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Messages - torquer460

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: BBF oil pan
« on: August 23, 2018, 03:58:14 PM »
I am running a Canton 9qt pan that is same depth(no sump). It has eternal bafling and windage tray. Boat is 77 Charger 21'. Have not had any problems, with pulls to 5500rpm, pulling tubers, etc. Pan just clears hull rise at pump. I mocked engine with pan on before i permanently mounted it. Can get you model # if u like.

2
Projects / Re: Will a 351 fit a 460 bellhousing or does it have to be the 351 m
« on: March 16, 2018, 09:44:10 AM »
The 351M and 460 share same bellhousing pattern. The 351w is different.

3
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: New build disappointment
« on: May 26, 2014, 09:31:00 AM »
Nothing is accurate in this situation? His or mine? Look at the specs quoted for his situation, with mildly ported stock heads and no more cam and compression than he has a bigger carb does nothing worth spending big bucks on. Someone recommended a 1050 dominator, only with serious port work, bigger valves and more cam would this be feasable. Using Holley's CFM formula even 850 is to big. I run a 750 vac sec carb to help achive some economy as this motor drinks enough gas as it is much less pay $500.00 for a double pumper. The Panther logs i run had serious port match problems to the heads. I used gaskets and opened up head ports as well as log ports and could tell big difference in performance. I did extensive porting and polishing to this heads. My mini cruiser seats up to 8 passengers, holds 50 gallons gas and sometimes pulls 2 to 3 skiers, I need all the low end grunt I can get. Idle is just fine and boat launches like a rocket. I live where summers are 100-105 deg. at 1800' altitude. Just trying to help the guy out with what worked for me. JUST MY OPINION

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: New build disappointment
« on: May 25, 2014, 07:45:38 AM »
Cam specs dont sound right not enough lift for duration, 850 carb is plenty with right jetting, dont lock out mechanical advance, timing should be 10 to 12 degrees with 36 to 38 total in by 2800 to 3000rpms. Logs at least should be port matched and opened up as far in as possible. Dont know much about stealth intake. Ive run bbf for years my new 502 runs a edelbrock rpm manifold, 750 vac. sec. holley, msd dist. & 6A box, ported dove heads, 10 to 1 comp, 270-280 dur. @ .513-.520 lift comp cam. My 21' charger runs 63mph @ 5200rpms thru a panther pump shooting 65-80' @ 10' high rooster.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carburetion
« on: March 17, 2012, 01:14:15 PM »
Just for your info, Quadrajets are known for leaking fuel from the bowl thru the throttle plate. There are a set of casting plugs in the bottom of the fuel bowl that over time can leak. The fix is to use 5 minute epoxy and seal them.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: BBF oil pan question
« on: March 17, 2012, 10:58:03 AM »
The Milodon oil pans look to be the same depth front to back but if you look closely they are slightly deeper in the front.
The pickup extends to the back of the pan, unless your engine is mounted at a steaper angle or transversed like in a
drag boat, the oil stays in front due to internal baffles. I put this pan on my 460 and it worked fine up till 2500rpms after that
oil pressure dropped like a rock. Put stock oil pan back on and oil pressure was fine but 2 days latter rods started knocking.
Rebuilt motor and I found a Canton Racing Marine pan that has trap doors to keep oil in middle of pan which is where pickup
is located. It works great with no oil pressure problems, and get this its cheaper then the milodon. Summit Racing has these
pans for $346.00 and pickup for $64.00. Capacity is 8qts with filter and I run a Mellings High Volume pump. Hope this helps.

7
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: oil pan
« on: November 09, 2010, 02:02:46 PM »

  The issue with the Milodon is not that wont fit. I installed it along with the proper pickup and new pump and at 3000rpm and
  above oil pressure dropped dramatically. The pan has a front sump but a rear pickup, and i discovered most of the oil was
  staying in the sump therfore at high rpms engine starved for oil. Put stock pan and pickup back on, oil pressure was fine
  except  a few hours later rods start knocking. Motor was 33 years old  so i did an overhaul and went with the Canton pan
  and it works great.

8
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: oil pan
« on: November 09, 2010, 10:19:22 AM »
  I am running a Canton Racing 10 qt that has internal baffles and windage tray, its 7 3/4 inch deep, on a 77 Charger Day Cruiser
  with a 502 ford. I purchased the Canton pump pickup as well. It fits just fine although a little snug at back of pan. What ever
  you do dont buy a Milodon marine pan for a 460 its not designed to work on forward facing engines.

