What sort of HP differance (everything else being equal) would
you expect to see between the Edelbrock RPM heads and the
Trick Flow streets?

Thank you all for your input!   The heads will stay as they are.

Now you opened up another question....see next post

Woooooow fellows.  I'm not talking about a full blown port job.  I'm talking about
port matching to my logs.    Just trimming the black area in the picture on the heads.

I would never consider trying to race port them, they would go to a pro.  I don't
have the exhaust to make that worth while at this point.

I'm just trying to optimize what I have.

What do you think?

Would someone with head porting experiance please let me know what you think of the picture.
I heard the Edelbrock heads make more HP if you don't remove the material from the bottom of the head port. Note the black area where the exhaust logs are larger than the head port.

This is in a boat, rpms run to 5200. Should I port match them over the winter or do you guys think that would be a mistake?

It's a 460 with long bolt logs

Thank you in advance.

I think you made a good choice on the 460.  I had a 1970 429 in my cv 23 for 2 years
before it broke a rod.   It was a stock short block from the junk yard with 21000 miles.

I heard the rumors they liked to break rods but I never ran over 4600 rpms so I went
with it.  I paid $50.00 for it, how times change....

Yes that setup was how it came from the factory.   The temps were around 160 to 170 early in the season and 170 to 190 late.   The problem with it was the temp would spike when dropping off plane and you would have to cool it back down.   

The jet inlet came to the water pump cover at the top.  The front line was to let water into the manifolds when the thermostat was shut.

The other problem this boat had was the thermostat would snap shut as soon as the cold lake water started through it.  It caused the engine to over heat.  That is how I bought the boat for $6500 brand new.  The dealer had the block freeze in an early cold snap, they had the block replaced and couldn't get it to run cool after that.

I bought the boat and tried it out.  I could hear the time bomb ticking so we pulled out the thermostat.  Problem solved.  So I don't know if there is a special marine thermostat but this one had a car type and that was a big mistake.

Here's a picture of what we are running now.  I had to switch the front plate when going to the
long tubes.  This setup on our boat has much more stable temps than the old system. 

I had to go to them to run the stud girdle.  You will NOT have a rocker come loose
with a stud girdle.  I doubt you'll ever break a stud either and I wanted to make sure our paddle
was never used.   

Ok, summer is winding down here in PA.  My thoughts are moving toward upgrading the exhaust
on my CV 23 during the off season.

Does anyone know how the upward style manifolds compare to the long bolt log manifolds flow wise?  I can't use the extreme headers without rebuilding the back of the boat.

 Here's a picture of my boat engine in the original configuration to give you an idea what space I have to work with.  I can do some mods for more room but I don't want the sun deck messed up.  That would bring on the wrath of my wife,  and that ain't gonna happen.

I need something water cooled and compact.  I'm considering GM style with adapters.

What I don't want to do is spend $$$$$ on new manifolds that won't flow any better than the long bolt logs I have now.

 Would it do any good to cut off the rear of the riser to go with the larger exit hose and tips with the long bolts?

Do you know where I could find info from anyone that has done dyno tests with different brand Ex. manifolds?

I've been kicking this idea around and now that the engine is done its time to help it exhale.

Thank you all in advance, any input will be greatly appreciated.

A CV-27 OUTBOARD 

Never heard of such a thing....

If it knocks I take it apart..... no questions asked.
Good luck which ever way you go.

Armondo's racing oil pans
915-849-7622  office
email aroilpans@aol.com

Super nice people to deal with and look at the differance between the Milodon disaster and Armondos

Armondos comes with the pickup.  Milodon was extra.

Milodon caused an oil pressure drop at 4000+ rpms.  No one from milodon knows why and it doesn't happen on all engines??

I never had an issue with Armondos pan, I don't work for them nor know them personally.
This is in hopes it saves one person from going through the crap I did with the Milodon pan.  Thank
God my engine wasn't damaged with the milodon pans issues.

This isn't to say there aren't other excellent pans out there.  I'm just trying to steer you to one of them.

Took it out today with the RPM intake.  I have 78 main jets 82 secondary with the 4.5 hi flow power valves and it went 200 rpms more than the victor.... go figure

I wonder if the port match screwed it up or is it just not high enough rpms to hit it's sweet spot.
It went 5200 rpms today.

I'm done for the summer   

what are you guys running on your 460's?  Not the tunnel ram stuff just single 4 and intake....
I'm trying to get an idea of a jetting and power valve starting point for different intakes and  carbs.
We may all be able to use it.. 

RPMs are between 5-5200 depending on load etc.
If it doesn't respond to the jets and power valve changes I'll just put the Air gap
back on.
Anyone else have any experiance with the Victor?    I'm wondering what jet range I should
be starting out with.  There was a hugh differance in the two intakes as far as the carb setup
goes.