74 hallett

« **Reply #75 on:** August 15, 2013, 10:14:58 PM »

Alright I think I've got it dialed. Pin F1 is the exciter wire took that to purple ignition wire on terminal block and R2 is the battery voltage sensor and took that back to red hot wire on terminal block. I guess the idea with that wire is to get it as close to the battery as possible to pick up the voltage drop. Still trying to figure out if I need that diode or if there's one possibly built into the alternator. Don't understand how the alternator would keep the motor running once the ignition is off.

« **Reply #76 on:** August 16, 2013, 12:29:35 PM »

Looks like you got it all rigged up right. Pretty clean job on the wires too. You should need a diode, you'll find out as soon as you try and turn it off.

What happens is the alternator will back feed through the exciter wire and keep providing current to the rest of the system.

Life is uncertain. Don't sip.

« **Reply #77 on:** August 16, 2013, 12:42:01 PM »

Ok ill find oit today when i fire it up. Does the diode need to be soldered for resistance reasons or can i use a butt connector?

« **Reply #78 on:** August 16, 2013, 12:45:02 PM »

I always solder all my connections but a butt connector should work fine.

Life is uncertain. Don't sip.

« **Reply #79 on:** August 16, 2013, 12:49:44 PM »

Ok does the diode need to be soldered or can i use a butt connector? And how come the alternators dont come with a diode built in and how come trucks dont have this problem?

« **Reply #80 on:** August 16, 2013, 12:50:23 PM »

Dammit my phone a piece of shit i thot the first post disnt go through

« **Reply #81 on:** August 16, 2013, 05:36:44 PM »

Aight it works bitchin! Fired it up and it kept runnin after i turned the key off like you said. Went and got that diode you said to get wired it up and it works perfect! Thanks again for answerin all my stupid questions. I owe you some beers if i ever run into you on the water!

« **Reply #82 on:** August 16, 2013, 06:09:28 PM »

Sweet!! Glad I could help, hit me up if you have any more questions.

Life is uncertain. Don't sip.

« **Reply #83 on:** August 18, 2013, 06:20:42 PM »

Alright so the first trip out it ran lean cause the carbs were brand new out of the box. Went from a stock 58 main jets and put 70s in. Also put in 4.5 power valves compared to the stock 8.5s. Today it idled better but when I'd really put my foot in it it would start missing and sputtering. Seemed to run fine in the mod range. Didn't have this problem the first trip out. Could my fiberglass tanks be clogging my fuel lines? I tore apart one of the inline filters and didnt really see anything in it. Fuel,pressure was at 3psi when I was hammered down but I don't trust that guage it'll show 2-3 psi sitting in my driveway sometimes

« **Reply #84 on:** August 19, 2013, 05:54:32 AM »

Could the new alternator be cause this? To much or too little voltage?

« **Reply #85 on:** August 19, 2013, 05:55:00 AM »

Could the new alternator be cause this? To much or too little voltage?

« **Reply #86 on:** August 19, 2013, 06:01:56 AM »

That seems a little low on the fuel pressure. That could give you problems at full throttle

« **Reply #87 on:** August 19, 2013, 06:49:55 AM »

Im thinking thats gotta be my
Problem. I dont trust the guage at all i need to get a new one. It ran like it was starving for fuel and with new jets 12 sizes bigger i dont think it was the carbs statving it. Hopfully the pick ups in the tanks were clogged and the new tanks im putting in fix it

« **Reply #88 on:** August 19, 2013, 05:02:56 PM »

Also noticed my headers are leaking between the flanges and manifold. 3 out of 4 ports on both sides i can feel air blowing through

« **Reply #89 on:** August 20, 2013, 07:52:01 AM »

There new gaskets too. Is that somewhat normal for bassets? Doesnt seem right. Could that be cause the high rpm missing and sputtering?

« **Reply #90 on:** August 20, 2013, 08:46:02 AM »

Quote from: Bunger on August 20, 2013, 07:52:01 AM

There new gaskets too. Is that somewhat normal for bassets? Doesnt seem right. Could that be cause the high rpm missing and sputtering?

That's probably not likely to cause a misfire or sputtering. I had the same issue with my exhaust leaking and it's a common occurance for some reason. I ended up replacing the gaskets with a bead of silicone on both sides to take up any of the gaps. You can take them off and try a straight edge on the flange to see if they are warpped or try to find thicker gaskets.

I think you should look over your fuel system first. What size line do you have from the tank? What type of fuel pump and GPH? Fuel pressure(replace the gauge)? How good are the carbs working for this setup(are they close to being tuned)? Since you have the potential to plug them with tank debris from the fiberglass tanks you could spend a lot of time and money chasing this issue, I've been there along with a few other guys around. I had 3 fuel filters at one point and still managed to get fibers in the float bowls along with a varnished intake manifold. Get an accurate fuel pressure reading and make sure your pump can supply the volume needed for both carbs, then maybe grab a few jets and head to the lake.

« **Reply #91 on:** August 20, 2013, 10:14:49 AM »

Got -8 all the way to the bulkhead then -6 to each carb. Mallory 140 series pump and mallory regulater. The fuel system supported the 660 center squirts that were on it originally. So i think it should all be alrigjt and i went through thenpump and regulator yesterday and everythig looked good internally. As far as pressure the old guage at the lake sundayand one point showed as high as 7 then as low as 2or 3 but that guage would also say 2-3 just sitting in my driveway under the cover i think heat was building up pressure or something.. Yesterday i bought a new marshall and before installing it the old guage said 3psi when i turned the pump on. Pit new guage on and nothing registered. Tried again and got 2psi then adjusted the regulator and got rhe new guage up to 7.5. Then for shits and giggles i put the old guage on and it showed 12! Idk what to think im baffled.

