Whats your plan on the head steam tubes? I found some nice adapters on eBay, and after examining the factory cooling system it looks like just plumbing them to exit somewhere on the transom is all that is needed.

Philo, for the steam vents I ordered some 1/8 npt adapters from a company called wegman or something like that, I'll get a link later today.

I'm going to make a simple distribution block out of a 1x1 chunk of aluminum. Then dump them over board.

But I've been really thinking about this and have decided to dump them into the collectors of the headers.

Since my headers will be dry, this will make them look like they are injected and hopefully keep the cops off my back.

The adapters I bought were like 27 for the set of 4

Thanks Dave,
I'm gonna paint them.

Idk what the polished plates were for originally. Maybe heat shields that's a good guess.

I only put them back on because where they were, the Paint Is rubbed off. And of course I had to polish them

yes they were heat shields got it with them on it.


"RTCP"

Philofab heres the link to the steam vents i bought. Yes their website seems a little janky but it worked for me i had them in 1 day and they are nice pieces

http://s41657.storefront-solutions.com/detail.aspx?ID=3289

I'd agree with that too... IIRC on a 4th Gen they plumb back into the radiator?  Been a while since I sold mine  

I do recall that some cars have all 4 steam holes tied together with a skinny "H" looking pipe that sits under the intake (the very early cars IIRC), while others block off the rears and only use the front steam holes.  I don't think my FAST intake cleared the "H" line running under it so I had to change over to the later style stem tubes when I ran it.

Chad,

you are correct. The early engines had the "H" pipe and these are very hard to find and almost non existant. And yes the OEM application plumbed it back into the radiator or coolant recovery bottle

There are a few schools of thought in regards to the steam lines

1. Block all 4 off, in a jet application the water is moving through the block so fast it doesnt matter (not a fan of this)
2. Block off rears and dump 2 over board or into the cooling system somehow
3. Run all 4 overboard.

there are some people that say they don't matter, some say only 2 etc.

There are some reports of the rear cylinder temps being higher than the rest of the engine and this causing the top ring land to crack or break off. Obviously if that happens its catastrophic.

Me, Personally... Im just going the safe route and dumping all 4. Still trying to decide if i want to do a bulkhead and dump them through the transom. Or adding to the collectors like i said earlier. Im leaning towards the collectors since im running dry headers. Might fake the cops out.`

Another idea that i just thought of is to buy a set of these
http://www.ictbillet.com/lsx-remote-mount-water-pump-adapter-plate-3-4-npt-chevy-ls1-ls-camaro-536.html

Drill and tap the side of it for a 1/8npt fitting and just recycle the water back in the cooling system.

OR even

buy an AN fitting that will fit into the overboard engine block lines and tee it into there...

Or more simply dump the shit straight overboard lol

Ill get pictures unfder the dash later on, but when i took this picture the 12v hot and Grounds has already been run to the dash with a fuse block and a ground distribution strip up under the dash. Also the Ignition is wired and there is a Key on hot wire running to the back of the boat, where another distribution point will be.



I may not be doing the "Marine" color coding. But trying to make it make as much sense as possible. Also trying my best to tuck the wiring and hide it. Wiring is one of my pet peeves i hate sloppy wiring.

Killer build all the way around. Good job, man!


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

Killer build all the way around. Good job, man!


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

Thank you sir, its been a lot of fun so far

I'd probably run the spacer. Adding those usually moves the power up in RPM range which you will probably need. I doubt that engine will see much use under 3K.

Well yesterday was just full of bad news... some work shit came up. Figured i would go home and work on the boat, that should relax ya right?!? WRONG!!! Should have just sat in it and made vroom vroom noises and drank beer haha.

My new temp gauge came in so i figured i would try to get it installed. Going with Autometer Ultra Lite gauges in this thing (closest match to the autometer tach in the boat). I'll eventually get all the autometer ultra lite series. But for now just the oil psi, water temp. And ill buy as i go. A full set of gauges are not in the budget.

Open up the temp gauge and theres a piece of styrofoam stuck under the glass....




Right by the R in WATER and in the corner of my eye in the boat. So i emailed the seller (bought it brand new from ebay) and they are sending me a brand new one out today!     

So that was the first bad thing to happen lol.

Next i moved onto the fuel system. Most, not all but most of the fittings i needed showed up yesterday. So i opened everything and laid out how the lines will be ran and realized that i do have all of the fittings i need. My plan is -8an from the tanks to the seperator. -8an from the seperator to the pump, -8an from the pump to the regulator, then -6an to the carb.

Well when i was drawing the system up and deciding what fittings i needed i could have sworn i had enough -8 line to do the lines from the separator to the pump, then the pump to the regulator. Yeah..... nope apparently i only have -6 line and thought i had some -8 laying around. But no, its all -6 or the -8 grew legs... Ill go to G&J and pick up some -8 line and -6 fittings.

So no biggie, ill make the regulator to the carb. thats easy enough i have the all the fittings for that and the line.

nope... the damn fittings are -6an fitting for a -4 an hose... Totally my fault i bought them from summit, and just plain wasnt paying attention.     

then i moved onto the water system. Since my budget on the build dried up a long AN Hose and Fittings for the cooling system are out the window lol. Lucky for me, my dad gets the Goodyear Silicone heater hose from his work. The blue hoses that are used on police cars and ambulances. Really nice stuff.
This stuff:


But the blue does not go with the boat at all and will annoy me to the end. So i had an idea, when i ordered my wiring sleeving from mcmaster-carr i went ahead and ordered some for the silicone heater hose. I really like the way it looks, should protect it and the hose should last a very long time. I put the sleeving over the hose and heat shrunk the ends.

Heres a close up of the line coming off the pump.


No i do not plan on running that valve in the boat. That was just there to help with testing the lines. And i didnt want to misplace it

But im running two dumps (the ones that were on the boat already) and the headers will be dry for the most part. At least for right now. Ill make water lines later on







going to tie these down to the mounts on the intake. But once i run the steam lines i wont have room underneath the intake to run the hoses. So they will look something like this

Dammit I've had those days, sometimes it better to just sit and relax, I know your not rushing but sometimes it's better to just look at it and work on it another day. Focus on one thing at a time. Your doing a bitchin job. Keep up all the good work!! 👍👍


"RTCP"

Maybe run those hoses under the engine?

Maybe run those hoses under the engine?

The more i look at the picture i dont see why it wont work that way. Except maybe needing longer hoses...

But i know i tried it i just dont remember exactly why it wouldnt work ill try it again