my harmonic balancer has a slight wobble to it could I have not pressed it on tight enough?

The press comes from clearance or interference between the crank snout and the Inside Diameter (ID) of the harmonic damper.  Typically, the amount of interference, or how much smaller the ID of the damper is relative to the Outside Diameter (OD) of the crank shout determines how much press you have.  Generally, the difference between OD and ID is around .001 per inch of diameter, depending on the class of fit.

When you installed it, you should have felt that it registered positively on the crank snout and then had a nice tight press while installing with an installation tool.  You should have also felt the hub of the damper seat firmly against the crank sprocket, capturing it against the shoulder of the crankshaft.

As far as not pressing it on tight enough and without seeing it, the wobble has me a bit concerned.  You don’t really have any control over the actual press fit of the damper unless you hone the ID or grind the OD of the crank.  It is possible that with a used crank and used damper that either or both could have some wear and therefore have lost some interference.  The ID of the damper could be on the large side of the tolerance and the OD of the crank could be on the small side to the point where there is not sufficient press between the mating diameters.  It is possible that there is galling on the mating surfaces, preventing them from assembling straight or not having an interference fit.  It is also possible that if the damper wasn’t seated all the way against the shoulder of the crank, the centripetal forces could cause unwanted movement of the damper, even damaging the hub or the snout resulting in a wobble.

It is hard to judge by the pictures, but it looks like the pulley alignment is good.  If it is visibly off, that could indicate the damper is not installed all the way.  Good news is that it looks easy to pull apart and see what’s going on.  How did it feel going together?

P.S.  How is the new job going?

  Good news is that it looks easy to pull apart and see what’s going on.  How did it feel going together?

P.S.  How is the new job going?
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it went together okay you know like a pain in the ass just with the torque amount you put to it to get it on but the bolt pattern seems to be traveling perfect it just seems like the outer diameter travel of the outer ring has a slight wobble so maybe when they press that on it wasn't perfect or maybe it slipped which has me worried if my timing will be off because of that so I'm probably going to order a new one and call it a day

and the new job is going excellent thwy  keep me busy as hell but they keep taking my days off away and asked me to work but I guess it's a good thing when you got f***** up harmonic balancer the replace

Christ...hope its a piston bearing.

cut the oil filter and half today and it looked like I had little metal pieces in the filter and then when you went to pick them up they like or dust particles you like the turn to dust like ground fine metal I don't know if they're from the break in process because  stillhas break in the oil or the bearing went I'm going to probably drain the oil fill it back up and sit in the water and see if it was just the play that I found in the drive line to the pump that was making a knock or the motor itself

Glad the new job is going well.  Yeah, the OT sucks when you want the time off, but that's not as bad as when you need it and don't get it.

This is a hydraulic cam engine?  With the valve on its seat, can you push on the pushrod side of the rocker and depress the plunger in the lifter or does it feel like huge lash?  Rotate the engine as if you were lashing valves and check all of the lifters this way.  If you have debris flowing through the engine, it could end up in the lifters, causing the plunger to freeze or even blocking oil flow to the rockers.  It can also get into the oil pump’s pressure relief bypass, causing it to stick which might be the cause of your oil pressure being tacked at 80PSI.

For all of these above reasons, I no longer run an oil filter system with a safety bypass.  Knowing how much debris you are finding in your oil filter, bypassing any oil will send debris to the mains/rods and the lifters of cylinders 1-4 followed by the lifters in cylinders 5-8.  I once lost an engine because of debris from a failed distributor gear bypassed the filter element altogether and went directly to the mains.  Looking at the pics in Reply 58, I see that you are running a stock style filter in the block.  I am not sure what it takes to remove the oil filter safety bypass in a Ford, but IMHO, that is high on my priority list.  Knowing what I know now, I just can't bring myself to not do that.

Keep in mind that pressure is the result of resistance to flow.  If you are seeing more pressure than usual, there must be increased resistance (blockage) to flow.  Attached is a schematic of the BBF oil galleries.  Looking at Reply 59, I see that you are tapping oil pressure for your gauge at the stock location in the rear of the block; at least you have a sending unit installed there.  If you are seeing pressure at that location, you should be getting flow to mains and lifters.  If you are tapping in at the oil filter, it is possible that you do have a blockage.

It is important to find the source of the debris.  Something is going on that is causing it and it will not just go away until the engine does.  If you will trouble shoot further, trying to get oil to the rockers, I suggest using a priming tool rather than running the engine.

Good luck,

Joe

I think itd time to let someone who does this for a living take a look and fix I need to take my own advise an seek higher knowledge and help time to B.O.A.T

Sorry bud that this is turning into a headache....and I've been super busy. Hit me up next week...maybe you can bring it over and we'll get to the bottom of whats going on here.

thanks fellas Brad im just gonna unplug it and take it to HBR engines ill call you to test when shr gets home id rather bother you for that man

okay so I got word on my motor today and thank God it's not too bad the weird thing is that 1 the lifters broke which dude said he's never seen a lifter break like that before but that's just my luck so I took the cam out. so I'm going to get a custom ground cam I'm going to change the springs to something stronger in the heads while I'm there and maybe stainless steel valves roller rockers and start again

I know you boys like carnage so I'm gonna show you what happened the plate that holds the cam in shattered cam shifted caught the lifter lifter shattered. and then hear more pics that show the uneven wearing of my bearings

 

That is some serious loads on that cam thrust plate.  Did you have a high pressure and high volume oil pump?  How does the distributor gear look?

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Something caused that plate to fail.  Just saying that the majority of thrust loads on a cam come from the load of the oil pump through the distributor gear.  How did the front cam bearing look?

I don't like high-volume pumps as oil pumps run in bypass anyway. Too much stress on the oil pump drive and everything associated and it works the oil unnecessarily.

Just a thought.  Sorry for the bad luck.

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Paints on them is ugly yellow so what do u think green block yellow heads silver boat with purple pinstripe

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