What camshaft? Roller? Flat?

I'll have all the specs for you just getting the build sheet but non roller lifters


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Use a drill mounted oil pump primer to get oil pressure up before you install the distributor.  I also prefer to get the distributor in and timing set before installing the spark plugs, crank the engine over a few revolutions, confirm you have oil pressure and no leaks, then install spark plugs.

Don't forget to leave the driveline sitting on the ground.

If you have to stop for one reason or another,  start from the beginning and completely do it over.

Have some zip ties and a pair of diagnals on your pocket,  to set the throttle speed, use a tie wrap

GT

You know there is very little that requires break in. If all the clearances are right, it'll be fine. If all the bolts are tight, it'll be fine. Just make sure it has oil in it, and doesn't overheat. Think of it this way, does Nascar break anything in, do Folks "break in" a new vehicle, is Top Fuel "broke in", does a dyno session "break it in", . I think we all know the answer. Give 'er. If it is good, no problem, and if you did something wrong, you will know right away. Just my two cents worth.

You know there is very little that requires break in. If all the clearances are right, it'll be fine. If all the bolts are tight, it'll be fine. Just make sure it has oil in it, and doesn't overheat. Think of it this way, does Nascar break anything in, do Folks "break in" a new vehicle, is Top Fuel "broke in", does a dyno session "break it in", . I think we all know the answer. Give 'er. If it is good, no problem, and if you did something wrong, you will know right away. Just my two cents worth.

Every single engine that goes on a dyno goes through a "break-in" procedure... unless your dyno operator is a hack. And basically you do not break in a flat tappet cam... you just pissed away a lot of money and time as it will fail... no ifs ands or buts.


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According to Larry Shepard, from the MoPar Engines 8th ed. book:

Engine Break-In with Rough Bore Finish

When chrome flashed rings are used, cylinder bore finish should be 15-25 micro inches.  This is fairly rough as is the production bore finish of 20-30 micro inches.  The proper break in procedure with this bore finish is (for a car):

*  10 part throttle shift cycles @ 3500 RPM

*  5 part throttle shift cycles @ 5000 RPM

*  Cool down to dead cold

*  3 part throttle shift cycles @ 750 RPM below maximum

*  3 part throttle shift cycles @ 250 RPM below maximum

*  Cool down.

*  Race.


Engine Break-In with Smooth Bore Finish

With the new smooth hone finish (AN5OI Sunnen stone-wet) on the cylinder walls, resulting in 10-15 micro inches, the following procedure should be used for engine break in:

*  Each run should consist of short interval 1/2 to 2/3 load bursts.

*  5-6 runs beginning at 4500 RPM.

*  Increase the engine speed each time approximately 500 RPM.  Cool each 2-3 runs.  Don't let the engine get over 180-degrees F (car).

*  Final run of break-in cycle -- Max power RPM.