101
Interior / Re: new steering
« on: May 30, 2009, 12:32:28 PM »
Looks good !
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102
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: 1310 driveline and pto
« on: May 29, 2009, 10:29:21 AM »
You might want to identify what engine the PTO needs to fit and whether its for a flexplate or flywheel. 
103
Interior / Re: new steering
« on: May 24, 2009, 10:15:49 AM »that would make sence! the new one has a round tapered shaft and the old one is square! the bad thing is i need it now so its back toriging it. i want to float that thing tomarrow. ill be calling tom on tuesday thanks for all your help fellas!!
I wish I had seen this post earlier. You should NOT take the boat out rigged that way. Too much depends on the steering to take that chance. Lives depend on it. I hope the holes you drilled have not compromised the integrity of the steering shaft.
You might just call Rex Marine for that part. Pretty much guarantee it will be in stock. They should also be able to tell you if there is a matching bezel available for that helm.
104
Interior / Re: new steering
« on: May 23, 2009, 05:58:54 PM »I think you need to make sure your rack is under the helm, other wies steering will be reversed. I think thats how it goes, under the rack. Quick check before you head out to the water. You wouldnt be the first to have it backwards, I think three or four of us have done it including myself.
The placement of the rack to helm will depend on several things: which direction the cable is routed from helm(left or right) and which side of the pump the cable connects to( a stock JC/JG connects on left, a stock JE/JF connects on the right. With a JC/JG style, and cable exiting to left side, rack should be below. With the JE/JF, and cable exiting to the left, rack is mounted to top side of helm.
Best advice is to check and double check that the nozzle swings to right when wheel is turned right and to the left when wheel is turned left.
105
Interior / Re: new steering
« on: May 23, 2009, 05:50:57 PM »i think i might be missing something? so i drilled and taped a hole in the shaft 1/4 20 then drilled a small hole right next to it and put a pin to hold everything together i hope it works. i hate to
STOP!!!!!!!!!!!
You are going about this WRONG! It appears you are switching from a Mercury Marine rack&pinion. That unit used a tapered square shaft. You Teleflex should be a tapered shaft(or is that one a straight round shaft I see?) with keyway. All you need to properly connect your steering wheel is the correct adapter(the tapered aluminum piece you show on the helm in pic 2). They are available at most any performance marine outlet. This page at Rex Marine should give you an idea of what you need. Steering adapters
I've mentioned this before, but these are the "extras" that no one ever seems to consider when pricing out steering changeovers.
106
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine mounts
« on: May 18, 2009, 08:35:14 PM »Thanks for the info OS. I also saw in an old thread that Jim Brock has a jig for setting up BB Chevy's. Could I still use that jig or would I need to get the cast mounts and use those to determine offsets etc? I checked out the pricing on the Rex website - OUCH!
At least they are right next door if we do have to buy them new. Anyone got a set laying around they are wanting to get rid of?
Not sure if Jim's jig would work but might be worth a call.
Rex Marine is a good place. Very helpful staff. I usually stop in everytime I find myself in SoCal, and order from them fairly often even though I am within driving distance of a similar shop (CP Performance) here in NorCal
You should be able to find a set of the mounts used and probably reasonably local. I have a set left over after converting to a rail set up. If you can't find something closer, let me know. Just think shipping would be rather pricy due to size.
107
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine mounts
« on: May 18, 2009, 07:37:36 PM »
Frank, the cast aluminum mounting feet you have are designed to be used with cast aluminum mounting plates like the ones here at Rex Marine, for example. They were not intended to be used with flate aluminum plate-type fabricated motor plates.
With the cast motor plates, the surface the mounting feet bolt to is 1/2" BEHIND the bellhousing face and 1/2" AHEAD of the front face of the block. That means a BBC will have a mounting foot spacing of approx 24.6"(23.6" for motor and 1/2" at each end) from front of front foot to front of rear foot.
