Kind of debatable questions.  I have a '81 18 foot sleekcraft rebel, it's got a fresh 460 (400+ horse), and a fresh JC pump.  The problem I'm having is with a really choppy ride unless it is complete glass.  I know a small jet isn't the smoothest ride, but a buddy of mine has the same size boat but an old school eliminator that ride's way better in the same conditions..   I have a place diverter and no ride plade or trim tabs. 

After reading about characteristics of a ride plate, I think I would definitely benefit from lifting the boat out of the water a touch and riding further back on the hull / ride plate.

I was wondering kind of two part which would be more expensive and/or would there be a noticeable difference going either way?  The JC pump I on my boat has not been modified as a split bowl so I think I have 3 options..

1. Buy a ride plate & shoe and have a shop fit one, not sure what the estimated cost would be.  I'm fairly mechanical, but I don't think I want to take the chance of screwing it up..  I'm in Lakewood, CA and I'm not really sure what shops do this around here..

2. Buy a JG split bowl then buy a droop w/ the ride plate attached that Place makes.. If I go this route, is there any added benefit or detriment to a droop?

3. Have my bowl machined (split) to go w/ the number 2 option except use my existing bowl..

Any opinions on where the money would be better served??

Thanks in advance!!

John

thanks for the replies!!

i've played alot with the diverter.. I can find a point where it will ride pretty good in small chop.. unfortunately, i had to go the hydrolic diverter route so i have to 're-find' the spot every time.. I dont have full length runners to bolt a manual handle too..  it can be a pain in the a$$ find the perfect spot sometimes..

at lower speeds it's not bad when the diverter is positioned right.. I think my problem is the boat want's to porpoise a little at high speed and chop amplifies the problem.. it's hard to explain..  in smooth water, ripples or very small chop it rides like a champ..  but, when it get a little rough is where i have problems.. i mainly go to Parker, not even about to attempt Havasu chop in my dingy next to the ships out there

it's almost like when i cut through a couple wakes, the boat wants to lift a touch and slam in between the waves instead of riding through to the next one coming.. i'm thinking if there was a ride plate, the 'slam' affect would calm down and feel like (small chop, chop, chop) because the boat is still riding on the water further back on the hull (ride plate) until i cross the next wake/wave/whoop..  (not sure if that made sense  )

thanks for the replies!!

i've played alot with the diverter.. I can find a point where it will ride pretty good in small chop.. unfortunately, i had to go the hydrolic diverter route so i have to 're-find' the spot every time.. I dont have full length runners to bolt a manual handle too..  it can be a pain in the a$$ find the perfect spot sometimes..

at lower speeds it's not bad when the diverter is positioned right.. I think my problem is the boat want's to porpoise a little at high speed and chop amplifies the problem.. it's hard to explain..  in smooth water, ripples or very small chop it rides like a champ..  but, when it get a little rough is where i have problems.. i mainly go to Parker, not even about to attempt Havasu chop in my dingy next to the ships out there

it's almost like when i cut through a couple wakes, the boat wants to lift a touch and slam in between the waves instead of riding through to the next one coming.. i'm thinking if there was a ride plate, the 'slam' affect would calm down and feel like (small chop, chop, chop) because the boat is still riding on the water further back on the hull (ride plate) until i cross the next wake/wave/whoop..  (not sure if that made sense  )

I used the counting method for repeatable settings (all the way down and count how long I pressed the "up" button) still hated the hydraulic though, these problems ar a major MOFO toget a handle on.

Stupid question #1  Have you tried putting some weight in the bow?  Try like 80# under the deck....

Stupid question #2 Does the boat porpose, or just ride rough in chop? big difference, a porpose will never really correct when you leave the choppy water....

Stupid question #3 At what speed does it start to pound your ass up to your throat?  lower or say just cruising speed?...


A droop will make it easier to drive at speed and may make it more stable, but that may make her dance more...

A ride plate makes the boat feel bigger (longer) and would IMO give a pretty good return on the investment, though not a simple bolt on by any stretch, does afford some more adjustability...

