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Messages - electrowoman

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26
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 stroker for a winter project.
« on: January 07, 2011, 11:05:25 PM »
Lem is working with us on the project now.   The heads are the only question at this point.   We are stuck using the long bolt exhaust logs due to the sun deck.   Will the Trick Flow 290 heads work with these logs is the question.   They have CJ exhaust ports.   

The boats are covered up or we'd just do a quick gasket check.   Winter, humbug!

27
Here inlies the problem... both boats are under 3 covers, two inches of snow and it's 17 degrees outside.

That's why I was hoping someone knew if this would work from first hand experiance.   Other wise,  it's going to be a while till we can pull a log and do the gasket match check.

It really sucks in the winter  :banghead:

28
Is anyone running these heads?    :sly:

29
I can't see a boat engine living with a 4 quart oil pan  :screwy:

30
These heads require CJ headers per their spec sheet.   Oh by the way chebby boys we are talking Big Block Ford here...

Does anyone know for SURE,  will the long bolt logs cover the exhaust ports?   I'm hoping someone is using this combination so I don't have to pull a log and compare it to a gasket port.

It's cold outside, thank you in advance!

31
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 stroker for a winter project.
« on: January 04, 2011, 07:58:30 AM »
Thank you both and I understand what you're saying.

I need to know what to stay away from and which combination has worked in boats.

The 460 forum has helped out a lot but I still need a bit more.

With the CID question I was after experianced people who may have found "This is to big"
"This is to small"  "But this one was just right".

Maybe that's to much to hope for.

Which brand crank would you guys recommend versus staying away from?  I've heard some brands need machine work nearly as a rule but I don't know which brands they are.   Are the balanced kits worth the money or aren't they balenced well?   This is the kind of info I need.

If you can point me towards what not to use that would be a big help too.

I'm using scat H beam rods and probe pistons with a stock crank now.   I'm not afraid of either the scat or probe.   So if I can nail down the crank and stroke we're on the way.

Thank you again.
Dave

32
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / 460 stroker for a winter project.
« on: January 01, 2011, 09:13:50 AM »
We are going to try our hand at a stroker build this winter.   This question is pointed
at the guys that have experiance in that department.
I'm after about 600 HP by 5500 RPM's

I have edelbrock 95 cc heads and would like to stay at 10:1 compression.

1.  What brand kits do you recommend or should it be alacart?
     I want to stay with forged pistons and H beam rods.  What do you think about a cast
     versus forged crank staying in the 5500 rpm zone?

2. What cam to use with the set up?

3. What stroke does a jet boat like?   What CID?

I posted this on the 460 forum too.   We are ready to have the block machine work done now but are waiting for all the right info.   What bore etc.

Any help you experianced guys can throw my way will be greatly appreciated.

Dave

33
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 429 engine for my 21 eliminaor
« on: November 14, 2010, 03:07:49 AM »
I'm curious too as the reason for the 460s demise.
I hate to rain on your parade but if that 429 has stock rods and pistons I have a story for you.
I bought my 460 jet in 1977 new.   

When the first 460 broke a cam and cleaned out the bottom end I had a chance to buy a 70 429 with 20 some thousand miles on it for $50.  Everyone told me they were hard on rods.... they were right.
Three years after I put it in a rod broke right above the crank.   :sly:

Go ahead and run that 429 but it's not the 460's fault.   You can have the same issue with the 429 and enjoy less power while you're doing it.

Good luck




34
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: carb hesitation
« on: November 13, 2010, 02:42:49 AM »
If you have a pvc hose on it check that.  If it's getting worse it may be a split hose
and it's splitting more.

35
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: no oil pressure on gauge
« on: November 04, 2010, 09:18:13 AM »
If you want to know for sure like right now...  take the oil pressure sender out and hold a rag over the hole.  Take off the coil wire and have someone just bump the engine over.   If you aren't cleaning up oil you have a problem.

Warning:   Don't look in the hole and have someone else bump it over   ;D


36
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WINTERIZING??
« on: October 20, 2010, 02:24:01 AM »
THAT MAKES SENSE. SO IF I FILL THE TANKS SHOULD I USE THE GAS WITH A BOOSTER WHEN READY?
I dont' know anything about your booster so I can't comment on it.   I don't think I would put it in before storage if it were me though.   I would put it in right before I left for the lake so it would have mix time going down the road.   That again is just my feelings as I know nothing about what you are adding.

37
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WINTERIZING??
« on: October 19, 2010, 08:21:49 PM »
You invite condensation if you don't fill it.    :thumbdown:

38
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WINTERIZING??
« on: October 19, 2010, 11:45:31 AM »
I wouldn't run the engine unless you can bring the oil to operating temp.   That would keep moisture from forming, a short run may do more harm in that regard than good.
Fill your tanks.

39
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WINTERIZING??
« on: October 19, 2010, 09:45:18 AM »
Depends on the temp.  The only part I would skip would be the anti freeze if it isn't cold where you are.
I forgot sta bil for the gas.   That's probably the second most important part.