By the dimensions you gave for those feet, I suspect the previous engine was an Oldsmobile. One positive is that the Olds and Chevy should be the same distance from the pump IF they both were/are used with flywheel or both were/are used with flexplate. Most Olds seemed to use a flywheel. If your BBC uses a flexplate, you should be OK, but don't let the driveline run too far from full engagement on pump shaft. The best approach here is to get the correct mounts for the BBC, as well as the flexplate/flywheel you plan to use and the appropriate PTO and bolt everything together for a test fit. MAKE SURE THE DRIVELINE DOES NOT BOTTOM OUT ON THE PUMP SHAFT! A 1/4" or so from bottomed out is about right.
EDIT: Just pulled out some notes on a previous boat and found that the Olds mount spacing was ~25.25" so Im not sure what those mounts would have fit. Notch for starter is also on the wrong side for an Olds. Maybe it was a Ford 460? Still start by bolting up the parts you plan to use and then bolt the bellhousing to the rear feet and see where that leaves you.
With the cast motor plates, the surface the mounting feet bolt to is 1/2" BEHIND the bellhousing face and 1/2" AHEAD of the front face of the block. That means a BBC will have a mounting foot spacing of approx 24.6"(23.6" for motor and 1/2" at each end) from front of front foot to front of rear foot.
By the dimensions you gave for those feet, I suspect the previous engine was an Oldsmobile. One positive is that the Olds and Chevy should be the same distance from the pump IF they both were/are used with flywheel or both were/are used with flexplate. Most Olds seemed to use a flywheel. If your BBC uses a flexplate, you should be OK, but don't let the driveline run too far from full engagement on pump shaft. The best approach here is to get the correct mounts for the BBC, as well as the flexplate/flywheel you plan to use and the appropriate PTO and bolt everything together for a test fit. MAKE SURE THE DRIVELINE DOES NOT BOTTOM OUT ON THE PUMP SHAFT! A 1/4" or so from bottomed out is about right.
EDIT: Just pulled out some notes on a previous boat and found that the Olds mount spacing was ~25.25" so Im not sure what those mounts would have fit. Notch for starter is also on the wrong side for an Olds. Maybe it was a Ford 460? Still start by bolting up the parts you plan to use and then bolt the bellhousing to the rear feet and see where that leaves you.
108
Jet Pumps / Re: tap location for suction housing psi
« on: May 12, 2009, 08:11:30 PM »
Is that 3rd line for bowl pressure ?
Yes. This was a friend's dragboat and it was equipped with an Edelbrock QuikData unit.
109
Jet Pumps / Re: tap location for suction housing psi
« on: May 12, 2009, 07:40:58 PM »
Not my pump, but it shows the locations recommended by one of SoCal's premiere pump professionals. This is approx 1" ahead of the wear ring. If you go 2", you will have to move both taps a lot closer to the pump centerline, kind of working against the idea of a top and bottom pressure reading.
110
WTB / Re: looking for a berk diverter
« on: April 09, 2009, 10:07:51 AM »Are you looking for this?
That's not a "diverter" as in Place Diverter. That would be a stock Berkeley "F" trimmable nozzle. It works, but is a bit "clumsy" compared to the Place unit. Also, there are no replacement parts available for the main components should they break. The "yoke", or gimbal, seems to be the most susceptible to failure. I've seen many requests on various boat board through the years for that specific part.
111
WTB / Re: looking for a berk diverter
« on: April 09, 2009, 10:01:23 AM »Repoman: they arent the same....the reverse bucket controls are very different between the two.
...As is the steering connection.
Having converted a C/G style diverter to an E/F style, I can tell you it's not worth the trouble. The only part that is reused without modification is the trim nozzle. The tiller and reverse bracket and reverse bucket are different and the steering nozzle needs to be machined to accept the E steering bracket. Just buy an E style diverter and be done.
112
Interior / Re: Steering cable
« on: April 05, 2009, 05:39:51 PM »The steering in the Hondo has been stiff for a while now, so I decided to pull the rack and cable assembly. The rack is a Kiekhaefer/Mercury with a Ride Guide cable. The rack looks to be in excellent condition but the cable will not move by hand.
From what I've been able to determine the cables have been disconntinued (I'll call Tom tomorrow)
If anyone have a suggestion, please let me know.
