thats clean.. i like the color combo 

maybe after this season is done or when i have some downtime i can rip it apart and have it painted white/grey and a stripe of orange...

seats are in

Imron is good chit, and not that hard to get your hands on. most auto paint supplys still cary it.

ah i was at the long beach swapmeet and the paint guy only had black imron and tons of ppg,etc.   i just remember the fumes and id guess it was extremely high in ozone eaters. 

makes me want to finish mine hearing about all the fun you're having. 

my dads boat was painted with imron paint.  let me say this paint is freakin BULLETPROOF!  its durable, its resistant to chemicals, and its also flexible when hot or cold.  however it is VERY difficult to work with and im pretty sure its difficult to get as well.  the painter at his work had a hook up and suggested it.  we also had some awlgrip laying around that i used to paint bikes and computer cases and it was pretty durable as well.  there was never a single scratch in the paint ever that i can remember and other than the final cut/buff there was minimal care needed for it to always shine.

This is what had originally been in the boat and it was different so I kept it.  Just try'n to stay nostalgic and diamond stitching is common enough that I didn't want to blend in.

cool.  def looks unique.  kinda modernizes the jetboat side seats a little bit.  which is hard to do since they're round and all teh modern looking interiors are edgy.

haha.  go help that dude out and tell him to buy a 2x4 and put it from the scoop to the deck.  i came home one day and had a lake havasu in my boat cover too.  heh.

more parts showed up today.

steering wheel adapter



and a plate to mount my panther jet MUUUUCH more better than using washers... this should snug everything up nice and tight.  thank you to Cas @ performanceboats for the hookup. 

I'll bet Pat could whip up some spacers for those center risers quicker than I could post this........

Ray

you think so?  or should i just grab these:

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-12819-exhaust-manifold-spacers-12-big-block-chevy.aspx

hope all goes well and a speedy recovery.

If you are making these yourself...Make a flange at the transom point outside. Drill 3 holes each side and use silicone with your ss hardware... I believe you could go this route as well. A transom ring then a transom seal with your exhaust running through it.
http://www.cpperformance.com/c-467-transom-rings.aspx

ahh transom ring seal.  i was wondering what they were called.  so it goes out the back like so:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/schiada/leeannrodie/000_2158.jpg

im thinkin since it will still be at an angle id need to go with the 4 1/2" ID ones.   how well do these seal and am i going to have a hell of a time getting the tube thru the gasket?

I had an old timer that was a carburetor god once tell me the engine load on a generator, axial propeller (aircraft) and/or a pump was approximately 15% greater than that of a direct contact (car, water propeller, tractor) application, and the math always seem to work...

I think it has a lot to do with sustained torque load (the torque requirement does not get any lower the faster you spin).

GT

cool, thanks for the info.  ive been getting a LOT of mixed opinions on what size carb to go with on mine, and then i found the "general rule" with a VE multiplier.  I've always seen the VE be close to 1 or less, never over it.  which is why when i did my 454 * 5000 / 3456 i was using a VE of 1 and that CFM would be my "largest" which put my a 652, and i grabbed a 650 carb.  i had a 750 and i was just gobbling fuel and tuning was a nightmare.  i figured that with a 650 i could keep my velocity up and then jet accordingly. 

so frustating that there isnt a standard. 

then i get my dad who had dual 1050's on his 1471 blown 496 telling me to go big or go home.  haha.