SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => The No Wake Zone => Topic started by: Brendellajet on June 07, 2008, 05:09:08 PM
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Brad saw you running the boat today. Boat sounded good when it wasn't popping...Hope all is okay.
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Brad saw you running the boat today. Boat sounded good when it wasn't popping...Hope all is okay.
yeah, ralph and i were out there tryin to put a tune on it but no matter what we did, it just got worse.
now im debating even taking it to parker next weekend. :-\
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yeah, ralph and i were out there tryin to put a tune on it but no matter what we did, it just got worse.
now im debating even taking it to parker next weekend. :-\
Do you have any idea of what thats alll about? Carb, timing , Combination?
Sorry to hear that man, that really sucks.......
2sav
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we jetted it up....jetted it down....played with the timing....even put the carb off ralphs liberty on there....it would just spit and sputter past 3.5k...then would clean out.
everything points to floating valves OTHER then the fact it cleans out if you keep your foot in it longer then 3-5 seconds....if it was valves, it would never clean out.
sounds like its getting flooded, right...but its running way lean.....make it fatter and it does the same damn thing.
any way we went with it, it just ran like crap. period.
got nothing acomplished today out there other then chasing our tails. im beyond frustrated, embarrased and fed up. i just want this shit to work.
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Maybe a little to early to say, but maybe that stroker motor is in order here ??? Atleast that way you know what you have going on in there........ Either way you will get it figured out ;)
I dont know whats worse, no motor or a new motor that runs like shit :banghead:
2sav
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How are the power valves? I assume its a double pumper...? Make any changes right before this started happening?
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How are the power valves? I assume its a double pumper...? Make any changes right before this started happening?
its a brand new quick fuel technologies 850ct (mech dp)...power valves seem to be fine...i inspected them for tears.
when the secondaries kick in, it takes the initial squirt then blubbers out.
it runs great on the trailer.....it only does it under load.
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some pics
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_001.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_017.jpg)
bob wrenchin on my shiat :D
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_054.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_063.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_064.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_003.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_005.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_008.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_009.jpg)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/elsinore_6-7-08_042.jpg)
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If its new from Quick Fuel maybe they can help out. Could be plugs crossfiring...Eliminate all the stupid stuff...You could post something up in PB "on the dyno"...Needs another good thread in there.
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Sorry to hear that Brad, I didn't realize the extent of your problems. Hell I don't think you were even drinking when I stopped by. You'll get figured out I'm sure.
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im not a master on boats, but i know a little something on carbs. your float could be set to high, or if the floats right but the float bounces you might want to look in to a new needle and seat, that are for offroad applications. im not sure the parts that will fit in your carb, but the one for a holley are about $28 each. i have them in my 650 dp
hope this helps. pics look good looked a little busy since the last time i was there
The Beav
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im not a master on boats, but i know a little something on carbs. your float could be set to high, or if the floats right but the float bounces you might want to look in to a new needle and seat, that are for offroad applications. im not sure the parts that will fit in your carb, but the one for a holley are about $28 each. i have them in my 650 dp
hope this helps. pics look good looked a little busy since the last time i was there
The Beav
i thought about the float thing, because, when the boat hits a real big roller and comes down it flubbers pretty bad. Now that being said, we put my carb off my boat on his and it did the same thing. my carb back on my boat no problem what so ever.
im starting to think or have been thinking its harmonics with the valve springs, but it just acts like its fat,popping out the exhaust. im stumped :-\
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does the motor have a coil? sometimes if the coil is going bad it will not deliver the full bang of the coil, and it will studder really bad under load, but once the motor doesnt have alot of load it clears up.
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does the motor have a coil? sometimes if the coil is going bad it will not deliver the full bang of the coil, and it will studder really bad under load, but once the motor doesnt have alot of load it clears up.
good point, but, new coil and all new msd ignition system, did the same thing before with my msd system in it
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my MSD system has a coil and the box. you could have an intake leak somewhere if the motor sounds fat but is running lean. But i believe it to be a coil or even wires, all of that stuff will sputter under load and not when there is no load. Just my .02
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I know what the problem is! It's a FORD! ;D
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Ouch Nick. Thats gonna leave a mark. Thanks Brad for letting me tag along today. Even though the boat runs like crap for a few seconds I had a great time. Thanks Ralph for letting me get beind the wheel of the family boat. That thing runs like a bat out o hell. Dont get too frusterated Brad...we'll get it figured out.