In the mid-90's I needed a cable for the same system. All the hot rod boat shops in my area told me that cables weren't available and I would have to buy a complete new system. They were wrong. I went to a regular marine parts dealer and not only did he have Mercury Quicksilver cables, but also a box of the "racks" that the cable connects to inside the helm. Price out the door was less than a new system and all the additional parts required to go with it. From the looks of your steering extension, You'll be into some bucks to retrofit a new setup.
So, if you want to try checking, it was:
Park Presidio Marine(located in San Francisco)
(415) 821-2628
I --might-- still have my old setup in the garage(I saved it, but scrapped the boat). It only had about 5 summers of light use on it. If it's the same length cable you need, you can have the whole deal for the cost of shipping. Just measure the length of the cable housing and let me know.
nah...thats anything but standard...the pump end is standard. but the wheel side is nothing i have seen before...its not a rotory or rack style.....good luck....let us know what ya find!
Brad, that was a very common system back in the day..... Much beefier than the "rack-in-the-box" type systems available today.
113
Sand / Re: Anybody check there u joints lately
« on: April 04, 2009, 09:49:57 PM »
now there is one thing i dont understand, why dont they have zerk fittings so this problem can be kept to a safer level?
I am real surprised i didnt throw that drive line right out from under the truck. I think they might even be the original U joints..
As a Toyota tech, I can tell you that only the 4 x 4 drivelines have greaseable u-joints. Been that way for as long as I can remember. I can't remember the laast time I had to replace a u-joint on any Toyota truck......
When you use a heavy-duty, non-greasable joint, it doesn't hurt to pull the caps and add a little grease before assembly.
114
WTB / Re: A N Bulkhead fitting
« on: March 01, 2009, 03:14:52 PM »
I would CALL Dave at www.sweetperformance.com.
I have also used these guys for black fittings...... http://www.anplumbing.com/
BTW, not all black fittings/adapters use the same finish. For the sake of appearance, you should get all from the same brand.
I have also used these guys for black fittings...... http://www.anplumbing.com/
BTW, not all black fittings/adapters use the same finish. For the sake of appearance, you should get all from the same brand.
115
WTB / Re: A N Bulkhead fitting
« on: March 01, 2009, 03:07:56 PM »
You haven't mentioned what size you are working with.
116
Projects / Re: Nick's Hallett Resto
« on: February 15, 2009, 10:27:17 PM »
ooops.....nevermind....
117
Projects / Re: 1984 MANTRA project
« on: February 02, 2009, 06:40:06 PM »Still unable to find FIR lumber in the state of Indiana, don't know what to do....anyone have any ideas?
Call Duane at Hi-Tech Performance. He is located next door in Missouri, and does business with several boat builders. He should be able to point you in the right direction. He is also a good source for boat/pump parts and info.
118
The No Wake Zone / Re: Eliminator Sprint
« on: January 26, 2009, 09:33:33 AM »Carrera , Eliminator , and I want to say Daytona splashed that boat .
-beerjet-
Other than the foredeck, the Eliminator Sprint and the Daytona Sprint are two totally different hulls. The Daytona Sprint is much narrower at the rear than the Eliminator. The Daytona Sprint was layed up by Sundown Marine from molds aquired from Beismeyer.
As for the similarity between the Carrera and the Eliminator, I can only tell that they appear to share the Beismeyer foredeck. The Carrera is substantially deeper than the Eliminator, and quite possibly longer.
119
The No Wake Zone / Re: Eliminator Sprint
« on: January 24, 2009, 09:06:53 PM »Any body have pics of an 1976 Eliminator Sprint.
I'm not sure the "Sprint" was made that early. The oldest I've seen is a 78(I have an 80). Many people mistakenly refer to the 18 Bubbledeck as a "Sprint", and I've seen those from as early as 75.
120
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mark IV vs Gen 6
« on: December 03, 2008, 10:55:41 AM »So early Gen 6 wont have a fuel pump boss but the early ones will
-beerjet-
To the best of my knowledge, only the "service replacement" Gen VI blocks are machined for a fuel pump. They were available at least as early as 1999 for the 427/454 according to my GMPP catalogs.
This does not mean that any of the "production" engines installed on the assembly line ever had that machined fuel pump pad, nor does it mean that they didn't. A GM parts guy could more accurately answer that question.
