proper cam break in

« **Reply #25 on:** June 27, 2008, 10:52:57 AM »

ok i went to every auto parts store in town. there is no break in additive. so i got rotella 15w30 and i got a 30w non detergent oil that was recomended by the guy at napa who just broke in his boat motor last weekend.

what do you guys suggest i do now. use the rotella or the non detergent oil.

« **Reply #26 on:** June 27, 2008, 11:20:19 AM »

I suggest you call me and I will ship you a couple of bottles of the comp cams break in additive.

« **Reply #27 on:** June 27, 2008, 11:35:12 AM »

Aqua,
You guys are in Cali. The hot rod capital of the world. You should be able to find this stuff locally. Now here in CT. it would be close to impossible to find it locally.
T.J.

« **Reply #28 on:** June 27, 2008, 12:07:50 PM »

I WILL BE BREAKING IN MY CAM SOMETIME NEXT WEEK. AND I WILL BE USING THE SAME TYPE OF OIL I WILL BE RUNNING IN THE BOAT 15W/40 HIGH ZINC CONTENT I HAVE 55 GALLONS HERE SO WHY NOT USE IT. WITH GM BRAKE IN LUBE ADDED TO THE OIL. I'LL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT GOES.

« **Reply #29 on:** June 27, 2008, 12:16:27 PM »

ya anywhere else in cali it would be easy. but i am up near death valley every specialty part i have ever needed has needed to have been ordered.

so are you guys saying i should wait till i can get some break in oil up here.

like said i have ten quarts of retola 15w30

and i have ten quarts of 30 non detergent oil.

are either of these a suitable substitute. last year i just put some crappy oil in it and fired it up. then changed it after about 20 mins or so.. but then again last year was not a good year for the boat. heince the new motor for this year.

« **Reply #30 on:** June 27, 2008, 12:21:41 PM »

Quote from: VAMI on June 24, 2008, 08:51:06 PM

Its the zinc that is gone in oil...Guess it cheaper to produce the oil without it.

The zinc is being recuced/eliminated because it kills catalytlic converters. Look for engine oils that specify "Racing Oil" and "not intended for street use/for off-highway use only" right on the bottle. Not a garantee but a step in the right direction in regards to good engine oils. Also, racing oils usually have a higher concentration of anti-foaming agent, which is good for our sustained upper rpm engines.

LO

« **Reply #31 on:** June 27, 2008, 12:27:53 PM »

Quote from: AQUAHOLIC on June 25, 2008, 08:14:41 AM

...so i plan on running rotella with additive
disconnecting the drive line and run for 20 mins at 2k to 2500rpm.
set timing while doing cam break in.
change oil and head to the river.

does this sound ok to you guys.

Unless I missed it, you have not specified in this thread what you have for an engine, cam, and spring pressures. Assuming that you have a mild hydraulic lifter camshaft, I would say that your approach is reasonable, except: start cam break-in at 1500-2000 rpm, not 2000-2500 rpm. Nevermind that your cam tag recomends 2500 rpm, because they would rather you don't scuff your cam even at the risk of engine failure. This far I have always had success breaking in engines at 1500+/- rpm, and once at temperature, giving occasional blips to 2000 rpm. If the cam wipes, it wipes...and you get a new cam. but if you grenade your engine and your cam is fine, there ain't no cam maufactuer on the planet that will fix your engine.

LO

« **Reply #32 on:** June 27, 2008, 01:05:16 PM »

Ummmmm How is 2500 rpm's going to grenade an engine. I don't get it.

« **Reply #33 on:** June 27, 2008, 03:48:29 PM »

Personally, esp in a Chevy, get the right stuff, wait if you have to. I personally would make the drive to the local (as it can be) GM dealer and get the EOS.

Your sig says west cov, long way from death valley.

You could look at the truck stop for the high zinc diesel engine oils.

