Gate valve

« **Reply #25 on:** April 10, 2014, 09:27:25 PM »

There is no valve that regulates water to the block that's why I put the gate valve in. It's through transom exhaust

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« **Reply #26 on:** April 10, 2014, 09:41:56 PM »

Does it have a thermostat

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« **Reply #27 on:** April 10, 2014, 09:45:47 PM »

Got ya. I had a Tahiti with a BBC through transom headers never had a valve. Well if the valve was wide open and it did the same probly not an inlet issue

« **Reply #28 on:** April 10, 2014, 09:49:35 PM »

I should also say my old boad with no valve had large lines and motor ran at like 100*

« **Reply #29 on:** April 10, 2014, 09:50:46 PM »

Broke a promise by posting...

Can you describe how your system is plumbed?

There is no reason at all that it would run that warm. Something is amiss.

Typical through transom dealio...

Pump-control valve.
Control valve-tee.
Tee-lower hoses of exhaust log X2
Upper hose of exhaust log-front of block X2
Thermostat cover-risers

That's it.

Boat should run about 150 or so with the valve three or four turns open. If it don't, the block could be full of sand, there could be a blocked port somewhere, someone could have stuck a stat in the stat hole (throw it in the rubbish can), your pump's worn out, risers full of garbage, among a few others.

GT

« **Reply #30 on:** April 10, 2014, 10:07:13 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on April 10, 2014, 09:50:46 PM

Broke a promise by posting...

Can you describe how your system is plumbed?

There is no reason at all that it would run that warm. Something is amiss.

Typical through transom dealio...

Pump-control valve.
Control valve-tee.
Tee-lower hoses of exhaust log X2
Upper hose of exhaust log-front of block X2
Thermostat cover-risers

That's it.

Bot should run about 150 or so with the valve three or four turns open. If it don't, the block could be full of sand, there could be a blocked port somewhere, someone could have stuck a stat in the stat hole (throw it in the rubbish can), your pump's worn out, risers full of garbage, among a few others.

GT

Just checked it right now and water lines are run exactly how you stated. There is no thermostat just open. Is it possible that the tee is no good or needs to be rebuilt ?

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« **Reply #31 on:** April 10, 2014, 10:11:37 PM »

Quote from: Havasukona455 on April 10, 2014, 10:07:13 PM

Just checked it right now and water lines are run exactly how you stated. There is no thermostat just open. Is it possible that the tee is no good or needs to be rebuilt ?

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You said through transom exhaust.... Should not be anything in the tee but water....

I would disconnect the riser hoses and put some water through the system with a hose and see what up. There should be little to no restriction. Keep pulling chit apart until it rears it's ugly head.

Also, pull the drain plugs on the block and ensure she isn't full of sediment.

GT

« **Reply #32 on:** April 10, 2014, 10:31:31 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on April 10, 2014, 10:11:37 PM

You said through transom exhaust.... Should not be anything in the tee but water....

I would disconnect the riser hoses and put some water through the system with a hose and see what up. There should be little to no restriction. Keep pulling chit apart until it rears it's ugly head.

Also, pull the drain plugs on the block and ensure she isn't full of sediment.

GT

Yeah I'm gonna start pulling off each hose one at a time and seeing if I can find the problem. Thanks for all your help gt. I'll let you know tomorrow what I find. I'm sure I'll have more questions as well

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« **Reply #33 on:** April 10, 2014, 10:43:38 PM »

Quote from: Havasukona455 on April 10, 2014, 10:31:31 PM

Yeah I'm gonna start pulling off each hose one at a time and seeing if I can find the problem. Thanks for all your help gt. I'll let you know tomorrow what I find. I'm sure I'll have more questions as well

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Anytime.

GT

« **Reply #34 on:** April 10, 2014, 10:50:10 PM »

I'll go with Experience, I have worked with engineers that write up info on parts and assembly's this and that for years. I've found over time these hot shot engineers don't have real world experience sure they are smart as hell and can design some badass things way beyond my capabilities. But when reality hits these parts go with experience.

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« **Reply #35 on:** April 10, 2014, 11:05:28 PM »

From a book I once read..

If today's engineers knew everything, we would never need any new engineers...

I will add this little known tidbit.. The original 3/8" mpt by barb fitting in the OEM Berkeley pumps that all you guys are removing for a piece of pipe had a 1/4" hole in it (some were 5/16").

In most cases, the ones that have had this fitting removed for the pipe are the ones with the most problems.

In some cases, the 1/4" hole would have been drilled out because more is better, right? Just something to think about when you are trying to figure out problems.

Gotta hit the hay... Naptime is callin' my name.

« **Reply #36 on:** April 10, 2014, 11:59:27 PM »

I run a gate valve into a pressure relief valve. Kept milking my oil on my olds so i tore the motor down replaced all gaskets. Opened the gate valve 1 1/4 turn and have havent had a problem since. Idk what the pressure relief valves set at. I put a pressure valve on the intake and I've never seen over 11psi and it runs about 140 ish

« **Reply #37 on:** April 11, 2014, 01:19:16 AM »

Very true GT!
I like to post this at work every once in a while to mess with my engineer buddy's. Maybe it can help a few people here.

