Why the spacer? ...

(Prefix: old style Dominator bowls have a smaller output than Berkeley bowls and the Rooster Booster is for a Berkeley bowl.)
The spacer is there because I can never seem to create enough headaches for myself...    I got the bright idea    that instead of doing it right    and removing the bowl from the pump to have the bowl machined to accept the Rooster Booster made for the Berkeley bowl I could just add the spacer and it would all bolt up at that point.    Didn't work of course  because I ended up machining the spacer to work anyway.   

... The boat your COPYING  doesn't have a space or does it?

If you're using the word copying very loosely you'd be right, but if you're referring to copying like copy and paiste you'd be waaaaay off as the blue and white Mach 1 has 4,000+++ HP, a almost completely custom made pump (maybe not in that picture), and undisclosed changes to the bottom of the hull... BUT the pump's bowl on the blue and white boat is considerably longer than the bowl I have so the spacer with my bowl is actually closer to that blue and white boat's bowl without the spacer.


My head hurts. 

Hey rod enlighten me on this Rooster Booster, never heard of one.        mark

They haven't been made in a long time, it extends the nozzle out a little further, no droop to it, and has a 3 1/2 (I think) degree up angle on it's output. Circled in red.

There is no clear advantage to running a Rooster Booster, a droop, a straight snoot, or any other nozzle extension device or water diversion device on all hulls, it's only what works best for each individual hull. The only way to determine that is through testing of each piece on the hull until the best performance is achieved (which I didn't do when I ditched the droop snoot for the Rooster Booster).

The bungie cord in the pic is a new high tech top secret piece for my pump, it's actual purpose is to keep the pump attached to my boat.  J/K   

Are you talking to yourself again?

I think Total Performance charges $500 for assembly of a short block. And the top end you can do all yourself

    Bring
    Out
    All
    Tools!   

I just paid $175 for a shop to assemble a short block.

Well this isn't in Arizona, and with this shop you get what you pay for 

Its really to bad your a fuking idiot

Total performance came in 4th place in Engine Masters Build off, that's out of all the top racing manufactures across the country, so if you don't think an extra $275 is worth the quality of work they do, then obviously YOU are the fucking Idiot

Are you talking to yourself again?

As much as possible.  

Break
Out
Another
Thousand

I already knew the meaning but sometimes I think I know better.    and then reality sets in - eventually.

I think Total Performance charges $500 for assembly of a short block. And the top end you can do all yourself

If I do the top end myself I still won't know how to/have the tools to check pushrod length/geometry, piston to valve clearence.



Marc put together a couple of stock engines in front of me (when I was on the injured list) and I have also put together a couple of stock engines by myself but with a stock engine things aren't nearly as critical. Huge domed pistons, lots of lift/duration on the cam, retro-fit roller set up are all totaly new to me. I think the engine builder I know will do it for $500, I think. He hasn't returned my call yet. Plus I still want to talk with Terry some more, maybe he thinks we can easily do it in one weekend?

What a smart ass, I DO having a running boat, and I built the engine, with MY tools. Not just that I did all the machine work on my boat, and in my car. So until you know what the **** you are talking about, STFU. Do you know what the average 45* angle on an intake valve seat is? Do you know how much clearance to give valve stems to guides so they don't freeze? Don't fuckin think so

No I don't know how. Oh sh!t, you're not talking to me are you?   

When I was in high school, several decades ago  , I did a 3 angle valve job on a pair of SBC heads, does that count? I think the 45 degree angle is at about 45 degree's.   

I'll run your boat. If you say that it spins an A-Impellar 5500 RPM, then you for sure should beat me. What if we run at Parker? I'll be running a motor that I built. You want to get in a fight? Wtf? You're cool one second and then get on my ass over something so stupid, over good advice that I'm giving Rod with shops in his area, that I've done before and he learned the hardway

I figured out today that I can expect to pay around $400 for each trip to Terry's house so that he can help me build my engine.    Now I'm having second thoughts and may just pay someone local to build it for me. I'd do it myself but there's parts of the assembly that I don't know how to do and don't have the tools to do (rod side clearences, file fit rings, degree'ing in a cam, checking piston to valve clearences, checking for proper pushrod length and geometry, etc...).   

its not about the money, its about learning something and hanging out with friends.