I have a 20.5 Advantage Classic closed bow with a AT-309 pump with hydraulic turbine trim. With the engine off the steering feels normal, but when the engine is running and in the water the steering gets very stiff. I have replaced the stock steering with a rotary unit and no change. I even replaced the entire steering and trim set up with a new unit, no change what so ever. I have routed the steering cable different ways with no change. With both of the steering systems with engine off it feels like every other jet that I have ever owned or driven, but put it in the water and fire it up it becomes a chore to steer. Any sugestions? It has been driving me crazy.

Thanks.

That is really weird.

I had a boat do this years ago, it was a worn bowl, the area where the steering nozzle gimbals into the bowl was worn to the point that when under pressure the o-rings pushed against the bowl super hard, causing the steering to get stiff.. Had to reshape the machined are with Belzona and the problem went away, otherwise it would have been a new bowl..

Got any pictures?

Maybe the same thing?

Come on Glen... Lets diagnose it.

What changes, in the steering, when the engine is running?

Does the steering have the same stiffness with the reverse bucket open and closed while the engine is running?

Does the steering stiffness change with speed or RPM, or is it about the same stiffness when the engine is running under all conditions and easy when the engine shut off?

Thought I already may have....    The old squirting O-ring syndrome...

Questions and answers before guesses, my son.

Already asked if he had a picture.... Jeeeze...



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Ok, what is "normal" with the engine off?  With a single cable swinging only a nozzle, you should be able to stick a single finger through a steering wheel spoke and go from lock to lock, engine off.

If you need to use much more force than that, something is wrong. 

One more question.  Engine running, is it just as difficult to turn the nozzle as it is to return it to the straight position, or is it easier to bring it back from full lock to straight?

With a new condition rack/cable setup, it should almost self center if you're on the throttle.

I've never heard of a rotary system on a jet... Is it a dual cable?  What rotary system did you buy?  There are a bunch of NFB rotary systems out there...which use a screwed up series of clutches in the helm the work....poorly, and are designed for outboards that tend to pull one direction.

Wait, easy to turn, hard to center?

Grab the nozzle and wiggle it up and down, boy, that sounds kinda dirty...

It sounds like you have two problems, one, the steering tube is too tight and two, bad string king pin bushings.

Without seeing it, tough to diagnose over the internet.

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It sure sounds like its in the cable or the nozzle is moving and jamming up.  Next time you back it into the water, disconnect the steering from the pump, leave the boat strapped to the trailer, fire it up, go grab the nozzle and try to
Turn it.  That'll get us some headway on the diag.   Also, put your
Hand on the various joints of the nozzle while someone else starts the engine, you'll be able to feel if something is moving.

Finally made it back to the river for the fourth. I checked the nozzle with the boat running in the water on the trailer. Everything seams fine. All pins seam fine and there isn't any leakage from the o-rings. Nothing is loose or binding. I did here a couple of strange noises when I fired up the boat in the lagoon at Queshon Park kind of a squeel from the pump. I don't know if its the thrust bearing or tail shaft bushings. I guess I need to go back to Blythe and pull it apart. Might be time for a new bowl. I will post pics when I get it apart to see what you guys think. It was still an awesome five days on the  river though.

I had a similar problem.
Trashed the rotary style helm and put in a rack unit.... BOOM!
No problems, just solutions.

-beerjet-