40
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: WINTERIZING??
« on: October 19, 2010, 02:59:12 AM »
Here in Pa we drain the block, manifolds and blow out the hoses.   Then close it back up and dump in
a 50/50 antifreeze mix.   We don't fill it just about two gallons total between the block and exhaust.

We spray wd 40 on the intake and valve covers.   I leave off the dist cap and put in a paper towel and cover the dist.   I've had condensation under the cap before.   

We also take off the carb, drain it and store it in a plastic bag in the garage.    Like you, we have all exhaust and manifold openings sealed off.

Oh and change the oil, grease the jet and universals.   In other words purge all the water and contaminents out of the system you can.

I've been doing it this way since 1977 with no issues.   ;D


41
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 build
« on: October 19, 2010, 02:41:59 AM »
Pulled my motor today and am planning a build for this winter. Looking for around 500hp

Stock 460 currently, planning on new intake/carb setup and OT headers.
Looking for recommendations on a build to attain the 500hp goal.
I have the D3VE heads so am thinking I might need to go to a different head maybe?
Any suggestions on internals? C/R? Can I get away with stock crank and rods?

Here's the site you need to visit for any 460 build info.  These guys helped me with my last build.
They live and breath the 460 ford.   Look around the site, there is a recipe page for different HP builds.
Paul Kane is there too.   He's a jet boater that helped me with pistons and cam.
www.460ford.com

42
What kits or brands should I go with?  Which one's are balanced?
In other words which one's should I avoid and which one's should I go with?

If you don't know from experiance please don't reply.   I need the advice of those
who have been there done that.

Thank you  :)

43
If the shop owner can't list one issue with anything but your carbs that he fixed then I can't see one reason for you to pay more money.  I agree with you that the plugs were bad due to gas fouling.

Like you said, you paid for a carb rebuild and tune.   That's what he was supposed to provide
for the money you already paid.

Get him to say he did the job incorrectly and he just made it right and you can smile and say
"now what do I owe you"?

I agree, he owes you lost time in your boat.  He won't see that anymore than you don't see you owe
him for faulty workmanship.   

That should be a break even at that point.

Good luck.

44
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: FS: LONG EXHAUST BOLTS
« on: September 16, 2010, 03:41:31 AM »
Two questions,
1.  Do you still have them?
2.  Do you use pay pal?

And here's the bumppppp

45
We are starting to think of this winters project and have settled on a stroker build.
What are you guys running and what do you recommend? 

Gotta go 600 HP.  ::)

What cubes?
Bore
Stroke
Rod length
Pistons?  compression height??
What deck height?

5500 rpm limit, pump gas,

Some of what I have on hand is a victor, rpm air gap, and stealth intakes to pick from in the garage
850 holley
edelbrock 95 cc heads
Full MSD marine ignition
MSD roller rockers and pushrods.
stud girdle

Kit or seperates?   

Already balanced or not??

I need a recipe  ;D

Thanks in advance.   

46
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: GM truck issues
« on: September 08, 2010, 09:06:35 AM »
When the egr valve died on my Blazer I ground it down flat and made an aluminum block off plate.

I put the plate between the manifold and egr valve.   Its still there so the mechanic sees it but it doesn't do anything.

Ya know, that thing never ran as good as it does now.   

That was about 6 years ago  ;D

47
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: TRW pistons L2443N +30
« on: August 21, 2010, 08:25:45 PM »
No, not new.  They have about 4 hours run time.   

48
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: TRW pistons L2443N +30
« on: August 21, 2010, 09:15:59 AM »
New to the forums, rather than post a whole new thread, this one was the first to come up.

I ended up with a set of these pistons, but there is combination of the old TRW (7) and 1 of the Federal Mogul.  Does anyone know if you can combine sets of these?

The TRW are labeled L2443 .030 and the Federal Mogul are L2443NF .030.




I would have given you my old trw pistons for the shipping but mine have the N which is anoher revision from yours.   I have 6 of the  L2443NF .030  if you want them I'll sell for $100.00 delivered.  They are boxed up in the garage not laying around.

49
Outboards / 1996 Johnson 150 fast strike
« on: August 20, 2010, 03:31:37 AM »
This is my brothers bass boat engine.   He had a guy put in a new impeller.  It hasn't pumped water since  :mad:   He works at a local marine shop but I'm starting to wonder if he doesn't just wash boats.

My brother and I took it apart and found the O ring melted in the pump housing.   Got a pump kit today.  Is there something that should go over the water line going to the head or does it just slip inside the pump housing as the lower unit is bolted up?

We have a shop man. but it's clear as mud.   There is a rubber sleave that goes inside the little housing cover on top of the pump.   Is that all there is?




50
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: FS: LONG EXHAUST BOLTS
« on: August 18, 2010, 11:31:52 AM »
 ;D   I'll give you a bump.  If they're here next week maybe I'll help you out. 

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