The heads, as well as everything on this motor were redone by machine shop. New valves/seals, ported polished etc.  The crazy part is I dont think this is the cylinder that is causing the noise  It was working properly before I put the new nuts and ran it maybe 20 mins under 3000 RPMS as if it were adjustable.  I got the noise the same as before so I decided to put them back to 20lbs torque as reccomended by Paul @ high flow dynamics.  ran fine under 3000 RPM'sS.  Retarded the timing Way back and got the ticking to stop.  It just wouldn't start that far retarded, let alone the HP loss.

If I buy those rockers, I need new studs too right?  Also I think I read somewhere that stock valve covers wouldnt work for roller rockers, but I could be wrong there.

All the rods are the same length, I checked that.  Stock 1969 length, not sure what that is exactly, but in 1970 the get a touch longer.

All the rods are the same length, I checked that.  Stock 1969 length, not sure what that is exactly, but in 1970 the get a touch longer.

You will pretzlize a push rod if it is .060 too long !

Stop !

The first thing you need to do is find out why this is happening.

Just call me !

Mother F'er it looks like the new rod is a tiny bit longer than the orig.  They still sold me the wrong one.  Guess I call NAPA again, they got the correct size last time.  Thanks for the fix offer, too bad it's 360 miles over there  and my tow rig was diagnosed with a bent frame today.  I will try again and see if I can get the correct size. maybe that will keep it from bending. Only $1 to try I guess.

even if u buy adj rockers they still wont work with out cutting down the stud bosses to keep the gyo right.or your wasting your time

Read this, check your PMs, I called Scott and told him what was going on hopefully he can get you pointed in the right direction.

WOW, quite a thread ya' got going. They are adjustable, they are not adjustable, bent pushrods, geez.

Slow the flock down. The rocker arms are not of the adjustable type, however... you do have an adjustable valevetrain. That nut that holds the rocker on - that's where you adjust it at.

Rocker arm adjustment: back off rocker arm nut several turns, wait a couple minutes (skip if you have new lifters), as you spin the pushrod with your fingers tighten the nut until you feel a slight resistance on the pushrod. Turn nut 1/2 to one full turn clockwise (tighten). You are done adjusting your valve.

As for the pushrod bending you only have a couple of choices as to why it's happening. One the valve is hitting the piston. Two the rocker arm is binding. Since I am not a Ford guy I don't know if it's common to use different length pushrods (which would make it bind if the pushrod is at the wrong length, in a Chevy it is not common. I would think you could hear a piston hitting a valve, but I doubt you would here a pushrod binding. Another way to get a bent pushrod is if it's hitting the guide plate in it's travel. Do a visual check.

I still think the cam is off (teeth) or the firing order/distributor placement is off, the problem sounds like firing order problems, but then again you're getting bent pushrods.  

sweeeet.   

Arrgh... The life of owning a jet boat...  I got stranded today.  Something shorted again..  I guess, I melted my fingers touching the Pos on my batt and a wire came unsoldered it was so hot.  Seemed to get plenty of gas, got an  infrequent fire, and let it sit.  Later got it to start and run for about 5 sec. Brought it home and it fired right up but I was getting back fires out of the carb.  Adjusted the dist to a bit more advance and ran better, but seemed to want to do the same thing. Flames in the carb after a high rev and shut off.  Could the valve train problem I was having before be causing this?  It ran perfect the last 2 times out and 1/2 of today then all of a sudden a couple backfires and here I sit bitch'in.  At the lake I thought it was an ignition problem, not getting any, but as soon as I tried at home it ran.  Any Ideas

Yeah, I carry an extinguisher and I had no idea the battery terminal was going to be hot until I touched it.

now i'm no electrition but i would think that you have a verry high current draw some place. i dont think it should be that hot.

I am and you're right, it shouldn't be - EVER. Something on that boat is shorted. Slightly warm = normal, hot and burning your fingers = bad.

If you want to figure it out yourself you'll need a meter with current draw capabilities. When you first hook up the meter it will show a large draw, disconnect electrical parts until the draw goes away, once the draw is gone hook up everything you disconnected except the last part you disconnected, make sure the draw is still gone (watch the meter as you hook the parts back up), you will end up (hopefully) with one part that is either mis-wired or is bad in need of replacement. This is a lot easier in cars, they have fuses on everything and thereby blow a fuse when something is wrong.