9
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mo' RPeeeeeM's?
« on: September 29, 2010, 11:46:12 AM »
I am in a similar situation with my 21' charger. The Panther pump is fresh with a bronze sleeve, blueprinted, and jeto. Just installed a 502ci ford
that is balanced, seriously ported heads, 10/1 compression, a degreed comp cam( 270-280 dur, 538-554 lift ), Edelbrock Performer RPM, roller
rockers, 12 deg initial- 36 total timing, and 750 vac sec Holley. Machinist with dyno estimates 500hp. Engine is very strong and tune is good
but at WOT 60mph at 5000rpm is all it will do. I am thinking I need at least an 850cfm Dp or possibly street avenger carb.  Any suggestions.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Wont Idle???
« on: July 28, 2010, 04:14:16 PM »
Quote from: 79charger on July 28, 2010, 01:58:11 PM
I used rotella which has zinc in it and ran the motor for 2000 rpms for 25 minutes . As far as cam lube goes i would hope the builder used it .

Rotella is good. You might ask him about spring pressure, I seen where to much pressure (at enitial startup) can cause problems along with bad
valve train geometry and/or to much preload can cause excessive wear.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What options do i have for a larger oil pan
« on: July 28, 2010, 06:16:26 AM »
Quote from: Brendella Pickle on July 27, 2010, 05:56:53 PM
Sounds like maybe you had a v-drive pan

I called milodon and they said it should have worked in my boat with flywheel aft but it did not. but i believe you are probably right.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Wont Idle???
« on: July 28, 2010, 06:07:16 AM »
Quote from: 79charger on July 28, 2010, 01:49:47 AM
no , oil was clean for the most part .I think he used the wrong lifters or pushrods .....
[/q

be sure and add a breakin additive that has zinc in it. i also run a heavy duty diesel motor oil in my 502 bbf because it still has the
additives needed to lube flat tappet cams. most oils now days do not. it is very critical on a new cam. be sure and run the cam
manufactors lifters or ones they suggest. run it at 2000rpms for first 20 minutes.  be sure cam and lifters are installed using the cam
lube supplied with it.

 ps: is your boat made by charger? mine is a 77 charger 21'

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What options do i have for a larger oil pan
« on: July 27, 2010, 04:21:25 PM »
I tried the milodon marine pan on my 460 and lost oil pressure above 3000 rpms. could not figure out why until i studied the design.
pan is deeper in front but has pickup in rear, my engine sits almost level. pan is designed for engine at a severe angle to keep oil in back. i went to a canton marine pan that is same depth front to back, has pickup in middle with baffles. i am running a high volume
pump and have not had any problems. oil pressure is 40 at idle and 65 to 70 off idle.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What options do i have for a larger oil pan
« on: July 27, 2010, 04:13:19 PM »
Quote from: IRRebel on July 26, 2010, 10:21:44 PM
This is like the 3rd person I've heard this from (Actually, 'lectro and I have a running arguement on this) on the Milodon pan. Granted, My experience has been one, so has 'Lectras, but mine worked, to 6500 rpm, and still works flawlessly. I think the wrong pickup is being used (on the wrong pump, in one case I know of) or attention not being paid to the close proximity of the dipstick to the hole for it at the front of the windage tray upon assembly. Hence false oil readings. Not gonna go into what happens when way too much oil is in the engine. Have to be REAL careful on the 460 to bend or form the oil stick tube to direct the stick to the very front of the engine with these, or the Armando, or Dooley, pans........ I have all three, trust me, it is a COMMON PROBLEM. Careful asembly, is all I can say. I installed my Milodon 3 times on the engine stand before I figured out what was going on with the diptick, among other things.

I cut the same center cross member out and used a piece of resined plywood to support the 1/4 stringers when I did it. worked fine. Once Moo is back together (Unrelated issue blew it up), it will be extremely similar and run as it did for the last almost 2 years.  Do NOT be afraid of the JBP or Milodon Pans!

Ray

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Jet Pumps / Re: panther pump question
« on: July 09, 2010, 01:30:07 PM »
Hey guys i am new to the forum. I have been reading all the posts about panther jet pumps with interest as i own one in a 21', 1977
Charger Day Cruiser with a 460. In 2009 after 32 years of problem free performance i sent the pump to Panther Jet for a rebuild,
performance sleeve and jet-o-vator. The pump in its wore out state pushed the boat to a speed of 55mph, never cavitated, launched
hard. I felt like it was time for a rebuild and wanted added performance. What i got was a pump that wont do 40mph, cavitates at
takeoff and under hard acceleration and a jet-o-vator thats worthless. Steve at Panther Jet was working with me to address the problems until the motor developed oiling issues. This spring i put in a 502 stroker 460 and tried to contact Steve but found out he is
gone. Tried to get help in addressing the pump issues but the are blowing me off and telling me i caused my own problems and the
pump is no longer in warranty. The cavitation is pretty bad and i am at a lost as what to do. If any one could give me some help i
would appreciate it.

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