My intent was on log manifold boats, shoulda been more clear, I guess.

Ray

Ray, it doesn't matter whether it is with logs or injected headers. Water flow control should always be on the inlet to the engine and not the outlet. Restriction of outlet flow is just inviting an overpressure situation.

The JE/JF pumps have the same water supply port as the JC/JG.

LEAVE IT ALONE! If your boat's not running hot, acting funky or running like shit, don't f with it.

Ditto this advice.

.........If you have O/T headers, you'll probably want to run a separate valve to control the water flow into the headers. I haven't had good luck with the Bassett or Rewarder spring valves working right, but other than that, no other valves are necessary on the system.

The valve you have is a rudementary way to increase water temps in the engine, but a better way is off the exit side, not the inlet side, if this is an issue.  Or Both.


Ray

Sorry, but what I have highlighted is not just incorrect, but may well be the reason you have had problems with the Bassett and Rewarder "T" valves. Restricting the outlet side of the system can/will lead to overpressure conditions not just in the engine but in all the plumbing between pump and that outlet valve. Put the flow control valve before the engine and that likelyhood will be lessened , if not eliminated. If you have taken the time to read the instructions on Bassetts website regarding OT header plumbing, you will see that they use the valve on the outlet(aka "dump" line) to control the pressure which opens the "T" valve. The more you choke it down to increase temperature, the lower the RPM at which the pressure exceeds the "T" valve spring pressure, potentially opening it at idle which you do not want!

By the way, am I the only one who finds the timing of this announcement "interesting"?
After all, today is April 1st, is it not?

Rex Marine has the old school 3 spokes in several sizes

Brad, what happened to the arcade? That was my favorite way to avoid doing the things I need to do.

The coupler has got to go also. 

If it is complete with the "puck" that goes inside, I will take it off your hands.

Not that part!  I mean initially, when you drop the dizzy in! No matter WHAT MFR of engine, you always start with the Number 1 piston at TDC  to even remotely figure out where the dizzy Rotor should be pointing at, no?

You only need to look at the timing gears to put the engine at TDC #1. That and the valve position when priming the oiling system is all that's needed.  In 30+ years as a tech, I've never used the #1 piston to find tdc #1 position on an engine build. Clearly, however, he did not degree in the cam.

I wonder what he did when he came across that "spare" piston and rod assembly?

looked on the bearings and got a clevite part number and turns out they are standard no crank cut so i can have the crank cut thank god...

I hate to tell you this , but that crank is DONE! Or were you kidding about it cleaning up?

  I just recently installed u-joints in my Avalanche and also in my Crown Vic.

  The parts were only like $9 w/ 1year or $17 for the lifetimes.

  Thing was the cheaper ones had the zerks. Very easy to install in my opinion.

U-joints without the drilling for zerks are stronger. It's also possible that the cheaper ones were made overseas. When it comes to something like u-joints,  for a car or boat, buy the best you can find. Avoid the cheap stuff sold by most chain auto parts stores.

Online Metals sells in any size for a resonable price.
Have you tried lookin for a metal salvage facility near you? They buy up what shops don't need and sell at "scrap" prices. Most major metropolitan areas have something along those lines.

Kreg, your bowl can be repaired. Just needs a new repair sleeve that accepts standard bushings. Had mine done by Jack @ MPD. Think the turnaround was about a week.

i got my seat from a guy over on PB.....cant remember his name....he makes them.....maybe lance (nailhead) will chime in with more info as i have the same seat as he does.

they arent cheap (~$500), but well worth it.

You talking about "Davey B" out in Arizona who does the aluminum framed race seats?

I cant help but think that using a straight snoot the jet stream isnt all the way in the water opposed to where it would be with a droop.

Has nothing to do with it. At higher speeds, the nozzles are completely out of the water.

As has been suggested, borrow a droop and do some testing.