Anyone have a copy of them? Apparently Place doesnt put this stuff online.

Are they using a Bennett type pump?

http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/techhome.php

They do use the Bennett. I read/heard that the Place one has 2 more solinoids then if it came directly from Bennett, Dont know if its true or if it even matters...

I've been looking through the Bennett sight and still can't find a diagram 

2 hours online searching and still cant find one!

What do you need the diagram for????It's only four wires...

You need a double pole double throw switch, the motor need to reverse and the solenoids need to be tied to the appropriate direction..

I will have it for you in a jiffy...

GT

check this

http://www.performanceboats.com/html/forums/showthread.php?t=47128

Last time I saw one up close that was installed, it had a relay wired in with it, but I dont have a relay in my wiring so I wanted to make sure it was correct. Dont want to fry the pump and create another issue for myself

Last one you saw was mine! Unfortunately, I don't think pics of that are even possible.......... PM Ralph. He just put one in his "Family Boat" 

Ray

i have the diagram and will scan it for you when i get home tonight, no releys

Thanks Ralph.

Your correct ray, I remember yours having a relay in it and having to replace it when it went out. Started thinking about yesterday when I was running the hydraulic lines. About to fill it up with ATF and check for leaks and didn't want to damage the pump by not having it.

Here's a question, have read that having the power coming through the ignition to the switch causes load issues. Any truth to that? Should I run a dedicated line from the battery and not have It on the ignition switch?

Yes. I ran mine to the ign. It didn't work for shit, ran a 10GA primary wire from the battery, it works bitchin'.

Thanks. Time to run a new power wire

Theres not relays but there is dioades (sp?). If your just running the up and down or neutral return switch that comes with Bennett pump then it wires directly to the switch. If you run the switch that goes on the steering wheel then you have to run dioades.




                         An up and down switch goes like this


                                   Yellow   ign    Blue

                                   Green    ign    Red


I have the diagram for the wheel switch but im to retarded to scan it and post it. If you give me a call i can fax it to you or explain it over the phone. Matt  928-230-4189


                               

                         

Crap, I forgot all about you, my daughter was doing homework until 10PM 

 Plc_Diode_Kit1-1.pdf (174.61 kB - downloaded 840 times.)

GT

Thanks guys, got it wired (direct to the battery, w/ fuse), plummed, drained old fluid and refilled with new ATF. Works perfect and no leaks!

Maybe the wiring diagrams/install instructions should be stickied since they aren't easy to find. Just a thought.

BTW - just a note here....there is no bleeding the system (like you would you car brake system)

just do full up and full down a few times and it works the bubbles out itself.

So its more like bleeding out a power steering pump 

Wow, sombody needs to notifiy PLACE of the mistake on their instruction sheet. The very last two words are "to ignition". We might want to contact SANGER too. I'm sure they'd be greatfull to hear they've been doing it wrong for the last thirty years also.  So, a couple o extra relays and fourty feet of 10ga and they're GTG? Damn, whoda thunkit?