JC Split Bowl???

« **on:** July 06, 2008, 01:00:34 PM »

This has baffled me for a while now. How is a Berkeley JC bowl converted to a split bowl? Is it just cut off, until you get the right diameter for the adapters? I would think that this would look really funny. Are there any advantages to doing it, over buying a JG or JB bowl? Can I see some pictures of a converted bowl? And about how much does it cost to have it done, and who does it?

Thanks.

« **Reply #1 on:** July 06, 2008, 01:16:06 PM »

i have never done this, so for what its worth $:-\$
the c bowl flows better because the vanes are longer, they just cut and weld a flange on it.

« **Reply #2 on:** July 06, 2008, 01:21:11 PM »

I can take some measurements tomorrow if you want to know where to cut, and what size flange to get

And I bet alot of people haven't seen a factory JC Split bowl

I got one right now, going to test it this weekend, the inside diameter of the exit is MUCH small than the other split bowls, hopefully it'll flow better, create better pressure.... but won't know until I try it out

« **Reply #3 on:** July 06, 2008, 01:25:19 PM »

i wonder how much H.P you would need before you see a difference

« **Reply #4 on:** July 06, 2008, 01:27:30 PM »

Quote from: Ralph Brunt on July 06, 2008, 01:25:19 PM

i wonder how much H.P you would need before you see a difference

That's what I'm curious about. I have GPS speeds of this boat before work done, and am going to have some of after. Supposively this factory split bowl is supposed to be good for low horsepower boats, but who knows until I try a few bowl combinations. This motor is a Cheby and is around 400-425hp, and after pump testing it's on to more horsepower

« **Reply #5 on:** July 06, 2008, 01:30:00 PM »

I've never seen one welded before, I have seen them where they are cut and the end double drilled to use a "G" style nozzle, this thing flowed pretty well, the reason they did it is because they wanted to run a 1/2 snoot and already had thier "C" bowl Extrude honed and didn't want to spend the money again (would have had to buy the "G" bowl and had it honed).

BTW you can't tell it was modified...

Extrude honing the bowls makes them have a lot less pressure drop across the stator and increases overall performance, the only thing you need to do is cap off the inlet side of the vanes and finish those off by hand so they dont get distorted.

Extrude honing, BTW is a cool process that uses an abrasive putty (in varying grits) that is hydraulically pressed through the bowl, cleaning and smoothing in the process, we did about 10 of these 8 years ago, but have not heard of many people doing it lately.

Also IMO the "G's" don't flow any better than a "C" but they have nozzle adjustability...

« **Reply #6 on:** July 06, 2008, 05:45:08 PM »

Quote from: pw_Tony on July 06, 2008, 01:27:30 PM

That's what I'm curious about. I have GPS speeds of this boat before work done, and am going to have some of after. Supposively this factory split bowl is supposed to be good for low horsepower boats, but who knows until I try a few bowl combinations. This motor is a Cheby and is around 400-425hp, and after pump testing it's on to more horsepower

I'm glad I kept my C bowl then because that's about how much HP I have in my sled. I also have an AB impeller, so as it sits right now, I have a great pump for my setup. I also sprayed all the interior surfaces of the pump with speed coat, will this help the efficiency of the pump any?

If you don't mind, could you get those measurements off that bowl? I'm just curious about this. My JC bowl is really nice inside, and I was told it was sent off somewhere to be rebuilt and flowed, before I bought the boat, so it's a great bowl. So, I don't really want to buy a new JG bowl, when I go to sticking hardware on the back end of it.

Where did you get your JC split bowl?

Thanks.

« **Reply #7 on:** July 07, 2008, 09:03:44 PM »

Is that all you've got guys???

« **Reply #8 on:** October 17, 2008, 03:51:28 PM »

Back to the top.

Ok, I'm serious about this now. I've got an extra bowl laying around that I'm gonna convert. Was looking at it today and noticed that the nozzle area is badly worn. So I'm gonna hack it off and weld a flange on it. It will be much cheaper for me to do it this way cause I can make the ring for $0 and I can cut the bowl for $0 and I can weld it back together for $0........you get the picture. If I knew the measurements, I'd be cutting on it right now, that's how serious I am about this.

And I found a nozzle adapter for a G bowl on eBay and just placed a bid on it.

First, I need to know how far down to cut, measured from the big side. Then any other measurements I might need.

Thanks.

« **Reply #9 on:** October 17, 2008, 05:18:54 PM »

After looking at it tonight, I determined that I should probably cut it 9" up from the big end. That is exactly where the vanes stop.

