If it is using the traditional pad mount starter it can and probably needs to be shimmed.

? can I shim this starter with the motor out? how do I verify the alignment?

Propper starter pinion to ring gear engagement is critical on all Chevys for correct engagement ,disengagment and starter /ring gear longevity the measuyrement is made with a "wire guage" between the teeth in the area shown below , we use a "pick" to pull the pinion into the R/G and measurte in the "crotch" (he said crotch ) Often you can predict what you need by judging whats been milled from the starter hsg surface during the rebuild process (comparison) call or post up if you need help Weve all been thru this Tom

Lots of good info here , You have a wealth of "Veterans" that have solid mechanical and marine experience to help you  Thats one of the things thats so great about this Socal board . I'll try later to find the "guage" (which looks like a section of heavy coat hanger) but I belive it to be around .100 in Tom 

Thanks guys motor comes out today!

gurus! here are the pics from sat motor pull tell me something does this look like a marine version starter? and does it matter the starter was not aligned but im not sure that shims are gonna help let me know. also found a broken tooth on my flexplate gotta replace it

The pin is .120.........good eye Tom

Otherwise known as an 1/8" drillbit (.125")  I'm telling you I'm backwoods bro's...

GT

gurus! here are the pics from sat motor pull tell me something does this look like a marine version starter? and does it matter the starter was not aligned but im not sure that shims are gonna help let me know. also found a broken tooth on my flexplate gotta replace it

Does not look marine, the way to tell for sure is the "flash plate" between the armature and the starter drive (may have some pics somewhere, I will try to find and post em) is your engine covered? Normally that's the only time it matters, also look at the copper bands coming out of the motor stator where they connect to the back of the solenoid, if there are two metal (copper) straps, that indicates a "high torque" version of the old style starter (used on BBC, trucks and high compression ratio small blocks from the factory) not to be confused with the gear reduction high torque, some folks call them Corvette starters because they are very common in Big block Vettes.
When you put the starter back on the motor, either use brand new starter bolts (not the cheapo's from Kragen) from GM, or make sure yours are dead nuts straight and have some knurling left...If it knocked a tooth out it could have bent a bolt if they were left loose...Seen it a hundred times...

If the starter is a marine version, there is normally a dob of RTV between the solenoid and the starter motor where they meet the drive housing, not always, but normally (required to be approved).

Keep the rear brace too, they work.  

edit; after taking an expanded look at your starter, that is a high torque...

GT

You need to turn off those valve covers 

I've got some "Old School" gold anodized Moroso valve covers that would look killer on there....

GT

You need to turn off those valve covers 

I've got some "Old School" gold anodized Moroso valve covers that would look killer on there....

GT

Ya the last owner painted them bummer huh!

Yes that sound sweet I wouldnt mind nowing how to convert these myself. Ya use this thread and send me some pics THANKS

AWSOME!

The one thing I noticed was that the dizzy is at the wrong end