Bob
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Your problems sound just like problems I used to have and both reasons were covered. First time it was a brand new coil. Worked about 1-2 hrs then started acting like that. The valves might also not be closing correctly or at incorrect times? Has it always acted like that from 1st fire? Maybe the cam is off? When my valves floated and hit pistons bending them a little I got the exact same kind of run, right down to the poping in the exhaust. Did you check compression and vacuum? Obviously I am no expert, I just wanted to share ideas and past experiences I had and my solutions. Good Luck, I am sure you will pin it down.
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Hey guys I am not an expert either, but thot I would throw in my .02, Ralph you were sayin about the rollers and coming down and sputtering, bein on the water and gasin it and it would be ok for a little, and on the trailer is ok, well to me sounds like maybe an electrical short somewhere. When the boat is stable to a degree everything seems to be fine, when being bounced around not so, at least from what you guys have been describing Just my .02 guys Good luck Brad
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Ouch Nick. Thats gonna leave a mark.
Im just teasing him!
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I'm just going to throw this out there because only Ford seem to have this problem, thats not a Ford dig by the way.
I think what you may be experiencing is valve guide bind, the only inconsistant part is the rollers and that could be due to subtle throttle fluctuations, when it cleans out, does it stay clean? and how consistant is that 3500 rpm ceiling.
The other possibility is a bad ignition switch or electrical to the ignition system, like a fuse holder or terminal causing a voltage drop to the box, at certain RPM could vibrate at that perfect frequeny. To rule this out just use a jumper for a quik run and see if the problem goes away.
Sorry to hear about the problems, this kind can be very frustrating.
BTW if I was going to do a Ford dig, it would be "hey the distributor is in the wrong end of the engine!"
Good luck!
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The other possibility is a bad ignition switch or electrical to the ignition system, like a fuse holder or terminal causing a voltage drop to the box, at certain RPM could vibrate at that perfect frequeny. To rule this out just use a jumper for a quik run and see if the problem goes away.
I agree, sounds like an electrical problem. When you make the jumper wires, do power and ground to the batt. If it works fine than the fun starts :sly:. Leave the power to the batt and put the ground back where you had it and try again (rules out a ground problem). You also have somekind of safty killswitch in there right? Check everything ! This will take some time to find, you need to bypass each component one at a time and try again until it works.
btw , if I remember right you had some problems with gauges not working correctly, right ?? might be related. ;)
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all good points, and i beleive that chasing electrical would be easier than removing the cyl heads. so we/he should try that first.
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Brad if the heads are bad, i have two sets that came off running motors. You can borrow till you get yours fix't.I DONT WANT TO SELL THEM.(rivertard). :)
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Brad are these the heads that had the sled rockers on them ? do these heads have the same valves ? Where heads changed when valve train was changed to rollers? Have you down a leak down test ? I think you have valve problems. I will get shit dumped on me for this but I don't give A shit The last time I asked a question like this Beerjet jumped on my ass And I still never got an ffffk answer . I have been doing heads for over 55 years I don't use 69cent
guide liner I don't use stones Leave that to masters Rolling Stones Don't have to lap my seats
Don't use IOUX Grinder GOOd for tee pee poles and tom hacks, Have $500.00 for any one to
grind 16 valves and re index on old three ball chuck and cone head. That is why Snap on through old three ball & cone head all in junk should have been done 40 years ago (now they use accuchuck stan saved them) Dam Vodka makes me mean! Hope you get it going Brad. And check thoes heads out to I think it will run better any.
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Well , i got a set of Chevy heads that might cure it ;D
C'mon man, you know i had too >:D
2sav
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Im just teasing him!
I know you are. :o
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Well , i got a set of Chevy heads that might cure it ;D
C'mon man, you know i had too >:D
2sav
Yeah..Ya might as well let him,huh....obviously yer not gonna use 'em! >:D hehehe
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Yeah..Ya might as well let him,huh....obviously yer not gonna use 'em! >:D hehehe
Now that really hurts man!!! :'(
2sav ;D
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Now that really hurts man!!! :'(
2sav ;D
Jus' messin' with ya 2sav....ya know I had to do it.....bein' the BIG FORD guy I am..... :banghead: :o 8)
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Jus' messin' with ya 2sav....ya know I had to do it.....bein' the BIG FORD guy I am..... :banghead: :o 8)
Eeeewwwwwww you said the FORDletterword!!!
2sav ;D
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I know You remember when I picked you up in my pile o parts at elsinore . It spuddered like crazy and ran like crap . Dropped you off at the dock and never made it back to my ramp . Turns out I had a bad connection at my breaker switch . Sounds like ralphs pretty much got this narrowed down .
