they have DC Waterproof Fuse Panel

hey hot rod, why isnt there a fusebox on boats hmmmmmmm or can it be done??

The older jets have a circuit breaker that is mounted on the plate that holds the terminal strip for all of the engine's wiring on the back of the engine. Those circuit breakers are ? 20+ years old and most have been broken off and "by-passed" along the way through the years.

The standard 20 + year old jet boat has very little to it (stock!) and they could get away with one circuit breaker on the entire boat. They had gauges and maybe a bow and stern light - maybe. No stereo's, electric fuel pumps, etc... When they were new they didn't need fuses. Actually they still don't need fuses, the one circuit breaker is fine as long as the boat remains electrically stock.

A complete guess, "The Chaz's" boat has had it's circuit breaker removed, by-passed, or just doesn't work anymore.

The newer boats run waterproof fuse panel's, they have to. They have a lot of electrical on them.

Any boat can be retro fitted with anything electrically speaking. A friend of mine and I went to Parker one year and I installed (for the trip) a MTX 12 and a 600W MTX amp on his 14' fishing boat! LMFAO Yes, I used fuses.  

Well I am thinking the heat was just caused from excessive (very excessive ) cranking the starter trying to restart and not blow too far from the beach where my daughter and all my gear were.  I do have fuses under the dash of my boat, 20 amps ,5 I believe.  However, the engine must come out.  I checked compression today and had none on the 1st cylinder I tested.  Thinking this may have been the same crap I had before with different cylinders and valves not closing completely I pulled the valve cover and removed the rockers from that clyinder, retested, no compression  From What I can see and feel thru the plug hole the piston may be OK,  I'm guessing burnt/bent valve at min.  Also noticed the spark plug had zero gap  Something must have hit it.  I also noticed that the rocker made dents on the spring retainer, so I am guessing the valve slipped down a bit, hit the piston and bent/broke.  Hopefully its fixable... I cant afford another engine

Once I get it apart is it difficult to dial in the cam?  I just lined up the dots (on the cam and lower timing chain gear)last time I installed it?  Or is it something I need to take and have an expert do?

OK thanks, I was debating swapping the heads for some that are already set up. I noticed that LakesOnly @ High Flow Dynamics had some of the same model as me the C9VE-A  I believe.  It will depend if there is any other damage that needs attention...$$$

Cam install is lining up the dots, not sure where they need to be pointed in a Ford. You can also degree the cam instead of lining up the dots but degreeing cams is over my head.     Some manufacturers don't have the timing marks/alignment marks at 0 so that's why mechanics degree a cam when installing it. In my Chevy I lined up the dots, but it ain't running yet either.   

Maybe I'm missing something, but my cam can only be adjusted by changing it 1 link in the chain left or right of the 1 dot I lined up with the dot ont on the crank gear.  1 Link would be quite a few degrees I believe.  I put pics once I get it apart 

Here is the cause of all my troubles...  Just as I suspected from the start; Valves kissing Pistons.  Now to figure out what to do next.



This is the only real bad one.  It actually bent the valve it looks like.  The other 3 just nicked it.  Could this be from valve float due to still having the original springs.

The cam is basicly an RV cam so not at all aggressive, the pistons, dished, pushrods were stock length and original(mostly except the ones that bent and got replaced.  The only thing I can think of is maybe the machine shop milled my heads down a bunch and didnt tell me.  Or the valves were floating as I could only hear the hitting at 3000+ RPM's and under load.  I'm gonna call J P Marine tommrrow and see if Joe can look at them.  My neighbor ( a marine Mechanic) told me the pistons would be OK to still use.  He said just replace the bent valves and get the springs and rod lengths checked.  Do you agree with this, just so I don't get a bunch of stuff done that I may not need.

if it touched any of the other valves there bent no matter change them . either your pushrods are to long or you floated the valves but usaully it bends push rods not valves i would check for proper pushrod length then piston to valve clearence

If the pushrods are too long or too short they're going to move the valve the same amount of distance either way. I doubt if it's pushrod length.

I'm definately not an expert but if the valve is floating why would it do so much damage to the piston? It seems (maybe?) that if they were floating they might hit the piston but I wouldn't think it would do that much damage to the piston. I could easily be wrong. Here's a thought (scary I know), since the valve springs weren't changed maybe some of them have those valve spring washer's/spacer's under them and some of the spring's don't have them? They are used to adjust the tension on the valve. If  the spring has a washer under it the spring may be collapsing before the valve is done with it's travels causing a bent pushrod, and maybe the valves that are hitting the pistons don't have a spacer?      

If you don't want to spend the cash to replace all of the valves just lapp them to check them for their straightness.

Well I decided to call the Machine Shop that did all the work on my engine and they said it may be covered by warranty.  They sold me everything on the motor except the intake and I did all the assembly.  So even though I really don't want to go back to them, I guess I will if the repairs are going to be free   Maybe I'll get real lucky and get new pistons out of the deal too

Dropped off the heads at the Machine shop for them to inspect, here is a pic of my timing chain at TDC.


I also noticed that only intake valves are hitting, and they were the ones replaced by the machine shop so...