitation. In picture 1, the cavitation burn is the light colored blotches on the vanes at the radii near the hub and shroud. In some cases, the 'cav' burn is so bad that the vanes are eroded almost all the way through to failure. The burn itself is the result of the jet stream, acting on the surface of the impeller vanes, as the bubbles collapse in the higher pressure areas.
Not only does cavitation cause damage to the pump, it also induces inefficiency that robs performance.
OTHER FEATURES
American Turbine offers impellers with a secondary wear ring (picture 5) on the bowl side. This is to fill the void between the impeller hub and the bowl. This option requires either a Dominator bowl, that features a corresponding bore (picture 6). A Berkeley bowl (picture 7) will not fit, but can be machined to accept this secondary wear ring.
Most of the time, we just machine these off, particularly if a stuffer plate (picture 8 ) will be used. I think a properly clearanced stuffer plate is a better option, but I prefer the secondary wear ring over nothing.
Note: A stuffer plate is one of those things you do AFTER you have already done everything else. From a performance per dollar spent standpoint, investing in a good impeller, loader, and bowl work are much higher priorities.
THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT
You didn't think it would be that easy, did you? Well... Sometimes it is.
Pump Shaft
Typically, if you're upgrading from an aluminum impeller, it's because of a corresponding upgrade to horsepower. At this point, we consider an upgrade from a 304 to a 17-4 shaft mandatory. Be advised, some older Dominator pumps and all new Dominator pumps come with a type 17-4 shaft standard. Type 17-4 stainless is magnetic. If a magnet will positively stick to your pump shaft, you're good to go.
"Looking at strength, designers should consider two parameters. One is ultimate tensile strength (UTS), the maximum tensile stress a material can endure without tearing. The other is yield strength, the tensile load per unit area required to permanently deform a material. Up to the yield point, deformation is elastic; the material returns to its original shape after the load is removed" (
https://www.machinedesign.com/materials/comparing-stainless-steel-and-other-metals).
Mechanical Properties, depending on heat treating condition:
Type 17-4
UTS: 115-190 KSI
Yield Strength: 75-170 KSI
Grade 304 (18-8 - 18% chromium 8% nickel)
UTS: 75 KSI min
Yield Strength: 30 KSI min
Note: KSI = Kilopound per Square Inch.
At idle, heavy impellers tend to make a lot of noise. The reason for this is that there is a lot of accumulated driveline lash with two u-joints and a Parallel Key Splined yoke driving the shaft (
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spline_(mechanical)).
The issue is that the engine does not produce a smooth rotating motion of the crankshaft, but an oscillating motion instead (
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piston_motion_equations). Through each of the four cycles, the crankshaft actually bends and twists. This motion is transmitted through the driveline to the impeller.
Steels are generally 66% heaver than aluminum. A heavy bronze or stainless steel impeller acts like a flywheel, retaining rotational inertia (
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flywheel). As the crankshaft experiences positive acceleration, the impeller is likewise accelerated. In between power strokes, the crankshaft experiences a negative acceleration, however the mass of the impeller is an energy store and doesn't change velocity as quickly. The lash in the splines (and needle bearings in the u-joints) reverses directions until the next power stroke.
One related issue is that the hammering back and forth can distort the external splines of a type 304 shaft. Support of the internal splines of the slip yoke is lost with the deformation of the shaft splines. If the slip yoke cannot slide freely on the pump shaft, the axial forces will be transmitted directly to the crankshaft thrust bearing.
To give you an idea of how much force we are talking about, with a BC impeller and 200psi bowl pressure, the jet pump thrust bearing would experience 11,685.2 pounds of force pushing towards the engine. The engine thrust bearing will be wiped dry as the oil takes the path of least resistance, out the front of the thrust bearing.
Using the equation F = P × A
F = Force
r = Radius of the impeller large diameter
P = PSI (bowl pressure)
A = Area (8.625" impeller) = pi (3.14) × r^2
Note: 200psi is around half of what a QE drag boat would produce
My opinion, it's not worth the risk of losing an engine.