« **Reply #34 on:** June 27, 2008, 03:56:53 PM »

ya i used to live in west covina. took a job up here at china lake.

so both the oils i bought today will not work is that what i am getting?

as for my motor it is pretty much a stock 454 stock heads and valve train. Aggressive marine cam i dont remember the numbers on that. and solid lifters. air gap intake, msd ignition, demon 800 carb. with hardin marine headers.

if i dont get the boat running this weekend i probably wont make my river trip next weekend.

« **Reply #35 on:** June 27, 2008, 08:01:14 PM »

Quote from: AQUAHOLIC on June 27, 2008, 03:56:53 PM

ya i used to live in west covina. took a job up here at china lake.

so both the oils i bought today will not work is that what i am getting?

as for my motor it is pretty much a stock 454 stock heads and valve train. Aggressive marine cam i dont remember the numbers on that. and solid lifters. air gap intake, msd ignition, demon 800 carb. with hardin marine headers.

if i dont get the boat running this weekend i probably wont make my river trip next weekend.

What's the open pressure rating on your valve springs? I too run a BBC and with the inner spring installed mine are 400 lbs open. I had my machine shop leave the inner springs out and just install the outer and the damper spring for cam break in. I then used Chevron 15W-40 Delo for my breakin oil. After the motor was broke in I installed the inner springs and 40 hours later I have absolutely no problems.

« **Reply #36 on:** June 27, 2008, 08:41:12 PM »

i have no idea what my spring pressure is. and i am not going to pull the motor apart to take the springs off. so i will probably just run this rotella stuff i will keep looking for some additive, i just dont want to have another summer like last year..

« **Reply #37 on:** June 27, 2008, 11:43:58 PM »

The problem is you said an aggressive marine cam. What's aggressive? Who's cam is it?

It matters. A LOT. Esp in a Chevy.

If you are not running a dual spring, you are probably OK.

This is one of the reasons I went roller, just too many worries with old technology running with new (not as good) lubricants. All new engines nowadays are rollers, no zinc required.

BTW - you don't have to tear down the engine to change the springs, you just need an air compresser to keep the valves up while you compress the spring and pull the keepers.

« **Reply #38 on:** June 28, 2008, 09:49:56 AM »

Quote from: speedymopars on June 27, 2008, 11:43:58 PM

The problem is you said an aggressive marine cam. What's aggressive? Who's cam is it?

It matters. A LOT. Esp in a Chevy.

If you are not running a dual spring, you are probably OK.

This is one of the reasons I went roller, just too many worries with old technology running with new (not as good) lubricants. All new engines nowadays are rollers, no zinc required.

BTW - you don't have to tear down the engine to change the springs, you just need an air compresser to keep the valves up while you compress the spring and pull the keepers.

Yep...go to Napa and get what's called an 'on head valve spring compressor'. Also you'll need an air fitting that screws into the spark plug hole so that you can pressurize the cylinder to keep the valves from dropping down into the motor just like speedymopars said. I'd rather do that then risk flattening a cam.

« **Reply #39 on:** June 28, 2008, 08:37:59 PM »

good advice guys. i have been doing my research i dont want to have another summer of pulling motors. i am thinking of letting the engine builder do the cam break in that way if there is any problem he will be responsible. his shop is only 3 blocks from myhouse..haha..

i will let ya know what happens. i was planning on starting it this weekend but the builder is not open this weekend

« **Reply #40 on:** June 28, 2008, 09:18:06 PM »

If you prime your oil system with a drill and run the Rotella I don't think you'll have a problem. We always primed them then fired up changing speeds between 1800-2500 rpms. We lost 1 cam in the last
30 years or so with a wiped lobe. I'd call that dam lucky or doing it the right way. (or both)

Changing RPM's was supposed to sling oil to different areas keeping every thing happy. I don't know if it helped but it didn't hurt. It's a slow RPM walk not blipping the throttle.

The cam makers want you to have as much oil supply to the cam as possible on lift off. And rightfully so!

