78 tahiti project...

« **Reply #300 on:** June 12, 2012, 07:21:37 AM »

you might just have to sit in the hull cut a little and cut or shave and fit til its where you want it.

« **Reply #301 on:** June 12, 2012, 08:47:59 AM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on June 11, 2012, 11:22:33 PM

motivation:

cutting stringers to the shape of the hull is freakin difficult. going to home depot to get some cheapy easy to cut boards so i can make a template. tried to trace the bottom onto the wood i bought and cut it out using a jigsaw set at the angle of the hull. didnt even come close to matching. siiiigh. expensive firewood.

You could always take a 6-8 foot level which ever fits and lay it in the spot then take measurements every couple inches from the bottom of the level to the hull. Then take your level and set it on the wood bringing it up to the highest measurement an then mark it all out connect the dots and use a belt sander to make a quick pass or two to smooth it out. And if you have to cut an angle on the bottom of the wood take measurements on both sides of the level

Fat fingered from the phone- Corey

« **Reply #302 on:** June 12, 2012, 08:57:25 AM »

Here's a bad drawing as an example

Fat fingered from the phone- Corey

« **Reply #303 on:** June 12, 2012, 12:49:30 PM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on June 10, 2012, 02:51:15 PM

got some goodies this morning...

As i was just laying under the bow of my race boat glassing in the front bulkhead in 100 degree weather, I remembered seeing you had purchased the fast hardener. Any reason why? I am using the slow hardener from west systems and it kicks plenty fast (yes, im not using it in ideal temperatures) but you had mentioned youre trying to get back on the water in a relatively short amount of time. Thus you will be working in warmer and more humid temps than ideal as well - but not the extreme temps im getting here in vegas of course.

Anyways, I was curious as to why the fast stuff? Since you are dealing with a large area to be glassing, that means you have to coat an entire area, then situate the glass, then coat, glass, coat, etc. You are going to want to take youre time doing this. I personally hate being rushed when trying to be meticulous. I think the fast stuff will kick a bit fast for what youre trying to do.

I know everyone has their 2 cents on how to do things around here and I hate it more than anything when youre trying to accomplish something with a peanut gallery pulling you in 20 directions. (see my rocker stud thread) I just figured maybe I could shed some light before you get too deep in this and save you some headaches. Maybe you have a logical reason for using the fast stuff, who knows. Good luck with it

« **Reply #304 on:** June 12, 2012, 01:35:00 PM »

Quote from: Brad @ SCJB on June 12, 2012, 12:49:30 PM

As i was just laying under the bow of my race boat glassing in the front bulkhead in 100 degree weather, I remembered seeing you had purchased the fast hardener. Any reason why? I am using the slow hardener from west systems and it kicks plenty fast (yes, im not using it in ideal temperatures) but you had mentioned youre trying to get back on the water in a relatively short amount of time. Thus you will be working in warmer and more humid temps than ideal as well - but not the extreme temps im getting here in vegas of course.

Anyways, I was curious as to why the fast stuff? Since you are dealing with a large area to be glassing, that means you have to coat an entire area, then situate the glass, then coat, glass, coat, etc. You are going to want to take youre time doing this. I personally hate being rushed when trying to be meticulous. I think the fast stuff will kick a bit fast for what youre trying to do.

I know everyone has their 2 cents on how to do things around here and I hate it more than anything when youre trying to accomplish something with a peanut gallery pulling you in 20 directions. (see my rocker stud thread) I just figured maybe I could shed some light before you get too deep in this and save you some headaches. Maybe you have a logical reason for using the fast stuff, who knows. Good luck with it

i already returned the fast hardener with the slow stuff. i didnt realize i grabbed the wrong one until i took the pic. and yeah last time i did my floor i used their west marine poly resin and i didnt see a "100*+" in the chart for measureing the hardener. a whole cup kicked off in like 2 minutes and melted the cup. haha.

« **Reply #305 on:** June 14, 2012, 02:25:24 PM »

i bought a piece of 1" thick foam and i used it as a template. it was easy to cut and i pretty much shaped it using my bench grinder. ended up with this:

everythings within 1/16" all the way down. lays down PERFECT. gonna eat some lunch and then get back out there, get rid of that gel coated bilge area back down to the glass nice and clean.

im excited to start glassing and see how the boat rides with the changes. i gotta find out something to do about the bilge divider. i want to extend it up somehow as a cover to keep feet out of my balancer/alternator pulley. speaking of which, i gotta figure out how in the hell im gonna mount my alternator with the new front plate mount.