-beerjet-
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thanks everyone for their input.
next step will be bypassing all electrical as much as possible just to rule it out. pretty much just hook up the msd box, dist, coil, battery, starter and altinator.....the bare essentials. i think its now just doing the process of elimination.
propless, there was no issue with my gauges...i thought my temp gauge wasnt working, but it was just running too cold and wasnt registering.
got to thinking about it "running fine on the trailer and only acting up under load"....i never really run it over 3500 on the trailer....just rap on it a little, but never climb rpms. i will (carefully) try this as well. if i can get it to act up on the trailer, it will be easier to trouble shoot rather then having to make lake trips and change crap on the shore.
im determined to find this gremlin.
i will also post this over on PB's motor tech section as well as suggested by brendellajet. theres a lot of experience i need to explore over there. I dont really think this is a ford specific issue. its basic mechanics. it could very well happen to a chevy.
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Check to make sure the cam is in right!!!!!
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hey brad newb here, i had the white jet pulling out as you were goin in. you and your buddy sounded good as you took off. best of luck figuring out your prob.
i changed my intake mani. gasket and multiple oil changes and got back on the lake at 7 pm and ended up towing some one to the ramp and driving him to his truck on the other side of the lake.
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I was out there today doing some tuning....
OK, when I hear that, I think that the plugs have a bad gap on them, causing them to foul on the acc pump. In addition to the plug gap, This can also be caused by a marginal coil or wires, a confused rev limiter (if it's a 6 al pull the pill), or incorrect rotor phasing in the cap. Don't discount something stupid like moisture in the cap or the cap not seated 100%. When you get on it at low RPM, the load the ignition sees is the greatest - so any easier path the current will take. Light load won't always show ignition issues.
OR
The floats are too low
OR
the secondaries have debris in them.
OR
The secondary acc pump is too big (too much fuel) or the secondary spring is too light ( I missed if it's a DP or a vac).
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You also could be having lifter issues if you have a hyd flat tappet, see if changing the weight of the oil changes where it happens at.
What is your gap set at (set to .045) ?
What plug wires are you using?
Have you separated the adjacent firing cylinders (example: mopar / Chev 5/7 ; Ford 3/4)
Have you verified the cap is dry and on 100%
All plug wires are seated?
The plugs are tight?
The wires can't and aren't arcing somewhere?
You have a reasonable acc pump cam(s) installed (white / pink) , and not some mondo squirter size (.028-.035)?
Jetting is near stock for the carb?
Fuel pressure is OK, floats set to sight glass?
My dual carbs want a .035-.037 squirter and pink cam. Not much pump shot cc wise, but all of it immediately.
Jets seem to get too much fuel for too long on the acc pump if the carbs are left stock - no convertor or gear to contend with in a jet, so they don't need as long of duration - if this happens to be when your secondary acc pump starts (and you have a dp) - you may just have too much fuel for too long of duration at that point.
I'd have to hear it to be sure though, these are just some things that come into my head.
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just to add something....
the 'sputtering/spitting' starts at a VERY specific RPM....about 3500. you can find it and ride right under it and as soon as you go a little more, it starts up, if you back off a little, it stops. its VERY specific and defined to that rpm. it is not random coming in at various rpms.
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speedy, we have eliminated the carb issues. we took the carb off ralphs motor (very similar motor) and it rendered the same issues. I am planning on checking all the plug wires when i have the headers off later this week when i replace the gaskets. I know there is one that isnt right and never has been. Along with the other trouble shooting, i will be testing a different MSD box as well to void that one out as being a cause as well.
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Hey Brad, when doing your troubleshooting, disconnect the tach lead also, just as an experiment, your tachometer could be going to ground also (only heard of this one time, but it was one of those rev-limit tachs) I believe with MSD it is the grey wire.
Now you have me curious, BTW X2 the oil viscosity theory.
Also, how much water do you have going through the headers? It is possible to have too large of orifices, or too much pressure going into the exhaust tubes, try shutting that off as an experiment as well.
Keep us posted!
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headers have no water going through them. it renders the same problem with or without baffles in.
there is plug on the side of the msd box for the tach that will be disconnected during troubleshooting.
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Hey Brad.....lemmee ask ya something....does it do it on both tanks or just one? ???
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Torque peek is where the greatest igntion load is - where is your cam's torque peek?
