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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 09, 2018, 07:35:36 PM »
I had a motor similar to this with a 400 2 stage fogger pulling around 1100 in a 76 cutlass full chassised that ran high 9's but because of my naievity broke often.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 09, 2018, 04:00:09 PM »
The headers are from Hi-Tech out of Australia, only people that make custom Olds wet manifolds. 2-1/4" primaries into 4" collector. Damn things were ungodly expensive. The cost was around 2300.00.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 09, 2018, 03:57:44 PM »
Deck plate bored & honed, 1-4 new billet steel mains studded(align honed), Eagle 6.735" H beam rods, Diamond pistons 1.1cc relief, heads studded modified port matched Pro comps, Victor Dominator port matched with heads (both opened up). All bearing clearances have been blue printed (both mains & rods opened and equal clearances on all), screw oil restrictors, Melling HV blueprinted pump
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 09, 2018, 03:47:55 PM »
Build pics
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 09, 2018, 03:41:12 PM »
All numbers above 600 I'm calling theoretical due to Desktop dyno. With that being said, we'll see. In talks with Dick & Andy Miller (personally), dealing with people atMondello (won't do that again), and many conversations with Bill Travato, I've been assured higher numbers. We'll see. I can always throw giggle gas at it.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 09, 2018, 11:00:39 AM »
It's only. 010 over. Cam is 241I/249E @.050". .600" lift. On 110 lobe sep. 11.93:1 effective compression.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 09, 2018, 04:33:03 AM »
ProComp. I bought bare and built them. The motor is projected to be in the 670hp/700lbft area. I'm doing an all day at the shop.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Leviathans heart beats! Ready to dyno now
« on: March 07, 2018, 07:56:34 AM »
Well, it lights, now to haul it off to dyno, hopefully within 2 weeks.
I hope this YouTube link works.
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I hope this YouTube link works.
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The No Wake Zone / Re: What are you drinking today?
« on: February 21, 2017, 07:00:56 PM »
Gin & tonic........but I only threaten it with tonic. Yes a true sailor 🚤
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36
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathan's mill is almost ready.....
« on: January 28, 2017, 07:06:21 AM »
Gonna try after a light break in. I had her bark to life on a little squirt of brake cleaner. 11.93:1 comp through those headers tickled me pink and brought my neighbor over.
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37
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathan's mill is almost ready.....
« on: January 27, 2017, 11:06:06 AM »
And a few more pics, with the headers and water lines on.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb spacer
« on: December 10, 2016, 10:34:46 AM »
I also don't like putting a bunch of adapters for square bore on top of a spread bore intake.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb spacer
« on: December 10, 2016, 10:32:22 AM »
Or, in lieu of stacking spacers up, trying using an Edelbroch Victor intake. Your air charge velocity and throttle response might crisp up a bit.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathan's mill is almost ready.....
« on: September 19, 2016, 02:51:20 AM »
'75 Glastron Carlson CV21, Berk JE. That has an SS loader, inducer, and AA mag/bronze impeller.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Leviathan's mill is almost ready.....
« on: September 18, 2016, 05:59:29 PM »
These are fully jacketed, 2-1/4 primaries to 4 collector. Polished with zinc anodes. 3100.00. Yes f&%@!^&( ouch. But I'll keep it all under the hood.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Leviathan's mill is almost ready.....
« on: September 18, 2016, 03:45:58 PM »
Well, after spinal issues, and full rotator cuff reattatchment surgery, and a slow as shop....the mill is almost ready for the dyno. Projected HP @ 570, Tq @ 600. BBO @ 458 cid, billet mains, studded, 5 cap halo, Eagle H-beam rods, Diamond 11.93:1 flat tops, gear to gear timing, roller hydraulic, 307/.603, Procomp heads with Farrea SS valves 2.07I/1.71E, Victor intake, 1050 Dominator. Mallory CD ignited. My water jacketed headers are currently in build. Hi Tech Exhaust out of Australia anticipates 3 weeks or so on completion and shipment.
Whud'ya think?
Whud'ya think?
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds 455 oil pressure issue?
« on: July 26, 2016, 11:54:21 AM »
Consistent bearing clearances are key. High main bearing speeds on BBO's. I run cam bearing restrictions, verified bearing clearances ( .0005" additional, so around. 0029-.0031") and HV oil pump, and 12qt pan.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 460 running on the hose
« on: July 20, 2016, 11:05:57 AM »
Another thing to remember is that household water pressure is in the 60psi range, NO engines cooling system seals at that. Automotive engines run at 15 to 18 psi range, higher and you could possibly risk water where you don't want it.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: HELP! 455 olds sputters around 4k rpm
« on: July 19, 2016, 11:06:52 AM »
It sounds more like timing. Your points and mechanical advance might be hanging up. BBO's like about 30* on the average total advance.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: HELP! 455 olds sputters around 4k rpm
« on: July 18, 2016, 11:29:53 AM »
I gotta hand it to GT, he called on the variables of the equation as I would.
Answer most of those questions and we have a picture.
Answer most of those questions and we have a picture.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine Set-up & Running help! (Newbie)
« on: July 15, 2016, 10:58:48 AM »
I've got a Holley 800 spread bore double pumper I'll sell you.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Drive shaft
« on: July 08, 2016, 03:21:58 AM »
Buy the u-joints. But when you're setting the engine in, before you drill holes in the stringers, use an inclinometer to ensure you have at least 1/2 to one degree of working angle and that both joints are within 1 degree of each other.
Nothing would suck worse than do all this hard work, just to ride the water version of the Home Depot paint shaker.
Nothing would suck worse than do all this hard work, just to ride the water version of the Home Depot paint shaker.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Drive shaft
« on: July 07, 2016, 10:55:53 AM »
If you're switching to a rail setup from 3 or 4 point, and you're replacing the u joints or whole double cardan joint, make sure before you set the system in stone that you measure and set the driveline angles. You'll prevent a major common vibration issue.
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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Old folk's .....er' Olds folks
« on: January 03, 2016, 11:44:15 AM »
Thanks, and good luck on your build. I'm down & out for awhile post surgery. I can only look at mine just sitting there.
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