Trim tabs will work, cav. plates even better, but I don't think they would be required (could be used in conjunction with the ride plate and the boat would ride like a bigger boat) and again, more adjustability...

Does the engine vary the RPM when it gets wierd? do you have a loader grate?  (Stupid questions 4 and 5)

GT

appreciate the comments..

#1 - I never have tried that, but I dont think i can.. The whole front of the bow is filled with foam..

#2 - I think it just rides ruff in chop..  When i initially get up on plane, if i have the diverter positioned wrong then it does want to dive on itself a little, but once i have it set right, it's a smooth ride..

#3 - cruising and faster speeds is when it get's rough.. lower speeds not a problem..  it actually feels like when i hit small waves, say 1/2 - 1 ft, the boat wants to jump/lift and then drops and drags when it comes back down..  so it kind of throws u forward a little..

#4 - the RPM's will stay about the same.. only variance is my foot waving back and forth 

#5 - i only have a rock grate..

I have a short clip my wife took w/ her camera that I'll try to post..  there's bit of movement, but I think it kind of shows how the boat wants to bang on small/large chop when i get into it..

This is killer feedback...IMHO droop and a ride plate together, get the boat off its center of gravity, its acting like a teeter totter...May be able to cure with just a droop (they tend to have a transom lifting trait) and a loader, it will be tuneable with wedges so be patient...

The loader will help keep the pump loaded more consistantly, would be worth trying by itself (read; cheap).

GT

I almost barfed on my keypad 

Put the pedal to the wood and hang on   LOL

You need way more bow down action....Diverter down. Do you have a pic of your Diverter setup?

GT

I do not see any issues at all, you have enough down snoot there to refill your waterglass at speed... 

I will stay with the loader and a snoot (both easily reversible), with the ride plate when your independantly wealthy...

GT

 Wow, that video didn't look fun.  dm2bfree, check the bottom of that boat !  If it has a lot of rocker like Jim Brock said that will cause it to ride bow high (like in the vid) and slam down over every wake. And possibly porpoise even on smooth water without plates. 

 Rocker = an upward curve of the bottom towards the transom, like the bottom of a rocking chair.
 Hook = a downward curve.

 If it has rocker, a droop may not be a good thing.  I was told not to run one on my boat (a rocker bottom) unless it was going to be a drag race only boat (smooth water only).   

 This is just my uneducated opinion, but I dought that Jim is wrong. 

If it has a lot of rocker like Jim Brock said that will cause it to ride bow high (like in the vid) and slam down over every wake. And possibly porpoise even on smooth water without plates. 

This is exactly what the boat does...   So adding a ride plate seems like the slam down behavior could be countered by the extended surface??

Wow, that video didn't look fun.  dm2bfree, check the bottom of that boat !  If it has a lot of rocker like Jim Brock said that will cause it to ride bow high (like in the vid) and slam down over every wake. And possibly porpoise even on smooth water without plates. 

 Rocker = an upward curve of the bottom towards the transom, like the bottom of a rocking chair.
 Hook = a downward curve.

 If it has rocker, a droop may not be a good thing.  I was told not to run one on my boat (a rocker bottom) unless it was going to be a drag race only boat (smooth water only).   

 This is just my uneducated opinion, but I dought that Jim is wrong. 

I'm going to put a straight edge on bottom of the boat at the transom tonight and post my findings..  Given it does have a lot of rocker which I'm next to positive will be the case now, I guess my next question is which option should I go (fitted ride plate or split bowl, place droop & ride plate) if I need to go with a the ride plate?? I rather go cheap as possible that will fix the problem without jerry rigging it

*EDIT - GT answered it above *

I PM'd you, I'm not looking to throw anyone under the bus

 After you find out if this hull has rocker or not, call Tom at Jet Boat Performance (805-466-4719).  He recently did battle with a rocker bottom boat and if I remember right the droop made things worse. He might have a better idea for you.  Or try calling Jim Brock (818-890-1867), it seams like he already knows this type of boat (post #4).  So, he may have a solution for you too. 

 PS, dont feel bad I'm going to be going through this same battle soon. 

There is some good information in this thread 

http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=3782.msg53279#msg53279