Excellent work! Did you get a wiring clip installed? I thought of this too, just unclip and pull the motor.

I did this with the race boat. Smartest thing I've ever done considering how often I pull the motor out. I used some MSD deutsch connectors.

very very easy to assemble and very durable. no nonsense shit, they just plain work.  Been in the boat 3+ years, still work flawlessly. Been submerged, stepped on, soaked in oil....frozen...high heat...etc.

i didnt, but i could grab one and splice it in somewhere.


took a break from some stuff and broke out the paint on the trailer.  geezus christ it looks 500000x better. 



ill finish up the rest tomorrow. zzz...

followed the whole project, looks good. i have a wriedt which appears to be the same hull and i had a question. you took out the center stringer when you converted from quarter to full stringer, do you get any flex in the hull in choppy water? i was thinking of extending my stringers, but still living the center one in to prevent flex. i know my friends rogers appears to flex even with the longer stringer.

i left the center stringer in place about 2' under the deck.  im going to tie that in with a bulkhead under the dash, which will tie to the 2 full stringers.  im going to take it out this weekend ill follow up with how everything performs. 

i think i got my alternator issue solved.  mounted it to my engine plate, cut off the little spacer from my top mount and then cut a new longer spacer out of some metal i had laying around.  i think its lined up good.  just need to measure for belt length and pick one up.

finishing up the odds and ends.  checked the pump out, everything looks good.  impeller looks great, no chips.



put all new heim joints on the forward/reverse levers. 

went to put on the alternator belt and its short by like 2" so i gotta go to vatozone again.  those fvckers dont have lengths on their boxes, and they're complete morons if they cant look something up in the computer.  im just gonna tow the boat there so i can swap it out to the correct length easily.  unfortunately to get to the belt have to take the crank pulley off because its so tight with the water pump.  then to get that off i have to remove my little motor panel, which means i have to remove the seats.  3 steps back, 1 step forward.

planning on leaving for havasu tomorrow afternoon.  yaaay FINALLY get to use my boat for the first time this season. 

polishing it up for the next trip.  the valve covers are suuuuch a bitch.  aluminum doesnt hold shine nearly as long as stainless steel does.



also putting in my bulkhead finally.  got some chintzy foam board so i can do easy cuts and get everything fitting properly before i glass it in.  leaving a 1/4" all the way around and then tabbing it in.  then its off to find an amp, some 6x9's, going to somehow fab a little subwoofer box up in there, and a little ipod hookup and a dock for my XM radio for the tunes. 

measure twice... threee.... 85 times.  cut once.



good stuff. 

are you going to cut an access hole in the middle of it?

dont forget a bildge plug hole

yeah i put an access hole in the middle and a brass drain sleeve will be glassed in the middle and on each outside of the stringer.

bottom part is done.  got up to get the scissors and cut some pieces for the top, i left the brush in the resin.  turned into a rock on me.  doh!  haha.  ill tab in the top tomorrow after i get some junk brushes from big lots.   

went out today... bulkhead makes a HUGE difference in tying the whole front of the boat together.  i can blast thru chop like its nothing whereas before the stringers and bulkhead it sounded like the boat was about to fall apart. 

putted around belmont shores







back home and all clean.  dont make fun of my "dump" line.  im using the hole in the transom for the pickup for the water pump.  i need to drill a hole in the floor and install my pickup into the bottom of the boat.  the dump is just chillin spittin the water out of the back of the boat. drilling a hole in the bottom of a boat is a pretty stressful thing.  i dont want to mess it up.

time to get my fuel pressure under control. 

I bought the same one from Team C. I kept adjusting pressure down in increments with a jumper on the fuel pump just enough to not have fuel flowing out the carb with pump running. I think its at 7 psi and there's no adjustment left.

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I bought the same one from Team C. I kept adjusting pressure down in increments with a jumper on the fuel pump just enough to not have fuel flowing out the carb with pump running. I think its at 7 psi and there's no adjustment left.

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theres different regulators.  they have a low pressure, a regular, and then a "max pressure" model. 

this one is 4.5-9psi returnless.

shortened my forward reverse lever...



polished my gauge cluster panel dash thingy...



trying to figure out a place to put my pressure regulator... i got the fuel pump, alternator, starter, etc all on the passenger side, its busy... siiigh been playing with ideas in my head.  this would be a LOT easier if my damn intake manifold put my carb in a straight line.  GRR.