Fixing the hole

« **Reply #50 on:** May 31, 2009, 10:17:31 AM »

Looks awesome Chaz. Did you already say brand of the paint?

p-jet

« **Reply #51 on:** May 31, 2009, 10:37:30 AM »

Chaz,

You are turning off the water heater before you spray paint in there aren't you?

That pilot is always on and there is a pretty good potential there for an "event".

Looks killer!

GT

« **Reply #52 on:** May 31, 2009, 03:53:09 PM »

15-20 mins on bottom of boat between coats, less on the pump parts. Yes the heater and water heater get the gas shut off before I spray, don't want any blow outs. The paint is Restoration Shop AU for the bottom of the boat. Covers a bit thin but I like the color and the price.

« **Reply #53 on:** June 16, 2009, 09:17:05 PM »

Well I have been busy

Took me a while to get it "good enough". I could not let all my hard work on the cap job go to waste, and I ground it all out to a wider area and filled it back with more mat. The deck was very bad and had previous repairs I tried to help correct. I decided I did not want to inveest the time it would have taken to make it perfect(summers wasting away) I swear I am going to burn all my sandpaper after this project is done

SO this is the before picture. Tomorrow I will shoot 3 coats of 2K primer, then guide coat and block it, followed by 2 more coats of primer and 400-600 wet sand.

« **Reply #54 on:** June 18, 2009, 10:28:36 PM »

In case anyone is still following this "hole fix"

Just about everything that could go wrong, DID yesterday when I shot the primer. My respirator took a dump about 3/4 of the way through. My gun plugged up and I was spraying about a 2" line with all dial at full open( then I figured out what was up maybe an hour later) I got the final coat on nice, but sanding the orange peel off after the guide coat is taking me a bit longer than I hoped. Have I mentioned how much I hate sanding now?

Looks like a few pinholes and less than expected low spots on the deck to bring up a little and I'll be ready for the next round of primer.

« **Reply #55 on:** June 18, 2009, 11:18:14 PM »

What kind of primer did you use?

« **Reply #56 on:** June 19, 2009, 12:20:49 AM »

if you keep getting a lot of orange peel thin it out a little more and never go back over the lite spots put another coat on if possible.just my $.02 good luck

« **Reply #57 on:** June 20, 2009, 12:09:57 AM »

The primer is Kustom Shop 2K ISO Free Hi-Build. The Orange peel came from the clogged gun filter not letting enough primer out. Hence sprayed very dry and got the orange peel. I use a 1.8 tip in my primer gun, the coats on the bottom went on beautifully. The real problem was that I grabbed the wrong cup. I grabbed a partially cleaned one that was used for the single stage. All that film melted off and stuck in the gun filter. Since I am a newb at this painting stuff it took me a bit to figure it out. Changed the filter, cleaned the tip again, and switched to clean primer cup

The primer is now blocked and all the low spots and pinholes are filled. Tomorrow I will sand the filler off and shoot the last coats of primer. I am hoping to finish Sunday so the clear has time to harden before 4th of July weekend

« **Reply #58 on:** June 25, 2009, 11:59:02 PM »

Shot the base coat tonight. I will be doing the clear tomorrow morning in about 7 hrs. Tech sheet says I have 24hrs to apply clear so that should give it plenty of time to flash off all the solvent. I got a couple runs

but I think I will just live with them and chalk it up to my 1st time painting

Pics are with quite a bit of paint still in the air

before

after

« **Reply #59 on:** June 26, 2009, 09:28:25 AM »

very nice work, and well documented, you def went balls on this "hole fix", keep up the good work and keep the pics coming

« **Reply #60 on:** June 26, 2009, 11:54:54 AM »

Well, I have a lot of runs to fix on the sides and back

and some mild orange peel to colorsand, but overall I am satisfied with my 1st paint job. If the runs come out I will upgrade to happy.

« **Reply #61 on:** June 26, 2009, 07:37:48 PM »

looking good chaz keep it up

« **Reply #62 on:** June 27, 2009, 01:58:04 PM »

Hey Chaz, Looks pretty darn good for the first time around. What color is the base coat?