Try backing off your ignition a few degrees to see if it helps at 3500 RPM. Personally I'm leaning towards an ignition issue in this order -
Burned plug wire(s)
Significantly wrong gap setting
insuficient voltage
confused limiter
cap rotor phasing or clearance issues (too big of gap)
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Hey Brad.....lemmee ask ya something....does it do it on both tanks or just one? ???
currently it draws from both tanks without any valves to specify which tank to draw from.
During the last race I had a single bullet tank (the coffee maker) with a -10 line going to the fuel pump. same problem happened.
i watched the fuel pressure gauge as a passenger when ralph was driving and the fuel pressure was constant and never budged. I am running 6lbs, with ralphs carb on there (and his regulator) it was running 8lbs.
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Torque peek is where the greatest igntion load is - where is your cam's torque peek?
Try backing off your ignition a few degrees to see if it helps at 3500 RPM. Personally I'm leaning towards an ignition issue in this order -
Burned plug wire(s)
Significantly wrong gap setting
insuficient voltage
confused limiter
cap rotor phasing or clearance issues (too big of gap)
Hey Speedy...I agree with ya except for....if it had a bad plug wire or a spark plug issue,wouldnt it cause a problem at all times instead of just at about 3500 rpm's?
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Here is my cam card...
[attachimg=1]
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Forgive my stupidity once again, this is a 460 right? has this combo ever run right? the reason I ask one of the goofy things Ford does that can be an ass kicker is the pushrods go into the lifters at an angle, I have seen the lifter bores get jacked and they will have valves hanging open if things aren't "tits" (sorry ladies).
Not sure how to prove is the only problem, you probably already know this but the boat does not have to be out in the middle of the lake to troubleshoot a problem like this, just tie it real secure to the trailer, back it into the water and let her fly while hooked up to the truck with the E-brake on and don't let anybody get in front of the boat just in case.
Only recommend this on a concrete ramp, mud gets messy.
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Thats a good camshaft, what rockers are you using, and is the cam installed straight up?
This cam doesn't seem too outrageous, a lot of lift depending on the rockers, could also have valves overtightened, lifters pumped up take away lash. Doubt it though. :-\
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Here is my cam card...
(Attachment Link)
Hey guy's....sorry if i'm ramblin' here,cuz i have never really been into the performance end of stuff... Anyway,Brad...I noticed that the date on that is from 2 years ago? Has it been in the boat for awhile? Or am I looking at that wrong? Curiosity...if it has been in the boat for awhile,is it possible that you have "lost" a lobe on the camshaft?? Just curious..... Tracy
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yes, this is a 460.
I dont know what angle the cam is at, i did not install it. it has 1.7 (not 1.73 as per ford spec) roller rockers installed. i was told that 1.7's will work fine as well.
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Hey guy's....sorry if i'm ramblin' here,cuz i have never really been into the performance end of stuff... Anyway,Brad...I noticed that the date on that is from 2 years ago? Has it been in the boat for awhile? Or am I looking at that wrong? Curiosity...if it has been in the boat for awhile,is it possible that you have "lost" a lobe on the camshaft?? Just curious..... Tracy
to my knowledge, it was a new cam and lifters going in. i dont know if thats a date for when the PN was created or the cam was ground. ???
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1.7 rockers are an exellent choice, however the overall lift will be exagerated, which could exagerate the lifter problem, if there is one. How about the springs, are they Comps as well (more cam requires more spring). Grasping at straws now.
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im still going to stick to a bad coil.... just my .02
Change the coil and put it in the water..
the load that the motor is seeing above 3500 points to the coil
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BTW Comp makes marine cams too, the one in my 468 is an Extreme Marine P/N XM280H, pretty lumpy but never an issue, I have always had good luck with Comps stuff, however a lot of people have had bad experiences.
X2 on the coil, but didn't you say it did it with the old coil, thought we ruled that out. :-\
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Stupid I know, don't need to send back death threats ;D is it an internally resisted coil?
if it is does it have a resistor.
If it is an internally resisted coil and has a resister you'll only have about 6V to make spark with (not enough)
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there was too many changes between the its first time on the water at the ming race (march) and the parker race (april) to rule anything out.
at ming, it did run funky and didnt run great, but i dont remember noting this issue at all at ming. the issues at ming were minor and were believed to be timing only.
between the ming race and parker, the following was changed:
- distributor
- msd box
- coil
- plug wires
- carb (holley 750 to a quick fuel 850ct)
- change from a stock cast iron cobra jet intake to a single carb tunnel ram
since then, i have changed out the tunnel ram for a edlebrock victor intake.
so basically, i dont want to rule out the above because i cant really say the issue existed at ming, i have no idea if the issues at ming and parker were related. too many changes were made. I want to start from scratch on the trouble shooting....so nothing is ruled out at this point except the carb. we swapped carbs and the problem still existed.