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« **Reply #38 on:** April 11, 2014, 08:03:21 AM »

Quote from: Havasukona455 on April 10, 2014, 08:55:09 PM

Well testing went bad. I put the gate valve on before I left opened it about 3/4 and ran the boat for 4 minutes. Before I knew it the temp was at 190 and climbing. Shut it off and let it sit for about ten minutes. Started it back up with the gate valve all the way open and it went down to 140 with the motor at 2k rpms. Less then 30 seconds it's right back up to 190 and climbing 😡. There's gotta be a clogged line right ? Any help would be great guys

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I would suggest that before you start tearing your motor down you verify that the water is actually getting that hot. I had a brand new sending unit from Autometer that was bad out of the box do this to me last your when we were all at Avi. Motor went from stone cold to 200* in under 2 minutes. As soon as the gauge started to move, it would just keep going. I had an IR temp gun with me and when I started checking the motor I couldn't find any spot on the motor that was even at 130* yet. I swapped the sender with one from a buddies boat and problem solved, motor was running 130*.
You said you were running on the trailer to begin with. Did you by chance feel the water exiting the motor? Did if feel hot and was it steaming? Do you have a good flow of water coming out the back? I find it hard to believe your motor can put that much heat in the water if it's flowing at a normal flow. If your actually getting hot, I would think the water flow out the back would be almost nothing. It would have to be almost complete blockage to slow the water long enough to get that much heat in it. I've seen motors in boats that had blown head gaskets bad enough to cut grooves in the block, and not overheat. I'd hate to see you get crazy and tear this thing down over something simple like a gauge or a sender.
See if you can borrow or get one of these and do a little testing,

« **Reply #39 on:** April 11, 2014, 08:40:50 AM »

Quote from: icecreaman on April 11, 2014, 08:03:21 AM

I would suggest that before you start tearing your motor down you verify that the water is actually getting that hot. I had a brand new sending unit from Autometer that was bad out of the box do this to me last your when we were all at Avi. Motor went from stone cold to 200* in under 2 minutes. As soon as the gauge started to move, it would just keep going. I had an IR temp gun with me and when I started checking the motor I couldn't find any spot on the motor that was even at 130* yet. I swapped the sender with one from a buddies boat and problem solved, motor was running 130*.
You said you were running on the trailer to begin with. Did you by chance feel the water exiting the motor? Did if feel hot and was it steaming? Do you have a good flow of water coming out the back? I find it hard to believe your motor can put that much heat in the water if it's flowing at a normal flow. If your actually getting hot, I would think the water flow out the back would be almost nothing. It would have to be almost complete blockage to slow the water long enough to get that much heat in it. I've seen motors in boats that had blown head gaskets bad enough to cut grooves in the block, and not overheat. I'd hate to see you get crazy and tear this thing down over something simple like a gauge or a sender.
See if you can borrow or get one of these and do a little testing,

When I ran it on the hose the water coming out of the exhaust wasn't much but I found out my brother only turned the hose on a full turn and that's it so I figured that was the problem. Yesterday we ran it in the water. I have two sending units one is on the manifold and one is on the right side of the head when it was reading 220 it was on the manifold then I let it sit for about 10 minutes and put the lead on the sending unit off the head it read 180. Fired it back up and the temp went down at 2k rpms to 140 but still climbed back up to 190 after 20 seconds of idling. There's water coming out of the exhaust but I'm not sure how much should

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« **Reply #40 on:** April 11, 2014, 08:42:19 AM »

I'm bringing it down to my shop today and gonna see if I can borrow my buddy's temp gun like you said but yesterday when it read 200 degrees I put my hand on the block and the exhaust and both felt that hot

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« **Reply #41 on:** April 11, 2014, 09:43:51 AM »

I'm hoping it's something simple like a bad sending unit or clogged hose. Really don't want to tear a motor down in the beginning of the season. Plus I told my fiancé this thing was river ready 😱

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« **Reply #42 on:** April 11, 2014, 11:39:21 AM »

Check your pump...the vanes on the impeller could be worn to nothing. When idling the worn vanes don't create enough flow..when spinning fast the vanes create more flow thus cooling it down..when you run back down at idle the motor will warm back up due to lack of internal flow... definitely check all the hoses and the water jacket plugs in the block.

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« **Reply #43 on:** April 11, 2014, 11:39:40 AM »

Water pump that is..

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« **Reply #44 on:** April 11, 2014, 12:20:51 PM »

Checked all the water lines and could blow through all of them. I got another sending unit that will be in later today. There's a difference between the two plugs. The one up on the intake has a smaller diameter probe on it then the one on the head

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« **Reply #45 on:** April 11, 2014, 02:16:38 PM »

Havasukona shoot me a text 9515440346. I have a video of my boat running on the trailer I can send you so you can get an idea of how much water should be running out.

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« **Reply #46 on:** April 11, 2014, 07:50:42 PM »

Well Havasu hope u find ur issue. Great idea about double checking actual temp.

« **Reply #47 on:** April 11, 2014, 10:19:32 PM »

Did anyone try to run water pressure through each hose by themselves?
One of the hoses may have delamed aka flapper
Most likely in the main inlet hose..
Run the water pressure in the same direction it would normally on the engine...
Could be where the black stuff came from if I read that right. The flapper could be partially chocking off the hose.

GARY.

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« **Reply #48 on:** April 12, 2014, 08:17:44 AM »

Well guys I checked over everything yesterday. Blow through all my hoses replaced a couple that looked like that might be collapsing and ran it on the hose. Had the water all the way up and the motor never got past 150 😧. I've been doing some reading on the pumps and forums and if my pump is worn then it's not gonna pick up enough pressure to cool the motor correct ? I'm gonna go back out today to test it on the water to see for sure. Hoping I fixed the problem and it was just a bad hose

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« **Reply #49 on:** April 12, 2014, 08:39:11 AM »

I was just thinking about this. Are you sure you don't have a restriction in the pump feeding the motor? I don't believe a worn pump would cause this, but something plugging the feed from the pump could definitely give you grief. Try pulling the feed line off at the pump and stick something like a /piece of welding rod or wire back into the pump. The passage that feeds the motor is like 3/8" to 1/2", there should be absolutely no blockage there. It should be wide open. If someone has either done some work in the pump or maybe killed that pump at one time that hole could be obstructed which would definitely cause an over heat issue .

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