« **Reply #306 on:** June 22, 2012, 11:23:36 PM »

everythings all in. got a boo boo spot up front i need to grind off, but with 3 layers of mat im not too worried about it. they're not going anywhere anytime soon. also need to glass down the 2 seat base mounts to the bottom and countersink 3 "nuts" that the seat will bolt into. got some aluminum angle to bolt to the stringer and then will bolt to that to keep the seats in. they should be SOLID afterwards. also if you peek under the deck i need to cut and glass a piece of wood for my foot pedal base. originally had a floor mount pedal and i dont feel like finding a stringer mount.

also pulled my tanks out. there were 2 gunnel supports that held the tanks from sliding forwards. im gonna put 2 new ones in and then use some leftover plate i have to make "straps" that will hold the tanks in.

unfortunately i leave for hawaii on tuesday. getting married. this project will have to wait until i get back...

« **Reply #307 on:** June 23, 2012, 02:51:47 PM »

Congrats on the marriage! I have an eliminator stringer mount throttle you can have.

« **Reply #308 on:** July 12, 2012, 12:37:54 AM »

well wedding is over...

now back to work!

carpets going in. just trying to get the positioning down.

« **Reply #309 on:** July 13, 2012, 03:55:53 PM »

damnit. i went to glue in my carpet. brushed on the carpet adhesive and it a) doesnt tack up, and b) doesnt even stick to the hull.

fvvck now i gotta wipe all this gooey crap off and waste a whole night for nothing. GRRRR.

« **Reply #310 on:** July 13, 2012, 05:58:43 PM »

U used Chapco trowel on glue for outdoor/all purpose with 3/16 notch trowel, so easy to use.

In fact I got a gallon leftover that would probably do yours...

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« **Reply #311 on:** July 15, 2012, 07:43:44 PM »

slapped some carpet in. smoothed out all the wrinkled edges with some more adhesive.

decided to carpet the tanks too... then i test fit the motor with the plates to see where things line up

then time to start drillin new holes

painted the rest of my junk

thats all for today. gonna pickup some feet to mount the plates to, hopefully set the angle right on the motor, and then start bolting everything up. i wanna make a little "guard" for the front of the motor that just covers the balancer so feet and ice chests dont go flying into it. also picked up some neeto folding cupholders so we can carry more beer.

« **Reply #312 on:** July 15, 2012, 08:28:41 PM »

That looks nice and clean.

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« **Reply #313 on:** July 15, 2012, 10:52:24 PM »

you say your going to set the angle right. i have always wondered what that angle was. do you slide the ujoint in then just eyeball it till it looks straight, then mark the stringers? or is there an angle to set the motor?

obviously the first is not the right way and probably a good way to screw something up. just curious as to the correct way of doing this

« **Reply #314 on:** July 15, 2012, 11:02:01 PM »

Quote from: Rogers Hopeful on July 15, 2012, 10:52:24 PM

you say your going to set the angle right. i have always wondered what that angle was. do you slide the ujoint in then just eyeball it till it looks straight, then mark the stringers? or is there an angle to set the motor?

obviously the first is not the right way and probably a good way to screw something up. just curious as to the correct way of doing this

The angle you will be searching for is "Zero" degrees.

That being said, you really should have approximately a 1.5 degree "offset" at the joints in one plane.

Meaning the motor should be raised/lowered to obtain a +1.5 degree and a -1.5 degree offset.

Hope I didn't confuse....Sorry for the jack kay0tyk

« **Reply #315 on:** July 15, 2012, 11:26:48 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on July 15, 2012, 11:02:01 PM

The angle you will be searching for is "Zero" degrees.

That being said, you really should have approximately a 1.5 degree "offset" at the joints in one plane.

Meaning the motor should be raised/lowered to obtain a +1.5 degree and a -1.5 degree offset.