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i have bought a new coil and it be bad right from the box. thats what i would try first
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its a msd coil, box (6al) and distributor
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i have bought a new coil and it be bad right from the box. thats what i would try first
beav, i will try that as well. thanks!
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i basiclly live right down the street and i have my boat on my truck, i could bring my stuff by and try it, i just need it back before thursday, because im going to lake S.A, but if you keep it i might just have to tell the girlfriend that i need to go to parker to get the parts back O0
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Sorry, for clarification it ran bad with two different carbs, and two different ignition systems including the coils right?
Also does it run real strong to 3500, or is it a little lazy about it?
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ok, to put a timeline on this....lets FORGET about the ming race...never happend.
the things that have been changed and have not changed the issue is the following:
- Intake (tunnel ram to victor)
- Carb (borrowed ralphs known working carb)
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Also does it run real strong to 3500, or is it a little lazy about it?
it runs strong and fine UP TO 3500. even out of the hole if you dont go over 3500
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BTW I have three bad MSD6AL boxes with less than 15 hours on them if you want them, lets just say MSD took care of me after some heated correspondance.
Had one fail after cam break in, had one let go on a customers boat on the Sacramento river, and the third one while at Lake Shasta on my own boat. (All 3 were bought at the same time).
There is a lot of "magic" in those boxes, failure would not surprise me.
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i basiclly live right down the street and i have my boat on my truck, i could bring my stuff by and try it, i just need it back before thursday, because im going to lake S.A, but if you keep it i might just have to tell the girlfriend that i need to go to parker to get the parts back O0
beav, thanks for the offer, but im not taking someones running boat apart especially if they are headed to the lake so soon. I dont want to transfer any headaches. I dont wish this on anyone! :mad: it might be contagious! lol
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BTW I have three bad MSD6AL boxes with less than 15 hours on them if you want them, lets just say MSD took care of me after some heated correspondance.
Had one fail after cam break in, had one let go on a customers boat on the Sacramento river, and the third one while at Lake Shasta on my own boat. (All 3 were bought at the same time).
There is a lot of "magic" in those boxes, failure would not surprise me.
ralph is bringing his spare msd box with him to parker to try. Its another item thats lined up in the process of elimination.
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Damn pretty soon you will have to have another truck just for spare parts!
Sure hope you figure this one out Brad, besides the suspense is killing me, sort of like a soap opera (I know, I know, I had foot surgery a couple of years ago and could not walk at all for two and a half weeks :'()
Good luck! I'm going to go check my eyelids for leaks! ^-^
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Ignition modual ?........This is hard fought knowlege that we'll all learn from. Ignition or electrcal my guess. Keep us posted !
The little girl on the boat seemed to have had a good time with the family!!!!LOL ;D
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Oops , I was under the impresion you swaped the msd boxes already . I bet thats your problem, or the coil,. Isnt that about the rpm that thay switch from milti spark to a long single spark ???
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Who's plug wires did you change from / to? Were they pre made or did you make them? I've had bad wires out of the box before, and the problems with a bad wire is it will ( mostly ) only fail under load.
msd boxes have a minimum RPM they run, which is around 3000 RPM. Above that there isn't time to have the extra spark.
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I have 8mm msd plug wires that we had to cut to length.
dumb question: if it was spark, why would it only effect the RPM range from 3500 to 4200 then clean out?
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The ignition load is greatest around torque peek.
The spark voltage and resulting current will take the easiest path.
Let's go with a bad wire that is burned through as a simplistic thoretical example (I don't think you want me to get into a physics course here):
These are theoretical numbers for an example, ignoring impedance, transmission line charatoristics, and a host of other things we don't need for this. Your numbers will vary.
At idle, with no load, your spark plug gap is the equivalent of 50 ohms.
You have a burn in your wire, and that gap is the equvalent to 500 ohms.
The spark will ignore the burn in the wire, and the voltage will jump the plug gap - this causes a spark inside of the cylinder and the fuel will ignite.
Now, as your RPM and load increases, that resistance from the plug gap goes up. At torque peek, that 50 ohms may be 1000 Ohms now.
The voltage will now take the 500 ohm jump to the header rather than the plug, so no spark inside the cylinder.
At the higher RPM beyond peek, the the load may drop to 400 ohms, so the plug once again fires.