« **Reply #41 on:** June 28, 2008, 09:24:08 PM »

Quote from: AQUAHOLIC on June 28, 2008, 08:37:59 PM

good advice guys. i have been doing my research i dont want to have another summer of pulling motors. i am thinking of letting the engine builder do the cam break in that way if there is any problem he will be responsible. his shop is only 3 blocks from myhouse..haha..

i will let ya know what happens. i was planning on starting it this weekend but the builder is not open this weekend

3 blocks from your house - YES. Have him do it - that way he can't blame you for any failure ike a wiped cam lobe. One or two days isn't gonna kill you esp with that protection - but it may save you. He would have a hard time arguing that you were responsible for a flattened the cam when he broke it in.

« **Reply #42 on:** June 28, 2008, 09:37:58 PM »

that is what i am thinking

« **Reply #43 on:** January 03, 2009, 05:44:31 PM »

Old ass thread, but had a thought, I have to break in the Comp XM cam in my BBC in the next few weeks.

I was thinking why not put the motor together, less pistons/rods, intake manifold, electrics and all, putting some break in oil in it and running the motor on belt driven electric motor to break in the cam?

Ralph posted up a cam break in machine and that's what got me to thinking....

Thoughts? Input? Anybody ever try it?....My biggest problem is noise and not having the pump in the boat, I could do this in the rain in the garage on the engine stand......

GT

« **Reply #44 on:** January 03, 2009, 05:56:53 PM »

how you going to control oil pressure

« **Reply #45 on:** January 03, 2009, 06:06:16 PM »

I was thinking use hose clamps and some rubber strapping I have on the rod journals and use the oil pump in the motor with a 50# bypass spring, driven off the distributor, obviously will have to have the oil pan and timing cover on...

I'd have the entire engine sort of "together" less intake, pistons, rods, exhaust and so on, I even have a set of BBC "balance bobs" I could throw on the rod journals, just don't think they'll clear anything...

GT

« **Reply #46 on:** January 03, 2009, 06:41:53 PM »

i dont see why it wouldn't work $:-\$ cam research is where i sent mine. 60bucks

« **Reply #47 on:** January 08, 2009, 07:50:26 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on January 03, 2009, 05:44:31 PM

Old ass thread, but had a thought, I have to break in the Comp XM cam in my BBC in the next few weeks.

I was thinking why not put the motor together, less pistons/rods, intake manifold, electrics and all, putting some break in oil in it and running the motor on belt driven electric motor to break in the cam?

Ralph posted up a cam break in machine and that's what got me to thinking....

Thoughts? Input? Anybody ever try it?....My biggest problem is noise and not having the pump in the boat, I could do this in the rain in the garage on the engine stand......

I Think this is way to "egg head " for me guys I'm going for the Tylenol

GT

« **Reply #48 on:** January 08, 2009, 08:07:04 PM »

I had put this in another post...

Here is an interesting option you might be interested in. You send them your cam and lifters..., and they break it in simulating your setup. Fee is $60.00 for a 30 minute break-in

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/

Also this ZDDP is probably the best additive to increase zinc levels to your favorite flavor oil...(low zinc in todays oil is the main reason cams fail soon after break-in)

http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/How_to_use.html

xoxo
poverty

« **Reply #49 on:** January 08, 2009, 08:14:04 PM »

Quote from: povertyjet on January 08, 2009, 08:07:04 PM

I had put this in another post...

Here is an interesting option you might be interested in. You send them your cam and lifters..., and they break it in simulating your setup. Fee is $60.00 for a 30 minute break-in

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/

Also this ZDDP is probably the best additive to increase zinc levels to your favorite flavor oil...(low zinc in todays oil is the main reason cams fail soon after break-in)

http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/How_to_use.html

xoxo
poverty

I don't have an oil issue, I use Amsoils 10-40 Racing oil, also been using Comps, cam lube additive, the reason I want to try this is stupid curiosity...The cam break in deal looks cool, but it got me to thinking doing it this way because I have two identical 468 BBC's and they are both machined and ready to go back together, so I can, at this time get two birds with one stone....

Probably do it this weekend while everyone else is having fun at the Tom Papp run

GT

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