Definitely flux core, which would work, but the key us penetration. I don't see any blueing of the steel around the welds anywhere, again not enough heat. With the added leverage of that extension it needs stronger welds.

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BYJust a quick story.

About 1997-98 I had a customer call me to ask if I could weld a crack in a trailer. At the time I had a structural welding certification (that has not been updated in years).

I told him I could take a look and asked him to bring it by for an estimate. After looking at the trailer, I told him it looked to me like it had been repaired a couple of times in the past. He said he had been having the issue for a couple of years.

After providing him with an estimate for replacing some fatigued steel, adding some structural strength to the front frame rail connectors and reinforcing the tongue tube, he thought it was way to much money (his words). And was on his way, I had informed him he may want to pursue getting a replacement trailer a soon a possible and not to tow the broken one very far or fast.

He took it to another shop and they told him the trailer needed to be replaced. He ultimately ended up having a local shop simply weld up the crack.

That same month, the trailer frame broke at the cross member that tied the tongue tube into the rails and the rails dug into the highway at speed and literally destroyed the trailer, the boat and his Toyota 4 Runner.

No one was hurt, but think about a busy highway. This could have, maybe even should have been catastrophic.

The only reason I knew about the accident was the California Highway Patrol paid me a visit because of an estimate in the wrecked boats glove box. There were no charges filed to anyone, but thinking that if someone was injured or worse, there would have been criminal charges filed.

Take my advice on this and 86 that trailer and find the proper one. That rig is going to be over the 3500 pound mark and should have two 2000 pound axles and brakes.

I would hate to see all your hard work ruined, but even worse, see someone hurt.

I can find you a proper trailer in a day or two that won't break the bank.

I really did try to bite my tongue on this. The more I thought about it, the more it bothered me when other members began to speak out,I thought it would be irresponsible to not speak out.

This project is awesome, but this little shortcut scares me.

Please take this as constructive.

GT

Edit; if memory serves the estimate was less than $500....

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im all for advice.  however i DID look around for trailers for about the 6 months that ive had this project in motion, and most importantly a trailer that can fit into my garage.  this boat will NOT be sitting outside. 

what i found in the 21 range is a bunch of shitty trailers or outrageously expensive trailers like "extreme."  (hell its hard driving thru havasu springs and seeing a bunch of nice trailers just sitting there for months, haha) my competitive is built 500x nicer than most and the steel is thicker than most of the ones that I came across.  For example I looked into this one below but it doesnt fit into my garage id have to chop the whole front of it off... and then I would be in the situation i am now. A possible weak point where it gets put back together.



I can always add brakes to the one i have, and swap the leafs and/or axles.  That stuff is not a big deal.  I can have the welds redone no problem.  Anyone want some money and have a porta welder?  Hell I need the bunks moved as well.

Where are you located. If you had 220v and are in social we can make it happen.

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no 220 in my garage. 

txt me i know a good shop in hunington beach that will do it for you 714-501-0555

KaOtyk
Your in my neck of the woods. I have plate for some gussets maybe a bevel here and there lol  I will take care of your welding if you need it. bro just get the cold ones I got everything else.


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 are you thinkin you shoulda added some yellows,

 to tie it all together ??

 agreed... love my pure white but,

 some contrast makes it POP!   

Looks like a very low pitch prop.

i gotta find out what prop to run.  a stainless prop will be in my future soon, just gotta find out which one to run and pitch/size.  sooo many choices.

Clean and simple, looks good.

I think a 21 pitch would be a good low starting point.

Try calling "gotta have it prop shop" in Moreno Valley. Dudes been in business for over 10 years and sells/refurbished props. My old man picked up a ss 4 blade prop for 150 bucks last year


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yeh i need to call some shop that knows more than i do or "i run this on my boat so you should too"... having the alpha 1.62 with a big block and a prop thats too aggressive will probably hurt the drive.  so i need something small with less bite. 

You are going to need at least a 23" pitch prop..... rpm does way more damage than torque on an alpha. You really need 1.50:1 gears.

I have some props if you want to experiment.

GT

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ive been told by everyone that torque will break my drive.  ill be whipping up a shower for it to help with cooling.  id love to swap to 1.50 gears, i couldnt find an upper with those gears when i was putting things together.  how much of a different will .12 make in rpm?  2-300? i already know i wont be blowing doors off and that i will need to baby it.