I woulde't clearence thos pistons too much being it is a chevy running flat tops! Flat tops in a chevy , what is that 8 to 1 compression?

That's what I was thinking, but the factory pistons are dished I think, I'm pretty sure they're over 9:1, but I haven't done the math on it. It had peanut port heads, and once he got an idea of what sized cam it had he decided that he doesn't want to run those heads at all

replace them start new and rite have spring set spec for you to look at
they have chrome moly retainer and hardened locks dual spring. you can use these
with dfferent set up to 700 lift . Same spring nice tall spring. ON set  inst 1.915@110lb or
1.885 @120lb or 1.845 @135lb  open max lift 1.185 @408lb coil bind 1.105

I would you dont think, you play and not pay did you "'what that you say get in line pay and pay then pray no more bend over drive".  Sell the ones you have with heads

Thanks, but its not a Ford

2sav

There's the problem!!!   

Who knows if it's right or not. I would imagine, since they are not using the marks provided on the keys, that the paint marks would line up 

Who knows if its right if you pull the bolts and rotate it 45 degrees it looks like it would line up. Maybe the cam is right but it wasnt assembled exactly the way it came off

that thing is SO far out it aint funny. that first pic is off by like a hundred degrees, the second is off about 45

x2 ...........when those two marks are lined up it should be top dead 6 (on chevy), but you should still degree it like crewchief22  said.

2sav, with the crankshaft in the position it is in in those pics(keyway pointing up center of #1 cylinder centerline) the dowel in the cam should be at 3 0-clock. This is the point where the marks on the cam and crank gear will be adjacent to each other(crank gear mark straight up, cam gear mark straight down). You are WAY OFF and that will bend lots of valves.

You gotta put a dead stop on #1 piston, turn crank both ways to deadstop (close to TDC) noteing reading on your degree wheel bolted to your crank or balencer. You then set the degree wheel by splitting the difference between the two readings you got earlier On the degree wheel while turning the crank both directions. NOW you have accurate TDC. Next you get out your cam card and figure out at what degree do you have .050 lift on what particular valve. You'll need a dial indicater for this, which can also be used as your dead stop. You then set up a dial indicater on the valve you want to check and rotate the motor untill indicater reads .050 lift, now cheack the degree wheel and see if it matches what your cam card says. The three key ways on your crank sprocket will retard or advance your cam by 4 derees i think it is, you can use this adjustment to put the cam at .050 lift at the specified crank degree. With all this high tech adjusting of the cam it still shouldnt be as much as a tooth off on the sprockets. Also, set your timing marks looking at each other at TDC..... ALWAYS! Your crank sprocket has three keyways, they should be marked with a circle a box and a triangle, if you use the keyway with the box, use the box near the sprocket teeth as your timing mark. This could be your problem, wrong timing mark. The circle will be "O" and the box and trianle will be retard and advanced positions.

Hey 2Sav, I think that cam needs to be degreed 

So,............any progress on getting this cam properly timed so it will be ready for the "degreeing" process?

 Here's pw_Tony fixin my shit!




2sav

I think the cam in Sav boat is comp cam xm278h Hy A impeller( in.564 ex566 )112 lobe sep 2000to6200 rpm spring all most match LS6 seat an open pres. 1.88=1.15  1.750=1.65  1.500 300

This one is correct . Comp Cam
HYDRAULIC-Jet boat with A or B impeller. Hyd. Hyd. 2500 to 6500 11-324-4 292AH 292 296 244 246 .568 .578 110°
Bracket racing or high performance use
2sav