Buyer's remorse, when a buyer buys something and takes it home and say's: Damn! I shouldn't have bought that.   

Stainless braided lines are a pain in the asss to make.     Today I mounted the oil cooler, mounted the oil filter adaptor, mounted the remote oil filter mount (under the rear deck), plumbed it all with stainless braided line, and then hid     all of that work with a piar of logs and then I plumbed most of the logs with stainless braided line. I've run out of time before I can finish and need to take care of some cash making work.      

All of the stainless braided line has been run and hooked up for the water and oil lines. Next is the water and fuel seperator, electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge, fuel filter, nitrous plate, and carb.

loooooooking good

When are you going to finish that boat? Sounds like your close to it.

I talked briefly with Ralph one day about my current lack of cash is slowing me down on finishing boat, I wanted all stainless braided line, etc... 

He said, it just depends on how bad you want it on the water.   

I decided right then that it was getting done, on time, with safe effective CHEAP practices. I figured I could do ONE thing a day, cram it into my schedule, I could still easily be done by 7/6/07. In the last two days I've installed my carb, it's fuel lines, fuel/water seperator from Wal Mart, fuel filter, Holley fuel reg., Holley electric fuel pump, made a altenator bracket and put the altenator on, and installed the scoop and spark arrestor in the correct direction.

Next is wiring.     This one's wires are original and in excellant shape. Unfortunately it's had about 400,000 mechanics work on it who obviously don't know how to fix wiring they just knew how to run a new wire. Often, in this particular boats case. Spagetti. Basuda. Crap. But I love wiring.     Can't wait to get my hands on it.

My gas pedal/carb linkage isn't returing all of the way to idle. Is it normal to need a throttle return spring at the carb on a jet boat?

I got a matching PCV for both sides of the engine and ran a T into the carb. Rubber hose. Installed the carb, throttle cable, wired the engine, allmost finished the boat wiring, drilled, tapped, and bolted on the driveshaft cover (bottom 1/2 of it), installed the MSD 6AL, broke the back light  , made and installed 1/O battery cable for the starter (because I can), stripped the + post on the starter    (I need a starter BTW), and I am now need of parts... and some more time... and a few more parts... I want this project on the water on the 28th.   

I got a matching PCV for both sides of the engine and ran a T into the carb. Rubber hose.

Hotrod, you are going to want to eliminate the second PCV valve. For the PCV to work properly and actually ventilate the crankcase, you want a breather on one cover and PCV on the other.

If the stripped threads are on a GM style starter, just replace the solenoid, but use a quality one(like AC Delco). You might also check with the local GM dealer to see if they still supply the low tension return spring for the solenoid plunger. It requires a little less current to actuate the solenoid, helping to prevent "hot start" problems.

I haven't worked on it today, yet, but I did do some horse trading though for some parts. I traded a 1/2 of a frozen Jacuzzi WJ, a Berkeley housing with an aluminum impellor (bad bearing, repaired housing), and $60 for a set of Taylor spark plug wires, a new Place Divertor cable, and an oil pressure gauge sending unit.   

Depends what he is trying to accomplish. Without a breather, no fresh air will circulate into the crankcase, meaning no fumes will be drawn through into the intake. Hence, no ventilation and the benefit of a standard PCV system won't be there. I can only assume that he is suggesting it as a "poor man's" way of building crankcase vacuum which is usually done to assist in ring seal. Not sure how much benefit there will be as the manifold vacuum in your boat engine at pretty much any speed above idle will be quite low. In a car, things would be different. Not saying his idea wont work or will cause problems, just kind of question its effectiveness.
...

A breif uhmmm... my carb guy has been involved in every type of racing at some point or another for at leats 40 years. Boats, NHRA dragsters, blown, turbo'd, naturally aspirated, anything that exists in racing he's done and done well in. Not too long ago he was heavily involved in NHRA top fuel dragsters (several) due to his reputation and skills. We used to have a asphalt oval here in town and after he retired he got into that racing. He came up with the idea of dual PCV's on those cars. They eventually outlawed dual PCV's because of an unfair advantage on the track. He suggested the dual PCV's to me and with his suggestion and the fact that those paved oval car's use a lot of mid-range and top-end power I chose to use his suggestion. I can clearly see your point about the dual PCV with no air coming in point I'm just not sure what to make of it considering who suggested I install dual PCV's. Time will tell.

... I was doing some more reading in this thread. Saw your issue with the head studs. Did you get that figured out? Did the nuts torque properly without bottoming on the threads of the studs?

I ditched the Pro Comp heads studs (claimed to be the same as TRW or any of the other...) and got... damn can't remember the name of... famous manufacturer... regular head bolts instead of the studs. My whole point of the studs (in addition to the already in the engine forged pistons and crank) was to get NOS on the boat purely for sandbar appeal. I know that's kind of a BS reason for NOS but with the forged stuff in there I could have easily used it - wisely - seldomly. Unfortunately I got into a bind with my ever changinf finances and sold the NOS. Head bolts will be fine.     The studs/nuts never properly torqued the heads.          

Did he ever explain what it was they were doing or why he used them?  Just curious to know what area he was looking to for performance gain.

No. I took it as "golden".