« **Reply #92 on:** August 20, 2013, 10:36:03 AM »

Im gunna try to swap the tanks this weekend and clean everything out new filters then see how the fuel pressure is. Then hopfully take
It to a carb shop and have them at least get me close.

« **Reply #93 on:** August 20, 2013, 01:16:33 PM »

Quote from: Bunger on August 20, 2013, 10:14:49 AM

Got -8 all the way to the bulkhead then -6 to each carb. Mallory 140 series pump and mallory regulater. The fuel system supported the 660 center squirts that were on it originally. So i think it should all be alrigjt and i went through thenpump and regulator yesterday and everythig looked good internally. As far as pressure the old guage at the lake sundayand one point showed as high as 7 then as low as 2or 3 but that guage would also say 2-3 just sitting in my driveway under the cover i think heat was building up pressure or something.. Yesterday i bought a new marshall and before installing it the old guage said 3psi when i turned the pump on. Pit new guage on and nothing registered. Tried again and got 2psi then adjusted the regulator and got rhe new guage up to 7.5. Then for shits and giggles i put the old guage on and it showed 12! Idk what to think im baffled.

Sounds like you have a good setup for the fuel system but that pressure is a bit odd. It's in the ball park though so maybe having the carbs gone through and tuned will help. I tend to see a consistant 6-7psi when idling and not much change while running it up in the RPM.

« **Reply #94 on:** August 20, 2013, 01:26:19 PM »

Ya im thinking andhopig that with the big change in pressure that it was the tank pock ups getting clogged

« **Reply #95 on:** August 20, 2013, 10:23:58 PM »

Got itchy today

Also took haulsballs' idea and glassed in a "dam" to keep bilge water from comin up the v into the carpet. Got one tank out and gunna get the other one tommorow. Picking up used 11gal tanks Thursday having my buddy weld tabs and relocate filler neck Friday and hopefully install the tanks Saturday and get on the lake Sunday. A lot of maybes though.

« **Reply #96 on:** August 20, 2013, 11:16:05 PM »

welcome to the addiction u will soon need an intervention like the rest of us! sweet boat removin those glass tanks was def a move in the right direction great job not bein scared to tear your new boat up! if your engines needs 5-6 psi at idle it def needs that at wot your psi shouldnt fluctuate when u stabb it hard it should really only barley lower your gauge mostly only gauge movement from boat bouncin in the water u said 12 jets bigger in the carbs? that seems a lil much if it was runnin good just lil lean I wouldve started bout 2 size increments and where did u get your pv change info from did u measure your vacum at WOT and idle whatnot to justify PV change? there sum super sharp carb guys on here that could help u with a base tune and u could save money on a carb shop that might not kno how to wrk on old carb anyways get help with a base tune u will need a cheap vacum gauge talk to couple guys u can def get close than just look for that pretty brown on yhe plug great lookin boat! ill trade u sum pocket lint and a bag of skittles for it in yhe non runnin condition that old thing in! lol get your new tanks in all bugs worked out then make sure and BLOW that olds up real good before winter so nxt year u can..........put the correct engine in the boat!C:-)

Sent from my GT-P3113 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

« **Reply #97 on:** August 20, 2013, 11:32:01 PM »

Very clean you will enjoy it love my jet

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« **Reply #98 on:** August 21, 2013, 12:59:03 AM »

If u know how to run and take care of that olds it will treat u write. I have read post on here where some guys talk shit about olds motors but I'm still running mine just fine while they are always breaking their 454 or 460 and sitting at home while I'm on the water every weekend so run it good and take care of it and it will do u fine.

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« **Reply #99 on:** August 21, 2013, 05:10:44 AM »

Quote from: bigred88 on August 20, 2013, 11:16:05 PM

welcome to the addiction u will soon need an intervention like the rest of us! sweet boat removin those glass tanks was def a move in the right direction great job not bein scared to tear your new boat up! if your engines needs 5-6 psi at idle it def needs that at wot your psi shouldnt fluctuate when u stabb it hard it should really only barley lower your gauge mostly only gauge movement from boat bouncin in the water u said 12 jets bigger in the carbs? that seems a lil much if it was runnin good just lil lean I wouldve started bout 2 size increments and where did u get your pv change info from did u measure your vacum at WOT and idle whatnot to justify PV change? there sum super sharp carb guys on here that could help u with a base tune and u could save money on a carb shop that might not kno how to wrk on old carb anyways get help with a base tune u will need a cheap vacum gauge talk to couple guys u can def get close than just look for that pretty brown on yhe plug great lookin boat! ill trade u sum pocket lint and a bag of skittles for it in yhe non runnin condition that old thing in! lol get your new tanks in all bugs worked out then make sure and BLOW that olds up real good before winter so nxt year u can..........put the correct engine in the boat!C:-)

Sent from my GT-P3113 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

The guys who built the motor and oroginal boat owner lives 5 house down when i first fired up the motor he was helping me adjust the idle ect. Said it was way to rich to get a low smooth idle and said the p valve were too big. I got a vaccum guage at aitozone and was gettin 10-11 at idle so i went with a 4.5

As far as the jets the 660 center squirts that were onnit had 76s and apparently it ran bitchin with those. so i just figured 70s would be a good place to start on the 450s then again i dont know shit about these big ol carbs. Especially two of them haha

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