« **Reply #63 on:** June 27, 2009, 02:00:43 PM »

Looks really nice! You made a lot of headway in a very short period of time

Curious to see how she runs when back together

GT

« **Reply #64 on:** June 27, 2009, 02:22:35 PM »

Thank You! I put in a LOT of hours after work every day and weekends to get it here. I hope the clear is hard enough to take it out next Saturday.
Base coat is Restoration Shop from TCP Global. It is a bit thin but the metalic laid out easily. I got complete coverage on gray primer in 2 coats and put on one more just for safety. The color is called firemist red, it looks excellent in the sun, the picture does not do it justice. I used single stage of the same color for the bottom. It is a little harder to keep the metalic laid out correctly, it will "sag" or run the metallic if you apply the coat too thick. The clear is Kustom Shop 2k Super Flow Polyurethane Clear. It seems a little thin also at 40% solids by volume and did run on me even after a light tack coat was applied 1st. That could have been and probably was user error though. My lighting was insufficient when the fog got thick towards the end.

« **Reply #65 on:** June 28, 2009, 07:07:55 AM »

Firemist Red was a Caddy color. They had several Firemist colors and all looked like a great metal flake paint job. I shop TCP all the time. Great prices and service. Yeah, photos never really do colors justice. Looks great!

« **Reply #66 on:** June 28, 2009, 07:19:29 AM »

thats it chaz....... im sending my shit up for a paint job

looks great man

« **Reply #67 on:** June 30, 2009, 11:54:31 PM »

Been trying to get this thing rigged for this weekend...

I am almost there, still need to finish the water lines, attach the carbs and fuel linkage, recheck all the bolts for correct torque, attach the wires to the lights and a few more misc odds and ends and it will be ready.

Only "hold up" was the U-Joint to the pump now seems to be too tight. I had what I considered a loose set up before as I could disconnect the 4 bolts from the PTO and slide the U-Joint towards the pump far enough to start the engine. I

It was difficult to slide it into place this time it is so tight. I am hoping that there is simply paint or maybe too much grease at the jet end that is keeping it from sliding back further, unless dimensions from1 JC pump to another can be that different

Looks like it will have to go to the lake to get it's first fire up instead of on the hose

« **Reply #68 on:** July 01, 2009, 08:06:18 AM »

Sometimes the splined yokes get a wear pattern in them from the shaft, make sure everything is nice and clean and check for a ridge, typically you want 1/4" to 3/8" of clearance from the end of the shaft to the end of the yoke to allow things to move around under different thrust conditions.

I normally use Mercruisers spline lube on the yokes, it pretty thick lithium based grease that isn't supossed to cake up, make sure not to mix different types of grease or it can emulsify and cause some problems with sticking...

Carburetor cleaner with the straw cleans out the shaft cavity pretty good and the new low VOC stuff does not seem to soften the seal....

GT

« **Reply #69 on:** July 02, 2009, 01:50:36 PM »

Ready to go to the lake

« **Reply #70 on:** July 02, 2009, 02:28:14 PM »

Looks good Chaz

- yer scoop's on backwards though

« **Reply #71 on:** July 02, 2009, 02:59:33 PM »

I know, I was forced to turn it around last year at El Capitan. Cop said if I didn't have flame arrestors it HAD to face the back. I don't beleive that is the law in CA, but it was easier to change it than go through the hassle of expaining the laws to the police... I will try and get it back looking "cool"

if I have time before I leave. It isn't exactly easy as the peices that lift it above the carbs are different heights. This makes the scoop look level and they are pop riveted in place.

« **Reply #72 on:** July 02, 2009, 03:20:47 PM »

The cop was right.

« **Reply #73 on:** July 02, 2009, 06:10:47 PM »

The way I read the law was in Cali if engine compartment is open and carbs are above gunwales no flame arrester needed. In Nevada and Arizona you need flame arrester OR a device that channels backfire out of boat away from passengers. I got fucd with about the scoop thing, didnt bother to try and tell the cop I have a pop off valve out back.

« **Reply #74 on:** July 02, 2009, 06:39:33 PM »

Looks great Chaz, nice work

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