I know, I know... Pics!  Here is one and I will get more.

ka0tyk,
  Thanks.  Is there anything I need to disconnect at the drive/pump connection?  I think this is pretty straight forward.  I just want to fix the oil leak and freeze plugs with out messing anything up or having to do major adjustments after reinstall.

Jim

ka0tyk,
  Thanks.  Is there anything I need to disconnect at the drive/pump connection?  I think this is pretty straight forward.  I just want to fix the oil leak and freeze plugs with out messing anything up or having to do major adjustments after reinstall.

Jim

Just the tail end of the bell housing, the drive shaft yolk should slide out as you ease the motor forward.

Okay,
  I have everything off and ready to pull the engine tonight.

1.  The reason I am pulling it is it leaks fresh clean oil just when sitting.  It has leaked it all the way down to where nothing shows on the dip stick.  Any idea what can cause this?

2.  I am changing the freeze plugs.  What is the best way to flush the silt/junk out?

3.  I am going to change the U-joint as well.  How do I find the right part # for the U-joint?

4.  Is there anything else that I should do while I have the engine out?

As always, thanks for the help.

 

First I would like to thank everyone for their help and responses.  I have pulled the engine:
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And found the culprit of the oil leak: a completely rusted oil plug
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Also pulled the freeze plugs and removed the u joint:
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Now I need help with the parts.
1.  Where can I find a stock oil pan replacement?
2.  What U-joints do I need or how do I find the part number?
3.  Do I need to replace the freeze plug on the back of the block behind the fly-wheel?

Is there anything I am missing?  Thanks for assisting me with this project/process.

Jim

LO,
  Thanks.  I was just reading some of your posts on the BBF issues.  You guys are all very knowledgable on these things!!!  I am trying to get it up and running as soon as possible and unfortunately as inexpensively as possible as well.

I will post the pics tonight after I pull the pan.

Jim

OK.  Got the pan pulled and found a pin hole leak right above the drain plug.  How can I tell what pan/part number I have to get a new one?  Or is there a way to fix it?

Here are the pics.

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Is there a place to find out what this pan is?
Here is the pump and pick-up part # D5UE AA

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Ragin, Thanks.

What you have there is not a stock 460 passenger car pan & pickup by any means, it is a
somewhat rare, low production, industrial engine oil pan & pickup. It is a deep sump 1/2-length
oil pan with a special front sump pickup (D9TE-6622-CA) which bolts to a rear sump style oil pump. (Ford went to a
full-length deep pan and rear sump pickup shortly afterwards.)

My guess is that they are almost impossible to find. I have only seen two in my life, and one of
them is yours in these pictures. The other one, I personally own (both the pan & pickup).

The rust looks localized and might be only on the exterior (not rusted through). My recommendation
is that you evaluate it's structural integrity; if it seems essentially solid (not as rusted out as it
looks) then simply get the pan beadblasted and have the small oil leak (the pin hole) tig welded and
you'll be good to go. I would also suggest that you ask the welder to add a vertical "slosh baffle" at
the deepest part of the pan right were it begins to rise to the shallower part.

If you need to replace that pan, I will consider selling you the one that I have for a very reasonable price (or maybe even an exchange).

LO

I think your oil pan could be welded in less than 90 seconds and be leak-free again. Having said that, the corrosion on its exterior gives
me pause as to how long it might be before it springs a new leak somewhere else.  Could be good for years to come or it could spring a new
leak this summer. None of us can tell how porous the sheetmetal is from your pictures, you need to evaluate it yourself and draw your
own conclusion.

I looked around the shop and it turns out that I have two of those oil pans (just one pickup), so I'd be willing to let one go. They are solid as
new but will need a very light bead blast in order to remove a patch of surface oxidation (actually scotch brite/WD-40 might do it). It's hard to
tell from your photos but after looking at my pans I am surpsied at how vertical the rise is from the deep part to the shallow part; adding a
vertical slosh baffle isn't as necessary as I thought.  Also, the pickup design puts the pickup box at the rear of the sump (near the drain plug)
which makes this oil pan design a mid-sump pan in effect, and in a jet boat I think that's certainly better than a true front sump pan. My guess
is the engine will hold 8 quarts with filter, etc, when you reinstall it.

For this particular oil pan type, I'd want $90 shipped for the one I have. That's about 20% the price of a new jet boat pan so I don't think
it's a bad deal. And it's a direct fit for your current setup.

Call (weekdays) or PM if interested,

LO
310-435-1900

LO,
  Thanks.  I'm going to take it to a machine shop by the base tomorrow and see if they can do it (and how much).  Then maybe the POR 15 YM recommended?  Never saw that stuff before.

I have researched and read and then read some more and now I am more confused.  So here is the question:

What brand and grade oil should I use for a stock early 80's 460? 

Is that 1 qt of Lucas 20-50 or something esle?  Why do you add the Lucas?  As you can see, my pan is stock so 6 quarts.  Would you run 5 of the VR1 and 1 of Lucas?