Looking good Steve. Looks like your feeling better lol


Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR

No actually LOL..
And im pretty damn sure huffin all that resin last night did wonders on my throat. its killing me today. But i was motivated haha

Looks that way lol, hope you get well soon


Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR

Finished the carpet up last night and turned to tackling the wiring before the interior goes in. Im not a fan of the wiring thats in the boat. Its old, spliced, cut, and just in general bad shape. So im going to re-wire this thing.

Til i get the wiring from ebay. I started mounting the MSD and the fuel pump



It will be bolted to the transom, jut the fuel pump outweighs the MSD box so it kept falling forward. Also the bolts will be shortened and the pump rubber mounted

Try some 7-way trailer cord. It's all jacketed like an extension cord. Used that on the Hondo I had, came out clean.

Thats not a bad idea, but i need more than 7 wires :-(

just for signal wires
tach
volt
oil pressure
oil temp
water temp
water pressure (just because i have to many holes in the dash)
fuel pressure
MSD Power wire
12 volt power
12 volt ground
bilge wires

and im sure im missing some

Thats not a bad idea, but i need more than 7 wires :-(


and im sure im missing some

starter?

Any of the pressure gauges mechanical?
water press?
fuel press?
oil press?

Is MSD going to be on a relay?

I used the 7 wire trailer cord and worked good. (Napa)
I believe 9 wire cord is available, too.

Dan'l

The MSD won't need a relay. It uses a signal wire to turn on and off and the power it uses comes directly from the battery on the two 12ga Black and Red wires.

If you want to be legit you gotta do some concentric twisting of the wires.

Thats what i thought.

Planned on twisting my wires

What tape is that?

Kapton tape. It keeps adhesive shrink from grabbing the wires and some guys use it hold harnesses together while they are building them.

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

I just noticed you appear to have a machined/fabricated valley pan. Did that motor come with an LS7 style valley cover with a built in PCV?

Ahh. I didn't realize your engine had displacement on demand.

I need a valley pan with the PCV built in so I can use pretty valve covers. I am going to build a bracket to mount the coils to the factory engine mount area to keep them hidden a little and keep them away from exhaust heat. I will need the knock sensors...

All this talk of valley covers reminded me... We had a G8 motor come in the other day and I noticed the LS3 valley plate has provisions to block off Active Displacement, has an oil pressure fitting and has a breather tube with baffles.  Here's a link with a pic...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12599296?seid=srese1&gclid=CLr9ifSws8UCFROVfgod85AAfg

Just make sure you put all 8 o-rings in the cover, or better yet tap the AD oil feeds and install pipe plugs.  Customer had low oil pressure with oil consumption and smoking on hard acceleration.  Sounds like a whipped motor but was actually missing a few of those o-rings.  Oil was squirting into the PCV and filling the intake!  Replaced those o-rings, cleaned the intake and whadayaknow... oil pressure shot up and smoking stopped.

got a lot done this weekend. And i still spent all mothers day not working on the boat     
"When momma aint happy aint nobody happy"

Friday the rest of the parts came in to get the jet together. So i went home and started on it. First part was scrubbing it down with degreaser and getting it as clean as possible. That was annoying to say the least. I think the rear bearing seal was bad on my pump because grease was everywhere.

After it was cleaned i went ahead and installed the wear ring i got from HTP Performance. I went with an Ultimate Wear Ring. I know some people frown upon it but in my case it seemed the best or easiest option. Easy to install and since the plan is to have a pump built next year i figured i would give this a shot. And some people love them some dont (imo its like a ford vs chevy thing)

It went in easily needed a little persuasion but other than that it fit nicely. Once in (and after talking to Duayne at HTP) i set it up with about .025 front clearance and it had about .020 overall side clearance



I will say, i did enjoy building the pump and it wasnt to bad to do at all

First coat of primer


I couldnt stand the way the impeller looked, so i sprayed it with some ceramic flat black paint




After about 4 coats of Gloss black Epoxy paint and about 4 coats of clear it looks pretty nice if i say so my self





Got the pump set in the boat. I used a gasket on the suction housing to intake, and silicone on the transom adapter. New Stainless bolts/nuts and washers.

Sat down and made the rest of the plate for the electronics on the right side of the transom (MSD Box, fuel pump, Fuel pump relay, battery cut off switch)



In case you were wondering, it is all drilled and tapped for the screws holding everything on.

I installed the Rail Kit Rails, the bilge pump (need to get hose then it will be done), Made the fuel lines from the tank to a seperator (will be mounted on the transom above the jet under the gunnel, Polished the aluminum trim pieces that were on the side of the boat. Might make another one for the rear of the boat, Re-Installed the fuel fills, things are starting to come together! Seat brackets were installed and seats put in.







Yes, i know the seats are filthy. Ill  clean them shortly



One thing im asking for opinons on is whether or not i should paint the bottom half of the gas tanks black like originally planned. Heres a picture of how they currently look.