Can someone please verify this for me. Also can I please get a pic looking down at the small end of a converted bowl?

Thanks.

« **Reply #10 on:** October 17, 2008, 05:43:02 PM »

I dont know what your time i worth but for right around the $300 range you can get a G bowl

-beerjet-

I've been really drunk since about 2 pm, so please take what I type with a grain of salt . K .

« **Reply #11 on:** October 17, 2008, 06:02:27 PM »

I have lots of time and no money.

Sounds like you're having a pretty good day then.

« **Reply #12 on:** October 17, 2008, 06:12:51 PM »

There are no such things as bad days here at the sunny facility of Team Cold Beer racing in wonderful 90 + degree socal

-beerjet-

« **Reply #13 on:** October 17, 2008, 06:51:09 PM »

I heard Jack at MPD will convert bowls in the off season, but I also heard its $$$$$$.

« **Reply #14 on:** October 17, 2008, 08:14:15 PM »

Quote from: koyota93 on October 17, 2008, 06:51:09 PM

I heard Jack at MPD will convert bowls in the off season, but I also heard its $$$$$$.

Last I heard on this subject was that he wasn't doing them anymore, but I don't know, I've never talked to him.

Also, as I posted earlier, I have lots of time and no money.

« **Reply #15 on:** October 18, 2008, 09:15:06 AM »

I guess what you really need is the dimensions off the G-bowl and duplicate that to keep it all interchangable .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #16 on:** October 18, 2008, 09:31:57 AM »

Quote from: beerjet on October 18, 2008, 09:15:06 AM

I guess what you really need is the dimensions off the G-bowl and duplicate that to keep it all interchangable .

-beerjet-

That or the dimensions off a converted JC bowl.

« **Reply #17 on:** October 18, 2008, 09:42:29 AM »

I'll get you dims. off my G.

-beerjet-

« **Reply #18 on:** October 18, 2008, 10:50:13 AM »

Quote from: beerjet on October 18, 2008, 09:42:29 AM

I'll get you dims. off my G.

-beerjet-

Ok, cool. Thanks.

« **Reply #19 on:** October 18, 2008, 11:11:08 AM »

Just call Jack at MPD ( 949-631-2040-after 10am Pacific time.) I'm sure he would help you out with dimensions and details.

« **Reply #20 on:** October 18, 2008, 05:05:49 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on October 18, 2008, 11:11:08 AM

Just call Jack at MPD ( 949-631-2040-after 10am Pacific time.) I'm sure he would help you out with dimensions and details.

I didn't think that he would want to help, since he's kinda the only one doing it. But, I might give him a call if I get stuck. But it looks pretty straight forward, and I think I can do it. I just need to get a nozzle adapter thing so I can do the ring and the bolt pattern and all that good stuff. So if anybody has an extra one that they don't want, I'll take it off your hands.

Thanks.

« **Reply #21 on:** October 18, 2008, 05:57:04 PM »

Last I heard, he was no longer doing the conversion since it wasn't really cost effective. Call him BEFORE you start, so you can avoid making any critical mistakes.

« **Reply #22 on:** October 19, 2008, 05:10:31 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on October 18, 2008, 05:57:04 PM

Last I heard, he was no longer doing the conversion since it wasn't really cost effective. Call him BEFORE you start, so you can avoid making any critical mistakes.

Ok, I'll give him a call tomorrow and see what he has to say about it. It shouldn't be too expensive for me, my time is free and I should be able to get the material for the ring for free, if we have a piece that will work on the shelf.

« **Reply #23 on:** October 20, 2008, 02:28:30 PM »

I've been told that the longer vanes in the C bowl flow better and that a properly done conversion will outflow a G or B bowl. My buddies 18' CP has it done and I have no idea if it actually works better. I talked with Jack about it a while back and the jist I got was that it was not an efficient use of money for the gains that would be seen. It's not cheap to do and I got the feeling that he wasn't real interested in taking on the project.

If anybody wants to try, I've got two C bowls that have been flowed that would make good starting points. Jason

« **Reply #24 on:** October 20, 2008, 03:09:43 PM »

Quote from: River Dad on October 20, 2008, 02:28:30 PM

I talked with Jack about it a while back and the jist I got was that it was not an efficient use of money for the gains that would be seen.

thats just it....theres MANY other things you can spend your money on and get some more speed out of your boat.....the c bowl conversion is ideal for the guy chasin 10ths of a second to shave off his ET.

best bang for your buck = loader (with or without bearings)

realHawaiianJet

Ralph Brunt

pw_Tony

Ralph Brunt

pw_Tony

GT Jets

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koyota93

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Oldsquirt

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