Oil Change Question?

« **on:** March 30, 2009, 03:49:11 PM »

I just bought the new boat about a week ago. The motor is fresh. The oil looks brand new. I was thinking about when I will need to change the oil. I started looking at the oil pan and their is no hose hooked to where the drain plug is. How am I supposed to drain the oil? I could pull the plug but then I would fill the boat with oil. Is there a way to go through the dipstick and suck it out with some kind of tool. My old boat had a rubber hose that connected at the drain plug and had a plug in the end that you remove to drain the oil. Please help clear this up. Sorry for the newbie questions. Thanks.

« **Reply #1 on:** March 30, 2009, 03:59:10 PM »

Yes , they do have a kit/pump that will drain thru the dipstick... check online or at your closest Marine store...

I will try to find it also and post it up......

« **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2009, 04:03:47 PM »

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0001133011822a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntt=oil+pump&Ntk=Products&sort=all&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&_D%3Asort=+&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1

« **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2009, 04:06:57 PM »

I just got a Motive from Summit, it's funny b/c I'm in the garage doing the oil change now, it's not the fastest thing in the world, been 2 hours only 5 qts out but I didn't run the engine very long to warm the oil either, next time I'll do the change @ the lake right after I trailer the boat. Good luck, BTW I think the hose style suck big green balls.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MVP%2D1708&N=700+400590+115&autoview=sku

« **Reply #4 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:16:58 AM »

Thanks guys. I will check into that. I felt the hose thing sucked too. Trying to get oil to flow down that hose doesnt seem realistic. When do you guys change your oil anyway? After the season is over? Thanks for the help. TC

« **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:25:46 AM »

I change mine at the beginning of the season and about mid way through.

« **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:35:46 AM »

The small drain hoses take some time, but you can leave it over night?

In many of the race boats that I have been around and built engines for, an AN fitting is put into the pan and capped off. When it's time to change the oil, a separated hose is run though the drain in the transom, the cap unscrewed and the hose screwed onto the fitting without losing much oil, so it's easy to clean up. Using a -10 fitting (5/8" hose) lets it drain reasonably quickly.

« **Reply #7 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:42:49 AM »

Any body ever use these:

http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram+&+Autolite/750898/10002/-1

I had one on a car and flockin loved it, made it so easy to drain the pan. Havent had one on a boat though

« **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2009, 10:10:00 AM »

Quote from: obnoxious001 on March 31, 2009, 09:35:46 AM

The small drain hoses take some time, but you can leave it over night?

In many of the race boats that I have been around and built engines for, an AN fitting is put into the pan and capped off. When it's time to change the oil, a separated hose is run though the drain in the transom, the cap unscrewed and the hose screwed onto the fitting without losing much oil, so it's easy to clean up. Using a -10 fitting (5/8" hose) lets it drain reasonably quickly.

I'm kinda liking this plan, I'm pulling the trigger on a new(to me) pan in the morning. Does anyone make a steel an fitting I can have welded in, or would I need to get like a 2 piece o-ringed deal, and hope it doesn't loosen up? I'm not so crazy about the 2nd option.

« **Reply #9 on:** March 31, 2009, 10:18:52 AM »

i welded a fitting to the bottem side of my oil pan. i can change my oil in about 5 mins. i ran a line from the bung up the transom. so that when i want to change the oil i uncork that line stick it thru my water outlet in the transom and out comes all the oil. best mod i have done so far.

« **Reply #10 on:** March 31, 2009, 10:49:14 AM »

Quote from: SLCKREG on March 31, 2009, 10:10:00 AM

I'm kinda liking this plan, I'm pulling the trigger on a new(to me) pan in the morning. Does anyone make a steel an fitting I can have welded in, or would I need to get like a 2 piece o-ringed deal, and hope it doesn't loosen up? I'm not so crazy about the 2nd option.

Kreg
If the pan does not have a 1/2" pipe bung already, you can get one welded in. Then you simply use a regular AN adapter and cap. I used a cheaper brass pushlock fitting in a chunk of old garden hose as my drain line, long enough to extend past my cavitation plates into a bucket.

There are also AN fittings (Rex Marine) that go into the standard drain plug hole, but that restricts flow quite a bit, still neater than having a hose lying in the bilge all the time.

« **Reply #11 on:** March 31, 2009, 11:12:37 AM »

Does anyone know of a replacement drain plug w/ a hose or fitting to drain oil through for a milodin 10qt pan? I'm not sure what size it drain plug is, but it is huge compared to stock.. I was thinking about taking it out and drilling through the middle of it and tapping my old drain plug/hose into it.. I would love to not go through the hassle though!

