Right on you will have one bad olds

Looks bad ass, bro!  I'm building a warm 455 right now too.  Nothing like yours, though!

Couple questions came to mind when looking at your pics, and keep in mind I'm a 1st time Olds builder so the info I have comes from asking, not doing...

1) On your main cap, from what I've read it's recommended to grind /shape / blend the area where the pump mounts to match the opening of the pump.  This is supposed to help tremendously with oil flow.  Curious why you chose to skip this step?

2) Again from reading, many people mill 1/2" wide by .020" deep slots into the rod caps to aid in oil flow between the rods.  I know you have aftermarket rods (how long are those mofos by the way??!?!  NICE!)... did the rod manufacturer or vendor say anything about this mod?

3) Can't tell from your pics, did you blend the oil holes in the upper main saddle for increased flow?

Attached is what I did to my main cap and oil drain back holes.

To simply answer all your questions I chose to not modify the main cap because I simply do not believe in that method. Keep in mind one builder to another that's just my preference. I did not have any oiling issues on the last motor just bearing clearances. As for notching the rods that was only described to me for the use of stock rods. Since I'm running an aftermarket eagle 7100 rod it's not necessary at all especially if you keep your side to side rod clearance between .017-.025 I myself am at .023. Also keep in mind blending will not hurt your odds at all but the olds never had an issue with oil flow but the main issue was drain back. Hope that answered your questions. 




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Mondello crank and rods?  I'm curious about the measurements on the stroke and rod?  Would you mind sharing?  I'm curious if the decision to go with aftermarket rods was dictated more by length or strength.   I sure hope it delivers the kind of kick in the pants you are hoping for. 

Let's get this strait nothing is Mondello as far as I'm concerned. Crank is Eagle and so are the rods. Tried to go to a diff vender and let's say it didn't work out as well. Stroke for the crank 4.500 rods 7100. On the market if you know of anything better out there I would sure love to know about it.


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I'm sorry, I thought I had read that Mondello had put together the package for you.  The rods looked like what is on their site and when I blew up you piston pic they are clearly stamped as Mondello Performance.  With all the shortcomings that the original cranks have for performance I thought maybe Mondello was having their own design cast.  Again, I hope this works out well for you, and that you can saw off a few Chevy's.

No problem I just want to give you guys the right facts on what I'm building. You ask I tell. Mondello can be misleading on their parts but in the end they are getting them from the same vender as the rest.


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Man I tell you this build is being a pain in the a## not because of what engine it is but because the place I got my rotating assembly can't seem to get the parts right. Let's start with they gave me the wrong size bearing so I sent the wrong ones back and got a new set and those are for a stock rod!!! See where this is going? Also as mentioned before received the wrong Pistons that was .250 too long from deck hight giving me absolutely no compression. So they had to have another set made and they came in today to find out they weren't able to make them to the same weight as the old ones and they sent me Pistons for a 60 over bore not 30. What a mess. So in the end the shop I got the rotating assembly is now going to eat the cost of me having to take everything down and have it rebalanced and have my block bored to 60 over. I really hope this is the end to these problems!!! The good side is I gained a few more horses having to deal with this. It should be around a 495 now.


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Dam not even going to ask who just keep your head up!!!! You'll get there!! I want some pic!!!

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No doubt and once everything is done being balanced I will get back on track with my build with plenty of pictures.


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It sucks going through what you are going through.  I think of it this way.  Know what is wrong and making sure you are having the right parts will pay off at the end.  I think this is a good topic.  When you are building a good engine it takes a lot of research and the proper tools to measure.  Keep up the good work bro we will be testing soon. Just a little set back but have to make sure it's right.


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Nice build    what cam  grind are you going to run   I'm currently doing a refresh on my 455

Going roller hydraulic. Here is the cam specs.
 


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At least it sounds like a shop that is interested in making a customer for life.  Good for them not trying to make you pay for the problems that one of their vendors has caused you.  I hope things continue to fall your way, and you are able to hit those numbers you're hoping for.

Thanks and yea I think they are just as frustrated as I am.


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Alright looks like things are looking up. Got the block and rotating assembly back from the machine shop and everything looks good. Right now I'm gaping the rings. Putting the second ring at .033 and the top ring at .025.


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Something tells me that deck surface isn't straight...

Iv seen sealing issues with aluminum heads to iron block and iron to iron...

I'd thread chase the head bolt threads too...


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It looks that way but it was checked and its strait.


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Rings are put on and Pistons/rods stabbed and torqued. 


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