hot rod looks good but man o man my screen shows some overspray on the springs and intake area and i would like to know why red, just asking because most are red or blue?   thanks o guru

looks orange to me 

Ya' gotta read this shit!

So marcsrollin and I took my jet boat's carb down to my carb guy to get it assessed and maybe drop it off for a rebuild. I also took a lifter down to the guy figuring he could tell me in a couple of easy for him seconds if it were a solid or hydraulic lifter. 

First was the assessment, it's a Holley 4150 800 cfm mech secondary carb, excellant for my 454 with 10ish to 1 compression ratio. Carb was (qoute) "looks like it just came back from the war". I asked him if it was big enough for my engine, 454, 10ish to 1 comp, oval port, big valve, unknown cam, which he said it was perfect for it. Excellant! 

So then I showed him my lifter and he said it was cupped so bad (worn) he could drink water out of it. My engine needs a new cam and lifters. 

So we get back to my house, and we're looking at the engine, talking about the worn out cam and lifters and  f**k   it, damnit, pull the heads off and see what you got.

We ladies and gentlemen, my 454 is actually a 468  , AND it has dome pistons in it which means its got more than 10ish to 1 compression  , AND those domed pistons are forged Sealed Power pistons made at the same plant as forged TRW pistons    , AND the flockin thing has a forged crank in it      , holy crap! The cylinders do have a super slight ridge on the tops but nothing excessive at all, I've seen much worse cylinders and run excellant. The cylinders show honing marks at the bottom of the cylinder but not at the top, judging by the ridges and the grease I'd say I have a car motor broken in well enough for a boat engine  . So once I put a Schneider DB2 (I think) cam in it I'm going have a bad assed long block of a 468. I am stoked! The rods are cast and show no numbers or markings. ? .

So now I'm thinking of ditching the single four barrell tunnel ram and getting serious with the mother effer        maybe a shot of NOS would do the trick...

Thanks! I bought it for $700 

With those pistons and a 106cc head chamber it should be 10.25:1 compression but he's running 427 vette heads with a 101cc head chamber so were still not clear on the compression ratio. Any body have any ideas on what the true ratio would be? We need to know so we put the right fuel in it!

I just figure out that the block was made on Oct., 6, 1971 and that particular block was made from 1972 to whenever. I also figured out that it's a "crate engine" that came with 2 bolt mains, mine has 4 bolt mains.

I have ordered a Holley Blue electric fuel pump and regulator, a gear drive to replace the timing chain, and a new carb feed line and fuel pressure gauge. I really need to order the cam.

Yeah, the Schneider JB1 camshaft was replaced by the JB3 and the JB2 was replaced by the JB4. JB does stand for Jet Boat. I'm going with the JB4. I wish I could find out my exact compression ratio, shouldn't be this difficult with a BBC. Guesstimated HP is 475 to 525. I've been told by 2 different shops that my engine could have a minimum of 100 more HP with rect. port heads. I can't afford that. 

But since my original intention is to get the boat to go 60 mph, I think 475 to 525 should be able to do that.    

What do you think?

i dont know crap about a chevy, but it looks like its coming along nicely

I got the heads cleaned, but decided to wait on the 2 oil pans mentioned above so I could figure out exactly what level the dip stick is supposed to sit at in the oil pan.

I got the camshaft and lifters today.    I took the cam spec sheet to my carb guy, for jetting purposes, and he forewarned me to have one of the valve springs checked first before installing the cam.    So I got a little bit of a delay on that part of putting the engine back together. I'm going to have to rent a valve spring compressor too. I was thinking about building one out of one of my many welder's vice grips. I got the head studs today too.     You see, I figure since it has forged pistons and crank, 4 bolt mains, why not put studs on the heads and put it on the bottle too.           Also, completely by accident while surfing the web I found out there is a very special way that head studs need to be installed.     So that was cool because I found the instructions also on the web.     I told my carb guy that I was running out of funds and that I was going to wait on buying a Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold. I also told him I was going to temporarily use the intake that came on the engine when I bought it, an Edelbrock C427X. After picking up his bottom jaw off of the floor     he told me that manifold is hard to find and that it is actually better than the Air Gap.          

Pictures never hurt.

awesome, i think i just soiled myself, the orange looks great, that is a great bowtie powerplant

Those valve spring compessor's are available for purchase at Kragen also.

In high school shop class I used a valve spring compressor that was very close to a welder's vise grip "C" clamp. I think I'm going to build one. I like the way it compressed the spring against the valve instead of against itself. Just seems like a better way to remove and reinstall the springs.

I'm rapidly running out of funds.