The main thing to understand is there is a variance in what the plug load is based on RPM and load, it isn't constant, and it isn't straight up.
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If the resitance of the plug is too great, and there is no other path (like you gapped them at .300) it is possible there will not be a spark at all. A specific voltage will jump a specific gap. Beyond the gap it can jump, there will be no spark.
Compression, gap, RPM, and timing all change this plug loading.
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It is also possible that your gap is too small, in that case there is plenty of current, but there isn't enough open air spark to keep the mixture lit. Again, this goes up around torque peek and back down again in higher RPM.
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All this can be trumped by an MSD box that is bad, possible something like the rev limiter is sorta kicking in - did you remove the pill?
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Also a distributor / rotor / cap that is misaligned can cause the same issue. You are looking for something that is marginal, not something that is completely dead or disconnected.
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First thing - check the cap and rotor, make sure no moisture and everything is installed correctly and there isn't any burning.
Next, check the wires. Unseat and reseat. look for burns. Measure the resistance with an ohm meter. With MSD 8.5's, it should be 50-70 ohms a foot. With the other MSD's, 500-600 Ohms a foot. In my opinion, any plug wire over 600 ohms a foot is not on my vehicle. A quick check is to bring your old plug wires with you and swap them out. Many times old plug wires work better than the wires that replaced them.
Then double check the plug gap. Set to .045 as a starting point. Too big, possible the spark is not happening, too small, the mixture isn't staying lit. .045 is a safe gap range with a N/A engine. if you are running boost (though I don't remember you saying you have a blower), then gap them to .030.
Once that is finished, set the timing. Too much timing (as will more compression, boost, nos) will cause the plug loading to go up much like you increased the gap.
If all that checks out, Disco the vac advance, swap the coil, then swap the MSD (in that order).
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I have 8mm msd plug wires that we had to cut to length.
dumb question: if it was spark, why would it only effect the RPM range from 3500 to 4200 then clean out?
Years ago I helped a friend move to Utah, we rented a small toyota uhaul truck. Truck ran fine all around SoCal, all the way out to the 15 and up towards Barstow. When we started climbing the hills towards vegas the engine started to miss, and had ALOT of trouble getting up the hills. We were being passed by fully loaded semis up the hills. Down hills and on the flats had no problems at all. We finally made it Stateline and really started to look for the problem. In the dark you could see the spark from one of the wires jumping across to the firewall. Changed the wire in Vegas and had no other problems(except getting pulled over by the Nevada highway patrol for tags being expired)
You probably have never ran the motor in the dark so seeing the spark jump is tuff in the bright sunlight. I would go buy a cheepie set of wires and see if thats the problem. If it doesnt solve the problem you arent out that much coin! or just return them and get a better set!
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Hey Brad !!!!, Bet you thought we forgot about you. Hows that boat running?
Any more clues?
Put a Chevy in it yet? (J/K)
I have a stupid one for you, How certain are you that you're not getting an oil pressure fluctuation and causing your hydraulic rev limiters (lifters) to kick in?
I was talking to my Ford Freak freind and that was the first thing out of his mouth and I immediatley had a light bulb moment.
The friggen suspence is killing me! ???
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I have a stupid one for you, How certain are you that you're not getting an oil pressure fluctuation and causing your hydraulic rev limiters (lifters) to kick in?
I was talking to my Ford Freak freind and that was the first thing out of his mouth and I immediatley had a light bulb moment.
Milodon pan??? ;D
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The thought did cross my mind, but we would have picked up on that already right? :-\
Its not keeping me up nights yet, but its friggen close ;)
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I still say it's plug wires...
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Looking at everything that was said in this thread, you have lifter collapse issues, that oil pan if memory serves is shorter in the rear than in the front, which is not windage freindly, I am pretty sure that if you lower the oil level a couple/three quarts like electrowoman did your problem will fix itself.
Looking at the pan in the old thread from the engine build that propless sent me the link to, that windage tray is cut at an angle, which is another windage unfreindly method because the windage/turbulence pushes on one end of the oil surface and gets the oil moving in one direction causing a vortec to form in the bottom of the pan, pulling air right down to the pickup which is in the middle of the pan, (another windage unfreindly practice) the pickup should never be in the center because the swirl action of a windage issue will self center in the bottom of the pan due to the viscosity of the oil (a little like a toilet flushing).
I really need to see this resolved, I'm losing my mind :banghead:
I could be full of crap, but I have been thinking of this problem a lot (too much to tell the truth)
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Me too!!
What was it? Still cussing it?