BTW, "service replacement" means the part in question was intended for use in the repair industry for original parts that were no longer available(as in the MarkIV block) or where the manufacturer decided to use one part to cover a wider range of original part numbers. As a mechanic, I see this all the time.
121
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Mark IV vs Gen 6
« on: December 03, 2008, 12:30:08 AM »
Probably the best thing to do to try and make sense of all the differences is to go to a Chevy dealer and pick up a copy of the latest "Performance Parts" catalog. That way you get pictures to go with the descriptions.
The Gen VI 454 has the same bore and stroke as the Mark IV 454.The larger bore is only on the 502.
In general, the Mark IV pans will not work on a "production" Gen VI. This due in the most part to the Gen VI having a one-piece rear main seal which results in a differently shaped rear main cap. Timing cover design is also different, although the early covers will fit by just drilling and tapping a few holes.
Current Gen VI 454 blocks have a fuel pump pad. This was required when the last of the Mark IV 454 blocks were used up and GM still needed a "service replacement block" to take care of all 454 replacement needs. Originally the fuel pump pad was eliminated when the change to fuel injection was made. Saved money on machining and eliminated a potential source of warranty claims for oil leaks from a block-off plate and gasket.
When you start getting into the various levels of "performance" blocks, things get a little more complicated........
The Gen VI 454 has the same bore and stroke as the Mark IV 454.The larger bore is only on the 502.
In general, the Mark IV pans will not work on a "production" Gen VI. This due in the most part to the Gen VI having a one-piece rear main seal which results in a differently shaped rear main cap. Timing cover design is also different, although the early covers will fit by just drilling and tapping a few holes.
Current Gen VI 454 blocks have a fuel pump pad. This was required when the last of the Mark IV 454 blocks were used up and GM still needed a "service replacement block" to take care of all 454 replacement needs. Originally the fuel pump pad was eliminated when the change to fuel injection was made. Saved money on machining and eliminated a potential source of warranty claims for oil leaks from a block-off plate and gasket.
When you start getting into the various levels of "performance" blocks, things get a little more complicated........
122
Jet Pumps / Re: Loader Removal
« on: December 03, 2008, 12:04:44 AM »
There's a huge difference between rock grates held in with the original 1/4" stainless screws and the demand a loader puts on the mounting hardware.
I don't know about the circle races but NJBA(and I suspect, IHBA) both require loaders to be through bolted with 5/16" hardware. Stainless is NOT allowed.
20 -30 years ago, speeds/acceleration/HP were lower and as a result the hardware was not being put to anywhere near the stress that it is today.
I don't know about the circle races but NJBA(and I suspect, IHBA) both require loaders to be through bolted with 5/16" hardware. Stainless is NOT allowed.
20 -30 years ago, speeds/acceleration/HP were lower and as a result the hardware was not being put to anywhere near the stress that it is today.
123
Jet Pumps / Re: Loader Removal
« on: December 02, 2008, 10:09:34 PM »Put in some stainless ones w/ antisieze on 'em
Negative on the stainless for loader hardware. Typical stainless hardware is not strong enough to be safe in that application.
Best choice is the black oxide flathead allens although someone once said they found Grade 8 stainless, but never said where they found it.
It goes without saying that these bolts should be checked regularly---like every trip.
124
Jet Pumps / Re: Loader Removal
« on: December 01, 2008, 03:56:07 PM »They are straight slot stainless bolts and when I went to turn them, they twisted the end of my screwdriver. Thats why I double nutted it from the top and broke two of them loose that way. Tomarrow I will get a screwdriver with a 1/2" blade or grind a chisel down to fit. Maybe one of those impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer might do the trick. I put some penitrating oil on today, so hopfully that will help too.
You are on the right track with the penetrating oil and the impact driver. You may also want to try adding a little heat via a basic propane torch. Since it sounds like someone has already done the proper thing by drilling AND tapping the intake, PLEASE resist the temptation to just drill out the screws and then drill through the intake. The fasteners should thread into the intake and be locked in place with the nuts. This is far better than an unthreaded hole in the intake .
When you reassemble, use the black oxide 5/16" flat head allens. Do not use stainless. Put some anti-sieze on the bolts.