Also is there a good way to get calcium build up out of water lines? I have all these bitchin steel braided lines and the smaller -8 lines are pretty clogged up and at 10$ a ft id like to reuse them

Can't help you on a stock alternator bracket but I ended up making my own mount and adjuster. As for oil, I run VR1 in mine for the extra additives that flat tappets require(20-50w I believe).  Try some CLR and water in a bucket with the lines submersed for a few hours, that might help loosen things up so you can run a pipe cleaner or brush through them.  Haven't tried it myself so be careful of any anodizing or coatings that could be affected.

Anplumbing.com for your fittings

Sent from my SGH-T999 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

I always run a 850 cca battery just because I'd rather have to much opposed to not enough. The starter will only pull as much as it needs so you won't over load it going bigger. My float always fires right up with no struggle on the starter, but I also don't have any electronics on the boat other than what the engine needs. One day ill add a radio.......maybe, just another thing to break on the boat I'd rather not worry about

I don't use a valve for my tanks, I draw from both at all times.  Both tanks feed a water/fuel separator and then runs to my fuel pump. Thought about running a valve but haven't found a need to really have one.

I think my boats drawing more fuel from one then the other. Id rather run one tank up river then one back down

you should ALWAYS have a valve on each tank.  if you're not running a valve you are flirting with disaster if you ever have a fuel leak.  you'll have no way to shut off the fuel. 

im a big fan of keep it simple.  90* ball valves on the tanks, to a fuel/water separator.  you'll run both tanks into it, and use one output.  run that to the fuel pump, after the fuel pump run a small micron inline fuel filter to catch the small bits, and then into the carb.  try to keep bends to a minimum etc.  every bend, every 90* fitting, etc can lower fuel pressure. 

but safety first.  you MUST have a valve on each tank to shut off the fuel. 

if you want to run off one tank, just turn off the other side and it'll suck from the open tank.  run both, open em both up.  just realize that it'll suck from the easiest tank that it can pull from so it wont be 100% even. 

Had a good day it ran bitchin. Need to mess with jetting stil cause its a little lean. Made a hard wide oped pass and killed the motor pulled a few plugs and they were white like straigjt out of the box. Went easy on her the rest of the day.

Ya definately! Tryin to make it to parker this weekend if i can lock down insurance on it

Ya definately! Tryin to make it to parker this weekend if i can lock down insurance on it

Welp got water in the oil. Took a valve cover off and have milkshake all over the rockers and wat not. Is it pretty easy to suck water in through the headers when running water through them while idling? I also have to install the timing cover/ waterpump plate myself. Is it possible to get water in the oil through there? On sunday we acidently had the header valve open when we started it to check the timing and it seemed to kinda have a hard time cranking and ran boggy for a few seconds kinda how a jetski runs when it sucks water in. Now i dont have a valve on the water inlet from the pump. My buddys dad said they never ran one during the 20 years they had the boat and never had a problem.

Header water can be a pain if modified from it's original design.  Most guys run the Bassett check valve to keep the water from entering until on the gas, I think 1500 rpm or so. If you are running a separate valve you might find a lot of baby sitting of the temp gauge and valve. Do you have a large cam or fairly stock?  Heavy cams will tend to draw water back into the cylinder with water cooled headers, most guys will just run their headers dry to eliminate this problem.  Not an expert on this or the 455 but timing/water pump cover could also be an issue in itself, may want to double check that area just for piece of mind.  Hopefully you can flush all the water out of it and find the issue without costing you much $$$.  Good luck

I've taken water on thru my headers not once, but twice. Changed the oil and filter, cleaned all the milk out and it ran good. Trying to figure out the water goin thru the lines is a trial and error type deal. I've read on here a lot of guys run a valve (from h.d.) up by the driver seat to control the water, including myself. Only opened just a bit. I close it off at idle just to be safe.