Hope I didn't confuse....Sorry for the jack kay0tyk

thats exactly what i was going for... setting the motor to the same "angle" (zero) as the pump shaft, just set so that the driveline has a degree or two in it to keep the bearings moving around and lubricated.

what i was thinking of doing taking some plywood and make a "mockup" engine front and back with some 2x4's the length of the block, essentially making a plywood frame "block" and mounting the plates to that so its easy to move around, then taking a PVC pipe thru the "center" of my block where the crank should be and slipping that over the pump shaft. this should put my block exactly the same plane as my pump shaft, then a little math to give me the 1.5* angle in the driveline and drilling the holes in my mounts.

if theres an easier way let me know. i wish i had a junk empty block that was easy to move around but i dont.

« **Reply #316 on:** July 15, 2012, 11:34:56 PM »

ok that makes sense. so the engine hoist "leveler" is your friend!

« **Reply #317 on:** July 16, 2012, 12:55:32 AM »

Quote from: ka0tyk on July 15, 2012, 11:26:48 PM

thats exactly what i was going for... setting the motor to the same "angle" (zero) as the pump shaft, just set so that the driveline has a degree or two in it to keep the bearings moving around and lubricated.

what i was thinking of doing taking some plywood and make a "mockup" engine front and back with some 2x4's the length of the block, essentially making a plywood frame "block" and mounting the plates to that so its easy to move around, then taking a PVC pipe thru the "center" of my block where the crank should be and slipping that over the pump shaft. this should put my block exactly the same plane as my pump shaft, then a little math to give me the 1.5* angle in the driveline and drilling the holes in my mounts.

if theres an easier way let me know. i wish i had a junk empty block that was easy to move around but i dont.

Use the pipe only and make some measurements of the engine so you know where the end of the crank ends up on both ends, then just install it to those measurements.

If I wasn't so tired I would elaborate, but I'm going to bed...

Get you tomorrow.

« **Reply #318 on:** July 16, 2012, 03:25:55 AM »

cant sleep so im watching some overhaulin' and doing a little polishing.

« **Reply #319 on:** July 20, 2012, 11:28:25 AM »

no more leaky fuel pump.

« **Reply #320 on:** July 24, 2012, 03:50:12 PM »

got the rest of my aluminum to make some mounts with. time to break out the angle gauge and mount this sucker in and go boating already.

« **Reply #321 on:** July 24, 2012, 10:41:11 PM »

Get to it!

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« **Reply #322 on:** July 28, 2012, 10:44:56 PM »

mounts are in. what a bitch to get everything lined up, drill holes, trim the plates for the starter and oil filter, etc. but ive already taken the motor out and put it back in like 15 times and its WAAAAAY easier than that 3 point crap i had before. anyone with a 3 point, convert and dont look back.

slapped the seats in just to make sure they still fit.

need to cut some angle and make brackets to bolt to, paint em black, buy more stainless hardware, then done deal.

then what the hell lets put the top up and make it look like we're ready to go boating...

i think i put it on backwards, im not sure. i looked online and i find pix of em going every which way. its fairly sturdy as is and theres a litle sew in "front" tab thats obviously facing the front. im gonna lower it probably a good 6-8 inches, any higher and i think i could airborne with this thing. i cant wait to NOT get sunburned this next trip though.

just need to do some plumbing changes, mount the balancer and alternator, finish the fuel tank straps, make bracket for gas pedal, wire up the motor with a connector at the mount plate so i dont have to undo the whole harness to pull the motor, fill it with oil, put gas in the tanks, set timing and go boating.

« **Reply #323 on:** August 08, 2012, 11:08:34 PM »

wiring's in. tucked in there is the batt pos and neg, alternator charging wire, oil press sender, temp sender, ignition 12v, tach signal, fuel pump pos and neg, and starter solenoid 12v.

« **Reply #324 on:** August 09, 2012, 09:19:38 AM »

Excellent work! Did you get a wiring clip installed? I thought of this too, just unclip and pull the motor.

mobboss

SoCalPSD

SoCalPSD

Brad @ SCJB

ka0tyk

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74hondo

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BIG JOHNSON

ka0tyk

USCvictory

Rogers Hopeful

GT Jets

ka0tyk

Rogers Hopeful

GT Jets

ka0tyk

ka0tyk

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BIG JOHNSON

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