[jagboat]

 seems a bit little compares to the block
 
 

[jagboat]

Hey Wassup

the bell adapter just got back from the miller , it fits nikel chrome as we say

[jagboat]

 it Fits even gold chrome as no ones says

[Bigblockchevy1691]

Looking good


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

[jagboat]

Thanks BBC     still a long way to the top if i want the r&r

[jagboat]

Let's try the graft


Hargh there is rejection
 
the bell is bottoming the pump

With a bit of surgery involving precise tools
the b hole is widdened

[jagboat]

In case I don't end up mechanically ok , At least I can help people

Looks ok but the spacer is too thick , Ujoint needs to come further inside pump shaft like 10mm


Respecting a 5mm minimum play as I always knew on my own myself   

But I won't save anything with my surgery it needs to go back to Dr Miller himself

Headers are going tight but ok

[jagboat]

It Left only 20mm below the oil pan ..



Btw how do I get the whole thing inline ? Does it need to ? There´s a U joint ....

Motor mounts are falling right above the stringers !!!



Btw  what kind of rubbered or not silent blocks I may use ? Does it need to be solid bolted ?
 On the pump side there is a small rubber ring around the pump nose

Thanks for help

[Flusher]

In case I don't end up mechanically ok , At least I can help people

Looks ok but the spacer is too thick , Ujoint needs to come further inside pump shaft like 10mm
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Respecting a 5mm minimum play as I always knew on my own myself   

But I won't save anything with my surgery it needs to go back to Dr Miller himself

Headers are going tight but ok

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

The most critical dimension:

You need 3.2mm to 4.8mm clearance between the end of the drive line yoke and this snap ring.

This is critical so that the pump shaft doesn't push on the crankshaft thrust bearing.  If the drive line binds up, it will destroy the engine minutes.

Measure from the bellhousing surface of the block to the flange of the crankshaft.  Add this dimension to the thickness of the flywheel or flexplate, the thickness of the PTO, and the length of the drive line.

The assembled length of your bellhousing and adapter needs to be 3.2mm to 4.8mm longer (from the snap ring) than the above sum.

It's better to have too much clearance than not enough.

[Flusher]

It Left only 20mm below the oil pan ..

(Attachment Link)

Btw how do I get the whole thing inline ? Does it need to ? There´s a U joint ....

Motor mounts are falling right above the stringers !!!

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Btw  what kind of rubbered or not silent blocks I may use ? Does it need to be solid bolted ?
 On the pump side there is a small rubber ring around the pump nose

Thanks for help

20mm is plenty.  You just don't want anything to rub when everything flexes.

It looks like you went to great lengths to draft out your adapter in CAD.  I can only assume that where it mounts to the pump is concentric with the crankshaft.

You can drop the front of the engine down a few degrees.  With fuel injection, it isn't an issue, but carburetor floats don't like excessive angle.

Mount the engine solid.  I would try to reuse the mounts from your previous engine.  Could you post up pictures of what you currently have and the sides of the engine block where the mounts bolt up?

[jagboat]

Thanks Flusher

Yes as you've teached me , I will keep 5mm of play
Unfortunatly when I've first installed the engine to determine the bell adapter lenght , I didn't noticed that the Ujoint adapter was not sat properly tight on the flywheel , I had to mill the midle so the crank protrude into it
Now the adapter is too long but I can mill it -10mm on the bell side

Yes concentric Ujoint/ pump shaft , this would be an issue I guess
i've drawn the adapter using the center hole in the bell as a base , assuming it was the center of the crank / gearbox
Looks like I'm not far ,  I can rotate the engine by hand (no sparkplugs !) seems very smooth from damper to impeller , even put a bit of starter on so this lived for the first time ever !! Electricaly ok ...
I will set the engine mounts so the bell adapter sit well flat on the pump

Solid motor mounts Ok , well this is bolted on a wood stringer so there is the vibes absorbtion

Other thing is I wanted to dismantle the end bowl of the pump to check the bearing & seals
Ex owner told me the pump was rebuilt , impeler looks new , but as It is accessible right now , a bit of look won't hurt
I´ve unbolt all the screws all around but how do you pull out the bowl , it is so hard to move !

Thanks again

[Flusher]

I´ve unbolt all the screws all around but how do you pull out the bowl , it is so hard to move !

Thanks again

Install two longer bolts, 180-degrees apart and located where you can motivate them with a hammer.  Use a piece of bar stock or a long drift punch to get away from your work and beat everything up.

The longer bolts ensure that you have good thread engagement so you don't damage the threads in the bowl.  Longer so the bowl has room to move before the head bottoms out.  Lightly tap each bolt so that the bowl comes off evenly and doesn't get sideways on you.

Don't use a 3/4 drive impact reinstall the impeller nut.  Put anti-seize on everything.

[GT Jets]

Install two longer bolts, 180-degrees apart and located where you can motivate them with a hammer.  Use a piece of bar stock or a long drift punch to get away from your work and beat everything up.

The longer bolts ensure that you have good thread engagement so you don't damage the threads in the bowl.  Longer so the bowl has room to move before the head bottoms out.  Lightly tap each bolt so that the bowl comes off evenly and doesn't get sideways on you.

Don't use a 3/4 drive impact reinstall the impeller nut.  Put anti-seize on everything.

Good stuff....

GT

Sent from my SM-G900V using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app

[jagboat]

Thanks    seems that needs a fight like in a bad footbowl match

[jagboat]

Did a bit of make up



Blakson all over

[jagboat]

Got the bell plate back

[jagboat]

& since it will be a jag boat
Baaa it needs jag seats as well

Out of a XJ6 1978 , same year ! , no mistake

Or just a lil on the back seats , head rest off & some better arrangement , this won't be plug & play

[mattson]

Good luck. Send more pics

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[jagboat]

Thanks Mattson 

[jagboat]

Hi I've been thinking how to built the motor mounts & i end up With a wierd shovel pie
 

This is going ok for a reconversion job

[jagboat]

It would need a slice of something inbetween
Like a teflon or a polyurethan pad
May work against bad vibes



All will be bolted together taking the stringer in sandwich , to end with the kitchen bazar

 Some bell mounts are in the R&D schedule as well , so the engine will have 4 mounts & the pump clamp

[Flusher]

I seriously think that is way too light!!!

Solid mount it with a minimum of three 10mm through-bolts and backing plates or stringer washers per side.

Your original mounts are most likely made out 6.4mm (1/4") mild steel.

[jagboat]

Yes seems a bit thin in pic but made of 3mm stainless
It will bolted by 3x10mm on stringers & those 4x10 on the block  each sides
& 2 more mounts on the bell with 3x10mm on the bell & 3x10mm on the stringer  each sides
We are talking 26 x 10mm to hold the thing !!
Stock XKR mounts are very light aluminium with 1x10mm bolt on the silent block
Stock glastron are 3mm steel badly shaped for the cast 350kg Ford compares to the alu 200kg Jag
Doesn't afraid me that much
And since it is solid mounted I'd rather see a rifted mount than a rifted block ?

[jagboat]