seems a bit little compares to the block
 
 

 it Fits even gold chrome as no ones says

Thanks BBC     still a long way to the top if i want the r&r

In case I don't end up mechanically ok , At least I can help people

Looks ok but the spacer is too thick , Ujoint needs to come further inside pump shaft like 10mm


Respecting a 5mm minimum play as I always knew on my own myself   

But I won't save anything with my surgery it needs to go back to Dr Miller himself

Headers are going tight but ok

In case I don't end up mechanically ok , At least I can help people

Looks ok but the spacer is too thick , Ujoint needs to come further inside pump shaft like 10mm
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Respecting a 5mm minimum play as I always knew on my own myself   

But I won't save anything with my surgery it needs to go back to Dr Miller himself

Headers are going tight but ok

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

The most critical dimension:

You need 3.2mm to 4.8mm clearance between the end of the drive line yoke and this snap ring.

This is critical so that the pump shaft doesn't push on the crankshaft thrust bearing.  If the drive line binds up, it will destroy the engine minutes.

Measure from the bellhousing surface of the block to the flange of the crankshaft.  Add this dimension to the thickness of the flywheel or flexplate, the thickness of the PTO, and the length of the drive line.

The assembled length of your bellhousing and adapter needs to be 3.2mm to 4.8mm longer (from the snap ring) than the above sum.

It's better to have too much clearance than not enough.

Thanks Flusher

Yes as you've teached me , I will keep 5mm of play
Unfortunatly when I've first installed the engine to determine the bell adapter lenght , I didn't noticed that the Ujoint adapter was not sat properly tight on the flywheel , I had to mill the midle so the crank protrude into it
Now the adapter is too long but I can mill it -10mm on the bell side

Yes concentric Ujoint/ pump shaft , this would be an issue I guess
i've drawn the adapter using the center hole in the bell as a base , assuming it was the center of the crank / gearbox
Looks like I'm not far ,  I can rotate the engine by hand (no sparkplugs !) seems very smooth from damper to impeller , even put a bit of starter on so this lived for the first time ever !! Electricaly ok ...
I will set the engine mounts so the bell adapter sit well flat on the pump

Solid motor mounts Ok , well this is bolted on a wood stringer so there is the vibes absorbtion

Other thing is I wanted to dismantle the end bowl of the pump to check the bearing & seals
Ex owner told me the pump was rebuilt , impeler looks new , but as It is accessible right now , a bit of look won't hurt
I´ve unbolt all the screws all around but how do you pull out the bowl , it is so hard to move !

Thanks again

Install two longer bolts, 180-degrees apart and located where you can motivate them with a hammer.  Use a piece of bar stock or a long drift punch to get away from your work and beat everything up.

The longer bolts ensure that you have good thread engagement so you don't damage the threads in the bowl.  Longer so the bowl has room to move before the head bottoms out.  Lightly tap each bolt so that the bowl comes off evenly and doesn't get sideways on you.

Don't use a 3/4 drive impact reinstall the impeller nut.  Put anti-seize on everything.

Good stuff....

GT

Sent from my SM-G900V using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app

Did a bit of make up



Blakson all over

& since it will be a jag boat
Baaa it needs jag seats as well

Out of a XJ6 1978 , same year ! , no mistake

Or just a lil on the back seats , head rest off & some better arrangement , this won't be plug & play

Thanks Mattson 

It would need a slice of something inbetween
Like a teflon or a polyurethan pad
May work against bad vibes



All will be bolted together taking the stringer in sandwich , to end with the kitchen bazar

 Some bell mounts are in the R&D schedule as well , so the engine will have 4 mounts & the pump clamp

Yes seems a bit thin in pic but made of 3mm stainless
It will bolted by 3x10mm on stringers & those 4x10 on the block  each sides
& 2 more mounts on the bell with 3x10mm on the bell & 3x10mm on the stringer  each sides
We are talking 26 x 10mm to hold the thing !!
Stock XKR mounts are very light aluminium with 1x10mm bolt on the silent block
Stock glastron are 3mm steel badly shaped for the cast 350kg Ford compares to the alu 200kg Jag
Doesn't afraid me that much
And since it is solid mounted I'd rather see a rifted mount than a rifted block ?