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Messages - Nordic19

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1
I can ditch the valley pan the stock motor had one so I thought I needed one so I ordered it

2
Not really any budget, I had a 21 foot beisemeyer day cruiser with a mild 454 and je-a that was super fun would max out at 60 mph at 4900rpm so I was trying to get the nordic in the 55-60mph range with turn key reliability so I am hoping to end up in the 400-450hp range and run 91 octane. I would like a lopy idle with a larger cam but I don't want to sacrifice reliability. The guy doing the machine work and engine assembly said for 500hp or less I don't need forged piston, he said the ford racing rods and factory crank will be plenty strong, he recommended not doing roller valve train do to the machine work needed on the heads, but he is not sure what a good jet boat cam would be.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / need help with cam and valve train
« on: May 15, 2015, 08:51:39 AM »
I am Rebuilding my 460 and I do not know what cam and valve train to order this is what I have so far.

Ford truck block bored to 4.40
stock crank ground .010
dove heads with hardened seats stock valve size stainless
clevite  cle-cb818hn10 rod bearings
clevite ms1039p10  Main bearings
sealed power h418cp40 Pistons
sealed power e-296k40 rings
closes billet 9-3522x9 timing set
arp 154-7903 oil pump drive shaft
Melling Mel-m84Dhv oil pump
ford racing FMS-m-6003-a429 gasket set
Felpro ms96018 Valley pan
Ford Racing M6200a75 stock length rods
Edelbrock 2166 intake
Holley 750 Dp Carb
Stock fuel pump
Armando’s racing 312 10qt Oil pan and pick-up


Boat 1978 nordic 19’ mini day cruiser jet boat

Jet pump
Berkeley 12JG
with bronze AA impeller jetboat performance Shimmed perfect
Inducer on shaft
Jetboat performance sportsman bowl
stock intake grate
hydraulic place diverter

4
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: CP 460 Ford Thermostat kit
« on: August 01, 2013, 09:01:48 PM »
I would like your drawing I bought this kit bolts to long no directions help!

5
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 29, 2013, 07:27:09 PM »
Pulled the intake tonight found it was so milky that it was sucking milk shake thru the PVC valve. I see no signs of the intake gasket leaking, so that worries me. The aluminum intake definitely flexes a little I noticed while pulling it. I don't know if I should pull the heads and look or just slap the intake back on and pressure test the motor. Any advice would be helpful here are pictures.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 29, 2013, 07:20:25 PM »
I knew you where kidding riptide84 I have been wishing for a 454 lately lol

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 29, 2013, 09:40:52 AM »
This is my first boat with a ford I had a 350,454 and a 502 previously and they where all fine everyone needed some work from time to time. I found that the ford can make a impressive stroker big cube with less work then a 454. But I need to get the boat reliable before I start modifying it. It only has a 3 point mount on the motor, needs a new interior and a wet sand and buff before I start chasing mph. Going fast in a boat is expensive, I did that road before. I just want turn key reliable.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 10:14:43 PM »
Gt jets can you tell me why the old intake had 3 ports I believe the front and back are for cooling water and center for some exhaust cross over. And the new intake blocks the rear ports and the center is there but it sounds like you just leave it block I just hope this isn't causing some of the problems

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 10:04:30 PM »
So the cast iron manifold held the gasket better so I will need to install the gate valve and change the intake gasket again.

Maybe you can answer another question I had a 21 beismeyer day cruiser with a stock 454 berkley jet no diverter and it did 63 on GPS at 5000rpm this nordic only did 53 on GPS it's a lighter boat does the jet need a rebuild

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 09:58:00 PM »
I can cancel the order I just want to have the boat fixed and running good so I can get the interior re done I get the gate valve thing but it looks like its run this way for a long time with out a gate valve it dint have one when I bought it so is there a gasket blown out and what kind should I use

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 09:51:38 PM »
Will that intake work and how is the water getting in the oil

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 09:49:02 PM »
I ordered it all from cp performance I got the dump fitting to pipe the relief valve out of the boat
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-410-water-pressure-relief-kit.aspx
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-14351-polished-aluminum-460-ford-thermostat-kit.aspx

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 09:31:58 PM »
Alright I ordered a thermostat kit and presure relief kit a bulk head dump and a water presure gauge. How do I know where the water is getting in

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 08:16:28 PM »
Temp gauge never moves while boat is running if you shut the boat of and let it sit with the key on it will read temp tell you start the motor and it cools again

15
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Milk shake oil
« on: July 28, 2013, 07:11:45 PM »
I need advice I purchase my 2nd jet boat it's a 1978 nordic mini day it has a 460 ford and a 12jg-a berk. I bought the boat from the original owner, and made a bad purchase I paid to much for the boat and now every trip out is a epic fail.
I brought the boat home from mo with out water testing it the original owner was 93 so I took his word that it ran good. Upon bringing it home we rebuilt the carb and added a edelbrock performer 460 manifold, place diverter, recabled the entire boat, added a gas pedal, changed oil, greased and fixed wiring, removed old carpet.

First water test oil started bubbling out between head and intake, water in oil, found blown intake gasket right bank. I figured I purchased the wrong  gaskets cause there was no hole in the middle for the cross over port. Well new gaskets came and we installed them the middle cross over port is now blocked by the gasket and the rear water ports can't flow thru the manifold cause there is no port.

2nd water test when secondaries open motor would die if you din't let of the gas installed fuel presure gauge presure at 5psi wide open was adjusting rear float and boat started on fire. Lucky  fire extingusure and bucket handy! Retired burn't harness and replaced melted hoses.

3rd water test boat  still would die when 4 barrels opened removed rear float bowl found rubber in bowl. Replace all fuel lines and filter tanks are aluminum and clean.

4th water test boat ran good 53 on GPS 4800rpm tied to dock came out next morning and boat had sank. Lucky it was shallow. Re floated boat towed to trailer found gasket on transom rotted out. Replaced gasket and installed auto bilge pump, changed oil, oil filter and battery.

5th time out boat running good then when letting of gas it would stall found lots of steam coming out of breather. Checked oil and white pulled to trailer (FRUSTRATED)!

My cooling system is piped from jet to a "t" no gate valve then from the "t" one hose to the front bottom of each manifold (log style thru transome.) then from the front top of the manifold to the water pump block off plate, then out the housing on the front of the intake manifold to the back of the "p" trap.

I need to know how to figure out how the water is getting in the oil, how to pipe the cooling system if its not right and if this is the right intake manifold for the boat even though it only has one cooling passage.

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