I am planning on putting the dual gunnel tanks in my boat to go play on the river memorial day weekend. Currently I have the single 6 gallon bullet tank. I have some questions on what would be the ideal way to set this up.

The way the tanks were set up when I got it there was a line that went from each tank to a "T" then went straight to the fuel pump. There was no valves or switches in this contraption.

Also, There is only one fuel level sender. One tank does not have one or have provisions for one.

Should I just throw them in there the way it was originally set up? or should I put in a L/R/Both/Off valve?

I assume if you're not running one of those valves, it would self level between the 2 tanks so you would only need 1 level sender....but if you're running a valve, how would you accurately get fuel level readings in the 2nd tank? Should I not bother with what the gauge says and bring a wooden dowel? 

I normally would figure out something like this by trail and error, but I don't want to be messing with it and have fuel delivery issues on the river.

I pull from both tanks to a Aeromotive Y Block and use 1 sender in the driver side tank. The system pulls both tanks equally and the fuel gauge is really accurate. I have 2-15 gallon tanks and I didnt want the weight being throw off having 15 gallons in 1 tank and a couple gallons in the other. Plus it was less expensive in plumbing.

Not intending to hijack really but,  I've got two identical long saddle tanks monitored with 2 gages. They feed equally to water seperator then single from there.  According to gages and visual checks everything is cool until right tank gets to half full and then gas doesn't draw anymore. Why?

maybe the pickup tube is sucking air? 

I am thinking of just putting shut off valves in line between the tank and the 'T' just in case I run into something like this or if one tank draws more then the other, so if one runs dry and the other is 1/4 full, i can shut off the valve on the dry tank and force it to draw from the one thats full.

Hey Brad,  what valves will you use and where are you getting them?   Greg

i havent gotten that far yet.

I know its a rough concept for some people here....but plan first, buy second.   

My -12AN lines go from the tanks to the water sep/ fuel filter. There are shut off valves on each inlet side to the water sep. fuel filter. From the Water sep. fuel filter I have -10 AN line to the pump and -8AN line to the carb set up. I can reach back with my oar and turn the valves on or off when I need to. Also have two sending units hooked to one gauge using a DPDT switch.
  T.J.

just make the hoses the same length it should drain equally

So Rod how did you fix it short of cutting the tank?

Yeah my p/u tube is welded in. Can't figure a way to "sleeve" it.

Yeah my p/u tube is welded in. Can't figure a way to "sleeve" it.

What is the tank made of? (steel, ss, aluminum, etc..) Where the fuel pickup tube is welded in at, is it flat, rounded, etc...? Pics?

here is what I did. I had one of those electric solenoids but it quit on me and I had to get towed in (that really sux!!!). So I went to Lowes and got two 1/4 turn ball valves and a t and put them in. I run one tank up river and switch to other tank for trip home. It may make the boat a little off balance but not much more than the cooler, pop up shade, chairs, tools, anchor, etc does. Just my $.02. If you could run a hose from bottom corners of the tanks that would allow fuel to cross over from tank to tank, that would help them drain equally. I was think of doing this when I pull tanks out. I want to add bigger pick up tubes and fittings for return lines when I get around to supercharging.