« **Reply #12 on:** March 31, 2009, 11:19:47 AM »

Rex Marine should have what you need.
http://rexmar.com/page273.html

« **Reply #13 on:** March 31, 2009, 11:46:15 AM »

Thanks.. Unfortunately, it's not it big enough.. I don't know the exact measurement, but I think the drain plug bolt on the milodon pan has threads that are about 1 1/4"..

« **Reply #14 on:** March 31, 2009, 12:07:15 PM »

Quote from: dm2bfree on March 31, 2009, 11:46:15 AM

Thanks.. Unfortunately, it's not it big enough.. I don't know the exact measurement, but I think the drain plug bolt on the milodon pan has threads that are about 1 1/4"..

That might be just a large pipe thread plug, easy to buy an adapter and cap and use a hose as I described above.

« **Reply #15 on:** March 31, 2009, 12:49:21 PM »

if it is pipe thread just buy a nipple and a T-Valve from your local hardware store. 90 off the T-valve and add a hose.

« **Reply #16 on:** March 31, 2009, 01:23:36 PM »

http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=719

these work pretty well

« **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2009, 01:28:41 PM »

you are going to have to decide what size you need but they will have the one that will fit your application.

« **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2009, 04:33:14 PM »

those sure drains by fram work well on cars. I bet you could get one and extend the hose because they only have about 6 inches of hose on them, and run it out the transom drain plug, and if you ran the engine to heat the oil it would probably work pretty well. Those banjo fitting hose setups suck from what I have seen. Its a tiny ass hole and takes forever if the oils cold.

« **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:18:33 PM »

Quote from: maddogg20 on March 31, 2009, 04:33:14 PM

those sure drains by fram work well on cars. I bet you could get one and extend the hose because they only have about 6 inches of hose on them, and run it out the transom drain plug, and if you ran the engine to heat the oil it would probably work pretty well. Those banjo fitting hose setups suck from what I have seen. Its a tiny ass hole and takes forever if the oils cold.

The hose on the fram deal is just connected with a clip...easy to switch out for a longer one. The oil flows pretty well even cold out of em, cant imagine you would have to heat it up that much, just lift the front of the trailer.

« **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:26:06 PM »

Quote from: OC2Vegas on March 31, 2009, 06:18:33 PM

just lift the front of the trailer.

Exactly

« **Reply #21 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:10:55 PM »

i ran one of tom's (jbp) hose kits on forkedup, lifted the front of the boat on friday night, put the hose out the transom drain and into a bucket, let it drain all night while i drank, capped it off sat morning and refilled with fresh oil, not much hassle, no mess, and it drained while i was passed out, what more could you want

« **Reply #22 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:20:28 PM »

I am an HVAC tech and have a 115 volt gear pump that I use on my oil pan drain hose, I can literally change the oil (10 qts.) and filter in 15 mins. if the oil is warm, which is pretty easy because there is a lake 5 mins. from mi casa !

These pumps are super duper cheap, Grainger sells them as a kit, I use it a few times a month at work...

GT

« **Reply #23 on:** March 31, 2009, 10:19:16 PM »

Yeah..I use the one from the dipstick tube...Make sure the oil is "warmed up" and it works "pretty good" it'll get most of it and if you do it correctly...there is no mess at all!

I have had the "oil drain plug kit",I have had the "drain it thru the bottom of the boat thru the transom" shmit. They all work but GT has a good idea...but in the meantime,goin' thru the dipstick tube with "warmed up oil", I think you'll do just fine.....

« **Reply #24 on:** March 31, 2009, 11:02:52 PM »

I had to have my oil changed ahead of plan at Lake mead a few weeks ago. The boat shop there used one of the Motives Skip mentioned. Worked like a charm, but took a little time. Not a problem because they had a hard time finding a filter that would clear the stringer! Opened like 15 or so filters before one fit. (Putting on the remote kit Thursday. Had to wait to find a different deal with the block adapter outlets coming out the sides AND top of it)

Anyway, they got out 9 1/2 quarts, which is a little more than I had put in it to begin with (Water was the balance).

Convinced me that it works. I was concerned because of my 10 qt Milodon pan as well. Seems to me I can just use the vaccuum deal just fine. Slow is ok, as after this year, I probably won't have to change my oil but once a season, running Joe Gibbs stuff.

Ray

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